mid-fi clai(not) schematic!

[edd101]

hi guys!

what value LDR is better to be used?

Ed

[bluesdevil]

I think you need a LDR with an on resistance of 5k or under and off resistance of at least 500k.

[edd101]

 
the local shop can only sell:
LDR 77k..340k@10lux
LDR 1k5..5k@10lux

I'm quite lost!!!! or maybe VTL5C4 will do the job?? anyone who built this what part he used!! plz!!

thnx anyway,

Ed

[doc_drop]

Mine worked with either a VTL5C4 or a VTL5C2. Give it a socket so you can try "before you buy".

[MikeH]

I noticed there wasn't a pcb layout anywhere for this, so I worked one up.  Not the most compact thing I've ever done, but it should get the job done, and the lead spacing should make all of the components sit nicely.

I haven't built this yet.  So it is unverified; please let me know if you build it!  I hope to get to it in the next couple weeks.




Enjoy!

[dr.benway]

Does the distance between the ldr and the led make any difference in sound ?

[frequencycentral]

Does the distance between the ldr and the led make any difference in sound ?

Not really, I usually make up LDR/LED optocouplers with the two devices actually touching. But a few millimetres won't hurt. You do need go shielding from external light sources though, or the LDR will be 'always on'.

[dr.benway]

thanks for your help rick.
I think I'll try the cubed version soon.

[frequencycentral]

thanks for your help rick.
I think I'll try the cubed version soon.

Cool, did you get your Clari(not) working?

[dr.benway]

yeah got it working once I realized I'd forgotten to solder the output of the LM385 to the 10uF cap.
would like to be able to control the amount of fuzz in the signal whence my desire to build the cubed version.

[frequencycentral]

yeah got it working once I realized I'd forgotten to solder the output of the LM385 to the 10uF cap.

Ah, good old analogue-human-error-mojo!

would like to be able to control the amount of fuzz in the signal whence my desire to build the cubed version.

If you build the cubed version try a pot between pins 1 and 8, it should vary the amount of fuzz, not sure what value, maybe try 100K. I used a submini toggle just to break the connection, as I had no room in my enclosure for another pot.

[dr.benway]

yeah hours of analogue human error mojo staring at the board...John Cage would've dug it.

so, I began by breaking the jumper between 1 and 8 and putting a 100k resistor at the input just to see what the sound was like.
Seems like the gain is important though to get that slipping and sliding madness (I think that's what both you and Doug Deeper mentioned).

[frequencycentral]

yeah hours of analogue human error mojo staring at the board...John Cage would've dug it.

so, I began by breaking the jumper between 1 and 8 and putting a 100k resistor at the input just to see what the sound was like.
Seems like the gain is important though to get that slipping and sliding madness (I think that's what both you and Doug Deeper mentioned).

Yup, you lose the envelope when you go clean. However, that's not the case with the Cubed version, ie the LFO works the same clean or fuzzed!

[dr.benway]

Ok I got my LFO module together on a separate board. Can I solder the 9v wire to the 9v point on the other board ? Does it really matter where it goes as long as it's getting power ?
I'm not getting anything from the module. Everything seems wired right, but the Led's not doing anything.
some more questions :
do I remove the wire from C13 (10uF) on the stock layout ?
does lug 1 on the speed pot go need to go anywhere ?

after breaking the jumper on pins 1 and 8 of the LM386 I can remove the cap and resistor to ground ?

[frequencycentral]

What layout did you use for the LFO? Just to be clear, the LED anode should now go to the output of the LFO (via R8) instead of being fed by the 386 via C13. The key here is probably R8 in my Clari(not) Cubed layout, I used a 100K because my LED was ultra bright. Depending on your LED you could use a lower value or remove that resistor altogether. The way I did it was to hook up my (built) Clari to the LFO which was on the breadboard, I changed a few resistor values until I found the right one. I suspect that your LED might need a much lower resistor, as its not lighting up at all. Try a 100K trimpot in place of R8 and tweak it until you get something useable.

I'm pretty sure the LFO on the Cubed layout is correct, though I used the tiny daughter board layout posted earlier in the thread. It would be worth checking whatever layout you used against the LFO schematic.

Yup you can link the 9 volt to anywhere that's 9 volt on the main board.

There is no need for C13 if you are converting your Clari(not) permanently to the Cubed version.

You only need to wire the Speed pot as a variable resistor, so lug 1 doesn't need to go anywhere.

You can remove the cap and resistor from pin 8, or just leave them there, they won't do any harm. I left mine in place because I used a switch between pins 1 and 8 for fuzz/clean.

Good luck, report back!

[frequencycentral]

just a little fyi!
the name of this pedal is very close to the word "clarinet".
clarinot....as in, its is not a clarinet!

Doug - I still don't get it??? It's (not) a saxophone either. And it's (not) a xylophone. And it's (not) a cello. And it's (not) a banjo. And it's (not) a sitar. And it's (not) a ukelale!

[doug deeper]

not a clarinet = clarinot
clair-ah-not
not clarey not.

[doc_drop]

I call mine "DROP-L-Ganger" because all my pedals must have DROP in their name, and this circuit makes a twisted twin of the original sound...

[frequencycentral]

not a clarinet = clarinot
clair-ah-not
not clarey not.

Nope, still don't get it. But I can be exceptionally slow on the uptake sometimes. 

I call mine "DROP-L-Ganger" because all my pedals must have DROP in their name, and this circuit makes a twisted twin of the original sound...

Did you build a Cubed version then Chris? How are you liking it?

[doc_drop]

No Rick. I got side tracked making some "utility" circuits. I built a Whisker Biscuit fuzz and put it in a box with a Prof. Tweed. And I built a Tonemender that I put in a box with a Condor cab sim. Basically I am trying to get as good a sound out of my Ruby-ish bench amp as I can. The Tonemender/Condor combo is working great for that purpose. (I have to post some pics, since I used your projector film technique to finish all of these, and I feel like I am really getting the hang of it.)

Now I am ready to go on a chorus quest. I am planning on doing a Zombie Chorus this weekend...so I am not sure when I will be "cubing my 'not." But I want to real soon, so it is high up on my list. Plus I want to try having a pot controlling fuzz amount. But for now it is only in my head.