Charge Pump Question???

[WLS]

I have just started building boxes and finished building two foxx tone machines as my first project one for me and one for my son and was looking for another project to do. I am new to the whole electronics thing, but I am hooked so please bare with me! 

I was wanting to make something that controls a lot of the sound but without the fuzz that the (FTM) delivers and is not software driven I feel that's cheating. I use to have a wha years ago that delivered a sweet sound, but what ever happened to it I don't know? The wife says she did not through it away - Yea Right! But anyways don't get me wrong I love the way the (FTM) sounds and for a fuzz it's all I could ask for. Especially mine vs my sons, I spent the extra dime and used Orange Drops Caps in mine and they seem to deliver a more softer yet deeper tone to the fuzz, an excellent box.

For my next project I was thinking of doing JD Sleeps PT80 delay and I was looking over the parts list and seeing the approximate cost to build it at mousers. I was looking for the MAX1044 Charge Pump but mouser doesn't carry it. They do carry a TC1044SCPA http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TC1044SCPAvirtualkey57940000virtualkey579-TC1044SCPA that I think is the same thing and was wondering if any one could verify this. Where I am having trouble in my comparisons is the data sheet of that the max1044 spells out that it can double voltage the data sheet of the TC1044SCPA does not.

If any one has a suggestion on a nice box to build or if you seen my Wha 

Please feel free I am open to suggestions...

Thanks!

[frequencycentral]

It will do anything the MAX can do - go for it.

[WLS]

Just wanted to be sure.

Thanks!

[solderman]

I have just started building boxes and finished building two foxx tone machines as my first project one for me and one for my son and was looking for another project to do. I am new to the whole electronics thing, but I am hooked so please bare with me! 

I was wanting to make something that controls a lot of the sound but without the fuzz that the (FTM) delivers and is not software driven I feel that's cheating. I use to have a wha years ago that delivered a sweet sound, but what ever happened to it I don't know? The wife says she did not through it away - Yea Right! But anyways don't get me wrong I love the way the (FTM) sounds and for a fuzz it's all I could ask for. Especially mine vs my sons, I spent the extra dime and used Orange Drops Caps in mine and they seem to deliver a more softer yet deeper tone to the fuzz, an excellent box.

For my next project I was thinking of doing JD Sleeps PT80 delay and I was looking over the parts list and seeing the approximate cost to build it at mousers. I was looking for the MAX1044 Charge Pump but mouser doesn't carry it. They do carry a TC1044SCPA http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TC1044SCPAvirtualkey57940000virtualkey579-TC1044SCPA that I think is the same thing and was wondering if any one could verify this. Where I am having trouble in my comparisons is the data sheet of that the max1044 spells out that it can double voltage the data sheet of the TC1044SCPA does not.

If any one has a suggestion on a nice box to build or if you seen my Wha 

Please feel free I am open to suggestions...

Thanks!

Hi
If you happen to have 12V DC you can omit the MAX1044. and the 12V reg. The PT 80 also works with 9V although the clean headroom is smaller.

If you etch the  PCB yourself from GGG make sure to check this possible trace bridge. It took me 5h and a lot of gray hair to find it



//Solderman

[WLS]

Solderman,

I am about to get into etching... haven't yet.

I am sure that it will save me a lot of money in the long run. I tried to use those pre-drilled boards with the copper rings but too much static for one and wrapping wire is a pain in the you know what!

On my FTMs I first tried this but ended up buying the boards from GGG but like I said costly way to go about it.

As I stated I am new to this so please bare with me, what you mean about a trace bridge would be an open connection that would result in the elimination of the voltage regulator and the charge pump off GGG schematic and would need to be closed by bridging it back into the power line via jumper or what ever?

Sorry for the delay in posting back but I was looking into some PT2399 trying to get a good price and was also looking into some SAD1024 (Hard to Find)!

[chi_boy]

The pt80 works great on 18v also. Eliminate the MAX all together.  SmallBear has all the hard to get parts BTW.

