MN3007 ADA Flanger Clone Questions

[moosapotamus]

Your issue with the narrow sweep range sounds very similar to RonaldB (see above). Sure you have the CV input jack wired correctly?

Also, is it possible to post an audio clip of what that sweep/blip sounds like?

~ Charlie

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Dont know if this STILL applies but, just in case it may help....

From my formative days of building this sweet pedal 

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=74367.msg833788#msg833788

[Valoosj]

I'm back at my A/DA in a 1590B project (after 2 years or so of silence  )

At the moment I have thrown away my previous layout and started again. This time I want to avoid as much as wiring as I can.
To prevent LFO bleed in the audio, I am again making two separate boards. But this raises a few questions.

In the Jan 2010 schematic, audio and LFO use the same quad opamp. I am not. Roughly halfway (horizontally) in the schematic I cut it in half. Leaving IC1, IC2c, IC2b, IC3a, IC3b and MN3007 in my audio segment. I have combined IC2c, IC2b, IC3a and IC3b into one LM324, relabelling the pins of IC2b to 12, 13 and 14. My main issue now is: what do I do with pin 4 of this quad? I see some similarities (47R to V+ and 22uF to GND) but no clear "that's what I have to do".

Having to sort this out in the audio section, I assume I will have to do something similar in the LFO section then as well at IC2a and IC3c, or can I just leave that parts as is on the schematic?

Or is what I am doing not possible and do I have to keep the ICs as they were?

Thanks in advance  

Edit: Audio board is done, except for pin 4 ...   (And tidying up the traces)
I also need to calculate if I can use 1/8W resistors everywhere. Everything higher than 5K6 should be fine, but the smaller ones I'll need to have a look at.

[Valoosj]

Allow me to visualise my intentions:



First I divided the schematic in an audio section and an LFO section. (indicated with the red line).
Then I went on with the following adaptations.
A: remove this connection between the center of the diodes and pin 7. (Noticed this mistake is still in the schematic  )
B and C: these dotted lines will be wires running between the 2 boards.
D: Combine IC2a, IC2d, IC3c and IC3d in a quad (LM324). Remove R62 and C26, connect pin 4 to R6.
E: Combine IC2b, IC2c, IC3a and IC3b in a quad (LM324). Connect pin 4 to R62 and C26. 

Now my question to you: is what I am doing in D and E correct? Or should I do this differently?

[Fender3D]

Point D will lead to no issues..
Since IC3a's gain is really huge, signal might bleed into other op-amp on the same chip...
I'd suggest 2 duals on point E...

[moosapotamus]

I agree with Fender3D...
D: should be fine.
E: 2 duals would be a safe bet. But, in the original layout, the quad IC3 has one of its opamps going into the clock section. If the high gain in IC3a wasn't an issue there, it might also be a safe bet that sticking with a quad and switching them around as you are suggesting won't be an issue either.

~ Charlie

[Valoosj]

And what I am doing with the 47R resistor and 22uF cap is also not an issue? They just supply and filter power, but there are new connections made by me which I was concerned about.
I'll see if I can squeeze 2 duals in the place of the one quad I have now. It will be quite tight 

Thanks guys!

[Scruffie]

I'm sure this has been asked or is written somewhere but what are the Dimensions of the PCB?

Just wondering if the Moosapotamus board will fit in a 1590XX Enclosure... might be a bit shallow with the board mounted pots though.

How you getting on Valoosj?

[armdnrdy]

Just wondering if the Moosapotamus board will fit in a 1590XX Enclosure...

Scruffie,

This one fit inside of a 125BB!





Off board pot wiring and a double sided board.

[moosapotamus]

@Scruffie - My flanger boards are 3.5" x 5.5", and the mounting holes for the pots are 0.45" in from the top edge.

I build it in a 1590DD, but I lay out the enclosure vertically (instead of horizontally) and do not use board mounted pots.

~ Charlie

[Valoosj]

How you getting on Valoosj?

Right now I've got Rick's Causality 6 on my breadboard. Once I am pleased with that one, I'll get back to this flanger to make sure that my adaptations are good to go.
Then it's off to the fab company to make me some PCBs. The layout in itself is done, just need to doublecheck on the breadboard ...

[Scruffie]

@Scruffie - My flanger boards are 3.5" x 5.5", and the mounting holes for the pots are 0.45" in from the top edge.

