Does the Milennium bypass work here or??

[solderman]

Hi
Come to think of it, to use a millennium by pass in this as I thought would not work or?? The impedance in point X1 and X2 will be almost the same regardless of witch way the leaver in the switch is. Is there any other way to do It?
What would happen if I injected +9V just before the switch and isolated connected the anode side and current limiting resistor of the LED:s at X1 and X2 and isolated this with 3 10uF one after each LED and one before the switch.

Se the schmetich on the bottom of this thread
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=75918.0

//Solderman

[R.G.]

Without digging through your switching, I can't say.

What I can say is that the Millenium Bypass is a very sensitive detector for the difference between 1M or less of resistance and a true open circuit, a few mm of air spacing. A resistor of 1M or less turns the LED off. An open circuit turns the LED on. Meet those conditions and you can use a Millenium.

[zachary vex]

8^)

[snap]

add protection diode?

[solderman]

v

add protection diode?

I donut thing I understand how to insert one. In the signal path it wont work ant to the millennium it wont be any use
about the " 8^) " Sorry most have missed that class don't no the meaning pls x-plain

I have probably not been as clear my self I'm afraid.

What i mean is if I insert say 10uF E-lyts (circled on the drawing) around the LED:s (marked X1 and X2) will this destroy my signal if I inject + 9V at the arrow (signal is AC gets true Caps DC don't) The 3A switch will then direct the +9V to the corresponding LED

Feels like I'm missing some thing its seams to simple to be true.



     

[R.G.]

8^)

How's the Millenium working in your pedals, Z?

[solderman]

Case closed, well almost, I just have to build it and confirm it but .......

As always, the answer is on the Net, this time at GEO. I read trough the Juggler page and R.G has already made this as always. This is what I'm intending to do to make it as versatile as my brain can produse right now.

1 Put the line buffer directly after IN and make it switchable so that the box also can be used as a line buffer in by passed mode.
2. Implement a 4053 or similar to do the switching for 3B and 3C. I think I'll stick to the physical switching for 3A and use the rest of the switch for controlling the CMOS and LED since the pots might alter the CMOS function when injecting the Vb+ but I'll bred board this so I'm gonna test both ways.
4. Implement a second hand controlled switch to switch the feedback of the 3B and 3C to OUT. This will make the box work like a reversible looper like the juggler OR a Loop A / loop B switch.
5. stick with my first thought to keep the parts count down by use of the same kind of Jjack connection for the loop part that is used by a "Insert" on a mixer strip. That is to use one stereo jack and insert a stereo male plug to draw both signals from and then split the ring/tip signal in a Y cable to two female cable jacks with one signal at each tip.

If I can get away with this I will have my self a "Swiss Army Knife" that will be able to work as a;

A Line booster
B Reversed loop shifter with or without a line booster
C Loop A or loop B selector with or without a line booster
D Extension box for extending cables with or without a line booster  (Never seen such a thing is there something like that out there for this purpose?)

If there is any one interested in the result I'll post it here. If not....................

//Solderman