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TDA1022 Flanger

Started by Ice-9, March 10, 2009, 02:54:11 PM

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Thomeeque

#100
 Hi again, Small Bear still has it, only the link has changed: http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=495

Unfortunately it seems little costly (it is not slide but toggle, right, so maybe that's why), type I have used sells Conrad for something like one dollar (see Mike's link few posts above). But it seems this type is sold only in Europe for some reason.

If you would find some US common DP3T slide switch and provide dimensions, I would not mind to create alternative PCB version for it.

Quote from: hoffy84 on February 20, 2014, 09:19:32 AMWill I be build # 4? :icon_rolleyes:

Hmm, maybe there's more, who knows :) I have missed Pojo's question, maybe he has made some progress..?

And congratulations to Mike to his final problem resolved (better late, than never :icon_redface:)!

Cheers, T.
Do you have a technical question? Please don't send private messages, use the FORUM!

Pojo

QuoteHmm, maybe there's more, who knows Smiley I have missed Pojo's question, maybe he has made some progress..?

Nah, I haven't even begun other then glancing at the schematics and your build reports. I really really want to though! Possibly after this amp project.

armdnrdy

Without reading the through the entire thread to find out what the slide switch requirement is.....I have a feeling it requires a certain footprint and height because it's board mounted.

With that being said.....I've made "daughter" boards for slide switches comprised of a switch and long header pins which worked out fabulously!
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

fendman

Larry I posted the switch and where you can obtain it in Europe...all the info is on it..its page 5 about half way down  on this thread:)

Mike

armdnrdy

Quote from: fendman on February 21, 2014, 11:18:03 AM
Larry I posted the switch and where you can obtain it in Europe...all the info is on it..its page 5 about half way down  on this thread:)

Mike

I just posted this side note as another option for the individuals that don't want to pay shipping on another order.

It seems as if no supplier has everything.....and the shipping charges add up quickly when placing multiple orders.

Think about how many components you could purchase with $6.00. (3.61 BPS)  :icon_wink:
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

fendman


[/quote]

I just posted this side note as another option for the individuals that don't want to pay shipping on another order.
It seems as if no supplier has everything.....and the shipping charges add up quickly when placing multiple orders.
Think about how many components you could purchase with $6.00. (3.61 BPS)  :icon_wink:
[/quote]

Gotcha!!! Like me making onboard pots by extending the legs, cos we can't  get them in the UK and to get them it costs:icon_smile:

armdnrdy

I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

hoffy84

Quote from: armdnrdy on February 21, 2014, 11:13:48 AM
With that being said.....I've made "daughter" boards for slide switches comprised of a switch and long header pins which worked out fabulously!

Ya know what? That's a great idea. Didn't even think of that. What I'd really like to do is just have (4) 3-way toggle switches, but the pin config on those Euro-switches would be tricky to cross over. I have found switches that are functionally the same here in the US, but the pin spacing just doesn't.

SHAME ON YOU TOMAS, for giving us one of the best write-ups on a build that I've ever seen, and YOU putting those lousy switches in the layout!  :icon_eek:

I am kidding of course.  And LARRY, the daughter board suggestion is a fantastic idea. Do have some pics you can share?

armdnrdy

I don't have any batteries for my camera but this image should suffice.



This is the top view.

I used long header pins and slid the plastic "stop" where I needed it for the correct height.
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

hoffy84

Perfect. I can draw something up in Eagle like this to fit my switch. I'm etching the main and buffer boards anyway. Might as well throw these in.

Thanks for the info!

armdnrdy

I designed a capacitor selector box with three board mounted 12 position rotary switches to choose between 36 values of capacitance. (for testing/breadboarding purposes)
I needed a slide switch to choose between the rotary switch outputs.
I could not find a slide switch with the proper length that would mount on the board the same length as the rotary switches so....
I had to improvise.
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

Thomeeque

Quote from: hoffy84 on February 22, 2014, 03:06:24 AM
SHAME ON YOU TOMAS, for giving us one of the best write-ups on a build that I've ever seen, and YOU putting those lousy switches in the layout!  :icon_eek:

I agree, that's why I am willing to create new buffer PCB variant for some common US type ;) But you must find that switch and provide dimensions.

Quote from: Thomeeque on February 21, 2014, 04:47:04 AM
If you would find some US common DP3T slide switch and provide dimensions, I would not mind to create alternative PCB version for it.

