I need your help with a neovibe.

Zedmin_fx · February 23, 2009, 03:21:26 PM

ok I was going make a millenium but I do not have any more hydrochloric to ad to my old etchant. I found 2 3p2t trubypass switches in a bag in my closet this afternoon.

My question is do I wire it in like this?

Zedmin_fx · February 23, 2009, 04:59:22 PM

I am going to go try that and see in the mean time

kurtlives · February 23, 2009, 05:50:43 PM

Have you never wired a 3PDT bypass switch? Your LED is switching to nothing...

Go to GGG and go to the switching section in the tech pages. Look at input grounded when bypassed with LED indicator.

Zedmin_fx · February 23, 2009, 10:41:16 PM

So its gota be like this? I am sorry I forget the wireing stuff, I had a kick ass link that I went to for help but lost it. If the wireing isnt spelled out for me I have trouble with remembering the impotatn things .

yeeshkul · February 24, 2009, 01:29:54 AM

Yes, just keep on your mind that any LED has anode and cathode. Anode i connected to "+" and has longer leg than cathode. Otherwise there will be no light

. Also you have to add a right current limiting resistor, as i guess you are gonna pull more than 9V from the circuit. R>(V-1.4)/max LED current, where 1.4 is the voltage drop on the LED, which is not same for all types, so see the catalogue or measure it.

edit: Once you are willing to use 3PDT i would really recommend the way i noted in my other post.

Zedmin_fx · February 24, 2009, 08:36:36 AM

yea i didnt have the time to worry about all of that, The guy only wants a on/off led so.

Zedmin_fx · March 03, 2009, 10:35:19 AM

ok, so heres the deal, I put in the other switch and now I have nothing not a thing, the diode bridge gets f_ing hot and melts the solder holding it inplace. I have no voltage to the transistors, I have changed the tl7815 and the bridge still nothing.

I am using an 18volt dc electro hamonix adapter that works fine with my nevibe. I am upset beacuse I need to have this pedal done asap and do know no where to turn next. Today I am going to replace the transistors and put them in sockets and see what that does.

R.G. · March 03, 2009, 10:59:06 AM

Quote from: Zedmin_fx on March 03, 2009, 10:35:19 AM
ok, so heres the deal, I put in the other switch and now I have nothing not a thing, the diode bridge gets f_ing hot and melts the solder holding it inplace. I have no voltage to the transistors, I have changed the tl7815 and the bridge still nothing. I am using an 18volt dc electro hamonix adapter that works fine with my nevibe. I am upset beacuse I need to have this pedal done asap and do know no where to turn next. Today I am going to replace the transistors and put them in sockets and see what that does.

Simply replacing parts in hopes that something will suddenly start working is probably going to be futile. Worse yet, being upset blinds you and prevents you from reasoning out what may be wrong.

If your diode bridge is getting hot, it's conducting too much current. The question is where is the current going?

Since this started when you put the LED on, it's most likely that the LED wiring is hosed up somehow. If it were me, I'd unhook the wires that go to the 3PDT from power and ground from the board and try it again. If it still has problems, inspect the solder at the places where you took off the LED/ground wires. Still problems? pull out the 7815, which decouples all the audio path from the power supply, leaving only the LFO and bulb. One of these ought to prevent the bridge from getting hot, and also give you the next clue about what is wrong.

Zedmin_fx · March 03, 2009, 11:56:18 AM

led and 3p2t have been removed, so after i look at the solder pads from the led you want me to take out the 7815 and power it up to see what happens am i right at that?

R.G. · March 03, 2009, 12:39:26 PM

Better yet, leave the 7815 in and power up long enough to measure the DC voltage on the pins of the 7815. If you have voltages of over 17V on the input, zero on the ground pin and 15 on the output, you know the problem was caused by what you removed.

Zedmin_fx · March 03, 2009, 12:50:22 PM

well I tuched up some solder joints and now the bulb lights up!! Yay having a clear mind helps, now to got nodle some more

Zedmin_fx · March 03, 2009, 01:07:27 PM

allright I am back in business working fine Thank you so much RG. You cant expect things to work right if your pissed at them. My only questions are where should I pull my ground wire to the 3p2t and the 9vlts for the led?

R.G. · March 03, 2009, 02:33:26 PM

There is no 9V for the LED. There's only raw DC of 17-24V at the power supply and 15V regulated. I recommend the LED runs from the unregulated power. So you need a resistor of perhaps 18V-2V/0.01 = 1600 ohms. Use 1.8K or 2.2K and at least 1/2W. Or use two 1/4W 1K resistors. Otherwise it will get too hot.

Connect the LED and series resistors to the PCB on the trace that connects the + sides of the two 1000uF filter caps, and to the lug beside "Lug 2 Volume" in your drawing. Pad O would work. Connect ground to the lug you have labelled ground. Pad I would work. The pad references are to the drawing on GEOFEX.

Zedmin_fx · March 03, 2009, 02:38:52 PM

Ok Iwill do that,Thank you so much RG and Yeeshkul

Zedmin_fx · March 03, 2009, 04:22:29 PM

ok so I did like you said, put 2 1k resistors in series connected to the positave end of the 1000mf caps, and the other end of the resistor to my led. From the other side of the led two my stompswitch, and a ground wire to pad o. I have a strange sound like a bird chirping in time with the lfoit can be controlled wit hthe pots, and after hitting the switch nothing, the led lights up I have no sound passing thru. Also when I touch my guitar strings and the enclosure the chirpping goes away.

Zedmin_fx · March 03, 2009, 05:26:12 PM

ok, going to noodle wit hit some more

Zedmin_fx · March 04, 2009, 10:51:34 AM

are we sure the stompswitch wire diagram is fine and will work?

R.G. · March 04, 2009, 11:37:11 AM

Quote from: Zedmin_fx on March 04, 2009, 10:51:34 AM
are we sure the stompswitch wire diagram is fine and will work?

Sure - as long as the stomp switch is what we think it is; that being that there are three sections, each of which is the equivalent of an SPDT, and each of those is one vertical slice through the switch as you've drawn it, we're sure it is fine and will work.

Are we sure that the switch is in good shape, making contact to the places we think it should and when we think it should, not erratic, faulty, or having terminals with some other connection scheme? No we're not.

However, YOU are on the spot, and have the switch and a DMM, and you could set the DMM to measure resistance and verify that it does what you think it should. Just a thought.

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I need your help with a neovibe.