I build it in a 1590DD, but I lay out the enclosure vertically (instead of horizontally) and do not use board mounted pots.

~ Charlie

Drats, too close for comfort for the XX size.

Yeah I used 16mm Right Angle Board Mount Alphas, mounted to the bottom of the board and bent the legs out to fit the mounting pads (speaking of, on future boards it might make more sense to space the pads for the 16mm Alphas Smallbear sell, just a suggestion) they poke out over the top of the board a bit and being on the back increase the height a bit so it'll probably need to be a D for the depth and be horizontal.

How you getting on Valoosj?

Right now I've got Rick's Causality 6 on my breadboard. Once I am pleased with that one, I'll get back to this flanger to make sure that my adaptations are good to go.
Then it's off to the fab company to make me some PCBs. The layout in itself is done, just need to doublecheck on the breadboard ...

Sweet! Looking forward to seeing how that pans out.

Just wondering if the Moosapotamus board will fit in a 1590XX Enclosure...

Scruffie,

This one fit inside of a 125BB!

Off board pot wiring and a double sided board.

Show off 

[armdnrdy]

Show off 

It was actually an offer for the files of a smaller version of a great flanger. 

[Scruffie]

Show off 

It was actually an offer for the files of a smaller version of a great flanger. 

Haha, I was only joking 

Ahhh, no SAD1024 sadly and I have a board built up already 

Cheers though.

[armdnrdy]

Show off 

It was actually an offer for the files of a smaller version of a great flanger. 

Haha, I was only joking 

Ahhh, no SAD1024 sadly and I have a board built up already 



Cheers though.

If you want it...I have the 3007 version as well...same size. 

[moosapotamus]

Yeah I used 16mm Right Angle Board Mount Alphas, mounted to the bottom of the board and bent the legs out to fit the mounting pads (speaking of, on future boards it might make more sense to space the pads for the 16mm Alphas Smallbear sell, just a suggestion) they poke out over the top of the board a bit and being on the back increase the height a bit so it'll probably need to be a D for the depth and be horizontal.

I know, that's a good idea. Originally, I made the pot footprints for the 24mm Alpha...
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/13/tw-700218-186266.pdf
...but maybe they could be made universal, to be able to accept either.

@Larry - did you eliminate the charge pump on that compact layout? Just use an 18VDC wallwart? Also, did you ever try anything different with the MN3007 output configuration, like we briefly discussed?

~ Charlie

[armdnrdy]

@Larry - did you eliminate the charge pump on that compact layout? Just use an 18VDC wallwart? Also, did you ever try anything different with the MN3007 output configuration, like we briefly discussed?

~ Charlie

Hey Charlie,

Yes Sir.....no charge pump and 18VDC in.

I haven't gotten around to building the 3007 or the MN3010 version yet. (parts in a box) I've been too busy working on everything else!
I sent a PM to oldschool analog asking about the BBD output trimmer and how it came about.....haven't heard back.

If you take a look at the Mutron Flanger 3007 retrofit schematic, you'll see how I implemented the balance trimmer.
A lot of Ibanez effects use the same configuration. It's basically like the two resistor (same value) set up that you see in BBD data sheets but you can zero the two BBD outputs in closer with a scope.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Dang Larry!!!

Got all excited and then saw it was a double sided board   

Would LOVE to build another one of these but, in a more compact layout/smaller box 

[armdnrdy]

Dang Larry!!!

Got all excited and then saw it was a double sided board   

Would LOVE to build another one of these but, in a more compact layout/smaller box 

GL,
It's actually not that difficult to do double sided boards!
It takes a little bit a patience.....and a little bit of trial and error.

The two sides are lined up with pins in alignment holes on the board.
You tape one side to the board, drill the alignment holes, insert the pins in the holes. Then pierce the second side at each printed alignment hole.
Iron one side on the board, then flip it and iron the next side.
Inspect your work and take measurements to check alignment.

If it's not right....you wash off the toner with acetone and try again.
I am down to two tries to get the alignment right.

Don't fear the double sided board! 

[moosapotamus]

If you take a look at the Mutron Flanger 3007 retrofit schematic, you'll see how I implemented the balance trimmer.
A lot of Ibanez effects use the same configuration. It's basically like the two resistor (same value) set up that you see in BBD data sheets but you can zero the two BBD outputs in closer with a scope.

Cool. I might try that on the ADA and see how it compares.

Thanks
~ Charlie