MN3007 ADA Flanger Clone Questions

[StephenGiles]

I would love to see someone pull off the TZF mod but adding an extra delay line is not something I really know how to do. I think the foxrox does it by delaying the dry signal by a few ms so the other delay line can pass it in the sweep.

http://www.4shared.com/file/101817424/1b5f22c4/TZ-5.html
http://www.4shared.com/file/101817422/f23c87f1/TZ-6.html

These are Mike Irwin's TZF samples from the unit he designed using just one BBD and who knows what else.

Is that Sarah Mclachlan in TZ-6?

[puretube]

Some questions get/got answered in the "For Sale"-thread, too...





BTW.: cool samples there, Stephen/Mike! 

[fpaul]

Does anyone know if I can use the 1024 chip with the new board (without frying my brain)?  The building notes start off with a no modification section; does this mean using the 1024?     

[moosapotamus]

The newer boards are designed to use MN3007, not SAD1024. "No modifications" means just that. If you want to try to use a SAD1024 on the newer board, you would have to "modify" it. It's been done the other way around... Used a MN3007 on the old (SAD1024) board. That's how oldschoolanalog came up with the MN3007 retrofit in the first place. So I'm sure you could do it. Just  leave out the MN3007 and its associated components and build a little daughterboard for the SAD1024 and its associated components.

~ Charlie

[oldschoolanalog]

A/DA clone w/SAD1024 info:
http://moosapotamus.net/IDEAS/ADAflanger/ADAflanger.html
A/DA clone w/3007 info:
http://moosapotamus.net/IDEAS/ADAflanger/ADA_MN3007/ADAflanger_MN3007.html

Trust me. You don't want to "modify" this back to an SAD1024.

Save those valuable and near impossible to get SAD1024's for repairs...

Peace.

[Stratman]

A/DA clone w/SAD1024 info:
http://moosapotamus.net/IDEAS/ADAflanger/ADAflanger.html
A/DA clone w/3007 info:
http://moosapotamus.net/IDEAS/ADAflanger/ADA_MN3007/ADAflanger_MN3007.html

Trust me. You don't want to "modify" this back to an SAD1024.

Save those valuable and near impossible to get SAD1024's for repairs...

Peace.

Hello oldschoolanalog.

I was wondering if a diagram to convert the old Moosapotomus ADA Flanger to MN3007 is available? Or if you might make one available I'd much rather do as you say, and leave SAD1024's to those who really need them It'd certainly be appreciated by at least one crazy lurker....

Stratman

[mark]

+1

[oldschoolanalog]

Some photos of the first 3007 retrofit board. Installed in a Moose Rev1 board.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/oldschoolanalog/DSC00898.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/oldschoolanalog/DSC00900.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/oldschoolanalog/DSC00901.jpg
Making a nicer layout than I did should be no problem. Print copies of the 1024 version & the 3007 version.
Compare. It should be pretty obvious where In/Out/Clocks/Vdd/Vgg & Ground get connected to the old circuit.
Also, try Bajaman's suggestion and install a 22K resistor in series w/the .1uf cap at the output of the retrofit board.
And, please remember to double the low/high clock f's.
Let me know what you think. I'll dig up my notes if necessary.
All the Best,
Dave

[Stratman]

Some photos of the first 3007 retrofit board. Installed in a Moose Rev1 board.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/oldschoolanalog/DSC00898.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/oldschoolanalog/DSC00900.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/oldschoolanalog/DSC00901.jpg
Making a nicer layout than I did should be no problem. Print copies of the 1024 version & the 3007 version.
Compare. It should be pretty obvious where In/Out/Clocks/Vdd/Vgg & Ground get connected to the old circuit.
Also, try Bajaman's suggestion and install a 22K resistor in series w/the .1uf cap at the output of the retrofit board.
And, please remember to double the low/high clock f's.
Let me know what you think. I'll dig up my notes if necessary.
All the Best,
Dave

Hello oldschoolanalog. I'll have a go at laying this out to start with. I wont be able to test it for a while, still a few parts for this one I need to get. I'll have a go at figuring out the connections and post something here later Thanks for posting the pics, I think they're very helpful

Stratman

[Thomeeque]

 Hello guys!

May I ask:

• What is the highest clock (shortest delay time) your MN3007 based ADA clones achieve?
• How does clock signal on the scope look at this frequency? Are there still proper rectangles or are they already significantly triangularized?

