mid-fi clai(not) schematic!

[kristoffereide]

Make sure the 78L05 is the correct way. Mine was like this as well, but the layout doesn't comply with the '05s I have. When I flipped it, the whole thing lit up (more then before )

Also, if you use the non-cubed layout you might have to flip the LED as well. If you're as stupid as I am it looks like the + is connected to ground, which it of course is not...

[thereverend]

Make sure the 78L05 is the correct way. Mine was like this as well, but the layout doesn't comply with the '05s I have. When I flipped it, the whole thing lit up (more then before )

Also, if you use the non-cubed layout you might have to flip the LED as well. If you're as stupid as I am it looks like the + is connected to ground, which it of course is not...

just tried turning the 78L05 around and now i get fuzz along with this sound i can only describe as uncontrollable flatulence, basically a whole bunch of farty noises. led still not lighting up but i'm pretty sure it's in the right way. i read somewhere else in the thread that the 78L05 placed the wrong way could potentially fry the pt2399 so i'm hoping that hasnt happened. first things first, gonna go over all my soldering to make sure i didnt miss something.

[kristoffereide]

make sure your OBW is ok. Mine wasn't and I got very strange laser-guns-sounds from it. I had not grounded everything ok

[thereverend]

make sure your OBW is ok. Mine wasn't and I got very strange laser-guns-sounds from it. I had not grounded everything ok

obw? i'm not good with acronyms.

[frequencycentral]

Off Board Wiring

[Ben N]

Not Order of the Bed Wetters? Oscillating Burnt Weenies? Out of Bounds Wacko??

[frequencycentral]

Not Order of the Bed Wetters? Oscillating Burnt Weenies? Out of Bounds Wacko??

I actually thought OBW was a cricketing term (cricket: obscure english game), but that's LBW - Leg Before Wicket. So OBW could be Orifice Before Wicket? But I'm guessing Off Board Wiring is the correct interpretation in this case.

[kristoffereide]

yes you got it right, however; how funny would it not be if I ment "make sure your order of bed wetters is ok, mine wasn't" hehehe

[thedefog]

What layout did you use for the LFO? Just to be clear, the LED anode should now go to the output of the LFO (via R8) instead of being fed by the 386 via C13. The key here is probably R8 in my Clari(not) Cubed layout, I used a 100K because my LED was ultra bright. Depending on your LED you could use a lower value or remove that resistor altogether. The way I did it was to hook up my (built) Clari to the LFO which was on the breadboard, I changed a few resistor values until I found the right one. I suspect that your LED might need a much lower resistor, as its not lighting up at all. Try a 100K trimpot in place of R8 and tweak it until you get something useable.

I'm pretty sure the LFO on the Cubed layout is correct, though I used the tiny daughter board layout posted earlier in the thread. It would be worth checking whatever layout you used against the LFO schematic.

Yup you can link the 9 volt to anywhere that's 9 volt on the main board.

There is no need for C13 if you are converting your Clari(not) permanently to the Cubed version.

You only need to wire the Speed pot as a variable resistor, so lug 1 doesn't need to go anywhere.

You can remove the cap and resistor from pin 8, or just leave them there, they won't do any harm. I left mine in place because I used a switch between pins 1 and 8 for fuzz/clean.

Good luck, report back!

I found that for standard Red LEDS that a resistor value between 20k-60k worked best. The 100k should only be used for the ultra bright ones like mentioned above. However, I noticed that if the resistor value was too low, the LED was not off for a long enough period of time for the oscillation to sound "right" to me. A 100k trimmer might be a good idea in place of R8.

[newperson]

did anyone ever build the MikeH layout one page 6?  did it work okay if so?
thanks,

[MikeH]

did anyone ever build the MikeH layout one page 6?  did it work okay if so?
thanks,

I built it successfully using that layout with one correction.  I forgot to connect pins 1 and 8 of the 386.  So you just have to connect them with a sharpie before you etch, or in ms paint or something before you print it out.  I  believe it's fine other than that.  Some of the controls might be labeled backwards too- I forget.  Sorry.

[newperson]

thank you for the reply,

[dr.benway]

Is there a wiring layout anywhere that shows how to have the best of both worlds in one box : the original clari(not) and ricks cubed version ?

[frequencycentral]

Is there a wiring layout anywhere that shows how to have the best of both worlds in one box : the original clari(not) and ricks cubed version ?

edd101 should be the man for that. I converted my stock Clari, disabling the envelope part in the process. edd101's is the only one I've seen with both options. C'mon edd101, post your wiring layout!

Hi!

At last...I've completed my long lasting build - Clari(NOT). I've combined the stock Clari(NOT) with Ricks LFO mod so it is possible to switch between them This pedal is very cool !!!

Thanks everybody

Ed

[Skruffyhound]

I can confirm that the 78L05 is the wrong way around on the perf layout, at least according to the datasheet I have. I did check it before start up but I built most of it in one blast and brain tired must have turned it the wrong round in my head. It didn't sound quite as I was expecting it to, but it fired straight up so I just got to knob twiddling for a while, but with increasing suspicion, until 15 minutes in, the PT2399 died screaming. Interesting, now I know what that sounds like. Thanks TAYDA I have another 19 chips to throw at it  

[frequencycentral]

Ah yeah, I did my layout for a 7805 which I had handy at the time, which has the opposite pinout to a 78L05. I should put a note on the layout..............

[Skruffyhound]

No problem, I should have checked it better myself, there were notes about it all through the second half of the thread. Good with a note on the schem though.

[frequencycentral]

No problem, I should have checked it better myself, there were notes about it all through the second half of the thread. Good with a note on the schem though.

I've added notes to my layouts now.

[Skruffyhound]

Flipped the regulator, after checking its output out of the circuit(just in case) , felt I had a lot of noise and was not very happy. Changed the, PT2399, changed it for another. Changed the Opamps eventually with some success. But this is still quite a noisy little circuit. After an evening of tweaking I feel I have found some useful settings, but I'm interested if something is still creating more than usual noise. Hiss is one thing, but I have something akin to static little pops on heavier settings (without fuzz)
Can someone tell me if this is normal or do I have to look further.
I am very happy with some of the settings I've found, and I know that there is not much filtering involved here, so if this is how it is then I'm not complaining because there are definitely a lot usable sounds and its very tweakable and sensitive to rolling back volume on the guitar and amp. But I would like to know what others who built the Clari cubed experienced.
I have an almost completely stock circuit except the Blend pot which is 25K instead of 27K. My pots are on the board so not a lot of wire around and I made a super clean build for this one. Any comments appreciated 

[edd101]

hello there,

When I first built my Clari, it was the original one. Some time later Rick made this wonderful mod and I added it to my existing Clari. I use this box all the time and 90% the LFO mod the stock Clari isn't that interesting!

well, the wiring is very simple! sorry for my poor schem i`m not realy good at it   hope it helps you

PS. Rick, thnx once again for the beautiful mod