[WLS]

I already ordered the parts from mouser only problem is the op-amps are on back order (I just hate that) but got everthing except for the (Heart) the PT2399. I was going to order it from china off one of those ebay outfits but I am holding back to see what is going on with the post about bad PT2399 from ebay. 

When ordering I ordered the Texes Instrument TC1044SCPA instead of trying to hunt down the MAX and it has a higher effency rating. I think the Max is 98% and It's is rated at 99% can't get much better than that.

I was going to bread board the project so that I can play with it. I'll try it with and with out the pump GGG has schematics for both ways. I was also thinking of trying a SAD1024 in it if I can find some cheap enough. I heard some impressive things about that chip, it's a shame they stop producing it.

[solderman]

Solderman,

I am about to get into etching... haven't yet.

I am sure that it will save me a lot of money in the long run. I tried to use those pre-drilled boards with the copper rings but too much static for one and wrapping wire is a pain in the you know what!

On my FTMs I first tried this but ended up buying the boards from GGG but like I said costly way to go about it.

As I stated I am new to this so please bare with me, what you mean about a trace bridge would be an open connection that would result in the elimination of the voltage regulator and the charge pump off GGG schematic and would need to be closed by bridging it back into the power line via jumper or what ever?

Sorry for the delay in posting back but I was looking into some PT2399 trying to get a good price and was also looking into some SAD1024 (Hard to Find)!

Hi

No that are two different topics

About the MAX1044.
I think you allready have that one figured out as you can see on GGG they have one layout for 18V without the MAX1044 as well. You can run it on 12V as well and then omit the 78L12 regulator only since the PT80 allways will use 12V and 5V and a 12V wallvort is easier to find and less costly then a 18V or the need for 2x9V battery. But that's more a taste thing.

About etching.
The transfer picture on GGG is to tight in the spot in the pic. When i etched my board there was a unwanted bridge at the arrow that took a long time for me to spot.
Etching your own boards is really easy. The only thing you need is a UV lamp, two bowls, access to a a laser or ink printer to print overhead paper and easy to obtain and not dangerous chemicals. I have a very short tutorial (there are many far much better then mine out there) on my site. http://solderman.fatabur.se/Tutor.htmI allways use the fotoresist (works much like developing your own photos) methos since it allways gives a perfect result and no need for ironing P-P that do not stick and have to fill in withe sharpie pen etc.  Personally, I can't understand why so many uses perf or veroboard when a home made fotoresist PCB takes 30 minits from print out to ready board and a cupper-laminate with fotoresist costs less then vero or perfboard. OK you need to do the drilling, that's a drawback. But if you just want to make a DIY effect from a verified PCB layout chances that you will succeed without to much troubleshooting is better with a etched PCB than a PERF or Vero. There is simply more chases to goof with those.

Good luck with your PT80 Its a bit costly but its worth it.

//Solderman 

[WLS]

Oh,

I see now what you're talking about with the bridge contact. It is so close that it will blead into the other line.

Nice catch! I bet that was a real b#^T%@ to find.

About Drilling boards I am looking forward to doing this because when using the Orange Drops on my FTM the lead diameters are larger than normal and eventhough they're only the 100v they barely fit into the predrilled holes GGG had made. The caps would not hold solder and acted like cold solder joints.

Resolution: Was to hone the leads down to a smaller diameter for proper fit. If I was doing my own boards I could have changed the holes diameter and pad size.

Thanks for your help and it was a pleasure conversing with you!

[Gila_Crisis]

on my clone theory clone instead of a charge pump with the MAX IC (which caused a lot of noise) i built this one:
http://stomper.fc2web.com/schematic_free/DC_DC_Converter.jpg

and it works like a charme!!

or maybe you can try this one: http://www.matsumin.net/diy/manual/15v_to_48v/dc_dc_conv15_to_48v.jpg
it's a 15V to 48V but i suppose it should work with 9V too

[WLS]

So you pumped up the voltage by using diodes, caps and a hex inverter. Pretty slick but isn't it more costly in price and realistate to do that?