Thanks, T.

(in both questions I refer to the outputs of 4049 buffer)

Edit: Does it differ for MN3207?

[fpaul]

Finished mine a couple of days ago.  No sound at all until I adjusted tr1.  Then I set the frequency by ear and it sounded about like my ce-2 clone.  Nice but not what I was looking for, since I already had the ce-2.  Apparently my ears aren't calibrated for high frequency like some peoples, plus I didn't really know what to listen for.   

Yesterday I borrowed a dmm with frequency counter and set the range.  That caused some distortion so I tweaked tr1.  After a few minutes the JET PLANE arrived!  This thing is great!  Now just have to box it up.  I've never used a scope but have access to one at work.  Eventually I'll scope it out but I'm afraid to change anything until I wear it out a little.

Many thanks to Moosapotamus, Old School, and Bajaman!

[RonaldB]

Hi,
I have a problem with the clock frequency. I can't dial in 69kHz (min) and 2.6mHz (max).
The frequencys (measured add the TP pin on the 4047) are 35kHz and 1550kHz.
And not to meantioned the trim pots are maxed. And i replaced the 82K resistor with a 150K as meantioned by Bajaman.

I used the vero layout.

i hope someone can give me some pointers, the circuit works and sounds like a chorus now but not a flanger.
Ronald

[StephenGiles]

Try reducing the clock capacitor, or better stil replace it with a variable capacitor. I think I used a 10-65p.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=460

[RonaldB]

Thanks, 
i will try that and come back with the results.

Ronald

[quarara]

Hi,
I have a question (an easy one indeed) regarding the odd/even switch.
I don't understand when the switch is in odd mode or when it is in even harmonics mode. I think that the harmonics are in odd mode when the two wires of the switch are linked, is it correct?

EDIT: Oh, I have another question, but it is more a survey on the tastes of those who've built this unit. Do you suggest me to use a 10k pot or a 100k one for threshold? Baja suggested a 100k one, that's why I'm asking.

[quarara]

Hi guys, I do need your help. I finished the flanger the other day and it worked like a charm. Now I've put it into a box and you can hear flanger strong and clever, but I have noises issues I have a fast squelchy sound that sometimes occurs. I wouldn't say it is related with LFO, but sometimes when I rotate the pots I can hear the noise a little bit stronger. I don't know what to think. I tried removing the led without result.
I calibrated it properly with a frequency meter and a scope and I've used cathexis layout and a charge pump with lt1054 (I used a cap between legs 2 and 7 of the chip to boost the frequency of it above the audio path).

You're my only hope!

[quarara]

I measured the voltages of my board and I noticed that instead of fixed +15V I have a floating voltages from +12,7V to +13,8V.
I tested my charge pump and it gave me +20,7V! I cannot believe it, yesterday it gave me +18,4V! I did another board (just a couple of components) and the new charge pump gives me +20,7V too! Honestly I don't know what to think... Tomorrow I'll try changing tha 15V regulator on the main board. It's really strange to see this floating voltage (I don't find out any other ways to call it) on my dmm. I don't think the regulator will be the issue. since the 7815 it's very sturdy. If you have any hypothesis, please tell me.

[oldschoolanalog]

Hi Luigi,
Please try this first. Before you do any parts changing.
Remove the charge pump from the circuit. Now use a proper, known working 18-24VDC power supply. You can even use batteries if necessary. Test to make sure all your V+,  V bias & Grounds are correct. Now; plug in your guitar, bass or whatever signal source you will be using.
Power up & play.
Listen carefully and see if your issues still persist.
Report findings.
I know this sounds simplistic, but sometimes it's best to start over at the beginning and proceed slowly again.
Best of Luck!
Dave

[quarara]

Hi Dave,
thanks for your suggestion, I've used two batteries in series to power up my flanger and the voltages are good and stable, so the regulator is alive and kicking I've played with the effect and I haven't noticed any appreciable bad noise. So I think that the problem lies in the power supply circuit... I think I have to choices now. The first one is the easiest and the most expensive: buy a +18v psu. The second one is to try again with a charge pump circuit. Dave, what do you suggest me to do? And... is there anyone else who tried to use a charge pump in this circuit? If so, please, chime in!

[StephenGiles]

Personally I think charge pumps are a waste of time. Get a decent power supply.