Rust Driver

[jimbob]

I found a hand drawn layout for an original online somewhere but it does not show the switch for normal/bright/warm. Does anyone have this info?? Also..what are the diodes used?

[jimma]

The switch switches caps in parallel with the diodes. I believe it's 1.2n (normal), bright (no cap), 2.7n (warm).  IMO through a clean Fendery amp the 1.2n cap worked best for me, so I might just hardwire that in there and forgo the switch. It IS always fun to play around with cap values , though.

The schem I saw showed 1SS119 diodes. I found some on ebay for my build (they were a little expensive, though, but I didn't shop around).

[Fuzz Aldryn]

You see the 1200pF cap? That's the whole trick. The switch selects between 1nF(normal)/0nF(bright)/2,7 or 3,3nF(warm) in that position. Imho, the switch is pretty useless, as only the normal setting sounds great. Convice yourself and do some search on youtube. I know thers's a video where someone shows the difference between the 3 settings. The diodes ar 1SS119 japan gerneral purpose diodes which can be easily subed by 1N4148 or 1N914. Be sure to match them to the same forward voltage. If you do this everything should be fine.

Regards
Helge

[Renegadrian]

I saw that video, basically the warm position just sucks 

[Fuzz Aldryn]

I saw that video, basically the warm position just sucks 

Yeah, I totaly agree with you. Can't imagine there's any use for it.
Nota bene: The cap should be a styroflex with 1200pF, which is somekind of hard to get your hands on. In mine I use a 1500pF styroflex instead of 1200pF as it is a more common value for caps. It works, sounds good, but it should sound even more like the original if a 1200pF cap is used.

Regards
Helge