Only dimensions may differ, pinout should remain the same (it should not be problem, this is common principle used for 3T slide switches). And maybe try to find type with threaded mounting holes, so these can be used for mounting PCB to panel.

T.
Do you have a technical question? Please don't send private messages, use the FORUM!

hoffy84

Quote from: Thomeeque on February 22, 2014, 01:07:08 PM
Quote from: hoffy84 on February 22, 2014, 03:06:24 AM
I agree, that's why I am willing to create new buffer PCB variant for some common US type ;) But you must find that switch and provide dimensions.

That would be awesome, bc I'm not going to be able to start building til a month from now anyway. I'll start looking again. I found quite a few switches that would work, but didn't bookmark the pages. I'll find one that at least 3 places stock in the US, & that are reasonably priced and post back.

Tomas  & Larry  :icon_biggrin:thank you very much.

hoffy84

#113
Okay Tomas,

Well the part of choice in the US, is (drumroll) ...... The same part you referenced from Small Bear. Although it is indeed pricey, it is the ONLY switch available that has threads so that you can mount the switches to the enclosure. There were many that had mounting ears and holes. But you would need a nut on the other side between the PCB & the enclosure, and that would be physically impossible.
I checked the following MFG's: C&K Components, CW Industries, Alps, Apem, E-Switch, Switchcraft, TE/Alcoswitch.
It just so happens that the last one I checked (TE/Alcoswitch) is the only one with threaded mounting holes. I noticed that Small bear references their's as "the work-alike" of  old Alsowitch part# CST023NK, which is new TE PN# 1437576-4. I also emailed Small Bear to verify that the specs are identical, and they say yes.

Here are the specs: http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=1437576-4&DocType=Customer+Drawing&DocLang=English

Tomas, if you feel like you have the time to change the layout for us here in the US, and it won't take too much out of you, I would be very grateful. I'm in no hurry. Just got my TDA1022 chip in today (not a knock-off) but I am still mauling through the parts list trying to source the rest of the parts.

Even though these switches are expensive, I like the "Atari Style" toggles. Maybe I'll design the pedal to look like a 2600!

StephenGiles

Is the schematic of this beast here? Maybe I've missed it!
"I want my meat burned, like St Joan. Bring me pickles and vicious mustards to pierce the tongue like Cardigan's Lancers.".

armdnrdy

I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

StephenGiles

"I want my meat burned, like St Joan. Bring me pickles and vicious mustards to pierce the tongue like Cardigan's Lancers.".

hoffy84

Question about the Cermet trim resistors:
Says to pay attention to the values in the schematic, which are as follows:
RT1   1k   CCA 50%
RT2   10k   CCA 5.5K
RT3   100k   CCA 7.0V
RT4   10k   CCA 4.7K

When selecting the appropriate trimmers, how many turns should I use? Why are the units so different (50%, 5.5K, 7.0V, 4.7K). I can KIND of understand these:
On RT1: 50% of the 1K trimmer would = 500R ?
On RT2: set the dial to 5.5K ?
On Rt4: set the dial to 4.7K ?

But on RT3, what the heck is 7.0V ? I noticed it says that one is a "Precise trimmer"

Do I need to measure the specified values with my DMM, before installing?

Not quite understanding this part of the schematic. 

armdnrdy

Hoffy84,

Where are you reading this? Which page of the build doc.

Says to pay attention to the values in the schematic, which are as follows:
RT1   1k   CCA 50%
RT2   10k   CCA 5.5K
RT3   100k   CCA 7.0V
RT4   10k   CCA 4.7K
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

hoffy84

Quote from: armdnrdy on February 27, 2014, 11:42:20 PM
Hoffy84,

Where are you reading this? Which page of the build doc.

Says to pay attention to the values in the schematic, which are as follows:
RT1   1k   CCA 50%
RT2   10k   CCA 5.5K
RT3   100k   CCA 7.0V
RT4   10k   CCA 4.7K


Hi Larry,

On page 3 towards the bottom, section 4. Setup Hints - Set all trimmers as indicated on Picture 1: Main Board Schematic
Then if you look at the Main Board Schematic  on page 8, look for the RT()s. (You may go blind trying to find them, but each one reads CCA (and then the range).

Thanks! Jeff