Clear coat over polished Aluminium?

[Toney]

I have a box that will look great just with water slide decals and a polished Aluminium surface. The only time I have done this I went graphics free and just used Turtle wax!
I know to paint correctly you have to use etch primer, but what are people doing with the polised bare Aluminium builds with graphics? Is there any spray clear coat that can stay stuck to an un-primed surface?

[R O Tiree]

If you find one, can you let us know? Every one I've tried has flaked of in a heartbeat.

[newfish]

After drilling, I'd recommend washing the box with a 1 : 3 mix of ordinary Vinegar and water using a clean paintbrush.

This should get rid of any finger grease / marks on the box.  

If you hold the box 'inside' you'll avoid producing any more marks, btw...

Allow this to dry (or use paper towels) - then carefully apply your decals / labels or whatever.

Finish with a coat or two of clear laquer (aloowing plenty of time to dry between of course).

I've not done many 'Plain Alu' boxes, but this is my standard method for finishing, regardless of whether I'm spray-painting or leaving as a plain finish.

There are undoubtedly better ways of doing it judging by the pictures some folks round here have supplied, but this works for me so far.

Best of luck!

[newfish]

...I've used plain old PCB Laquer in the past for my clear coat (I had nothing else in at the time) - and this worked a treat!

[SonicVI]

Duplicolor make a clear primer that they call "adhesion promoter". I've only used it with their translucent color coats, not clear, so I don't know how well it will work with polished surfaces.
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/adhesion.html

[gtudoran]

It works like a charm with all duplicolor laque... excelent coating. Live about 24 hours between each layer of coting. Before that i recomand to polish the box (if is not allready done), wash it with soap and after taht whipe it with somme cotton wool with Acetone.

[nosamiam]

I haven't tried it, but I think this would be the stuff to use:

http://search.eastwoodco.com/search?p=R&srid=S1%2d4&lbc=eastwood&w=diamond%20clear%20gloss&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eeastwood%2ecom%2fjump%2ejsp%3fitemID%3d415%26itemType%3dPRODUCT&rk=2&uid=192944767&sid=12&ts=custom&rsc=ZpSSCdjz:6ujVYdf&method=and&isort=score

It's made for car parts so I would think it would be pretty durable. And it's made for bare aluminum, so no adhesion problems.

[Toney]

Hey. that looks pretty good. 

[davent]

The back of this was wet sanded to 600 grit then sprayed with the house brand lacquer from a local hardware chain. The decals were then applied then many more coats of clear, sanding back with wet 800 grit to level it. You really can't see the decal edges in real life but the photo seems to show otherwise. 600 grit dosen't give you a mirror finish but perhaps it leaves a rough enough surface to provide some extra grip for the lacquer. It's been a couple years since it was done and shows no sign of wear but then it's not a spot that's going to see much action or abuse. The top of the chassis is just waxed with a conservator's wax.

dave

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[frequencycentral]

I sand my enclosures by hand. I don't paint them, I'm too impatient to wait for paint to cure. So all my builds are bare polished aluminium, which I like a lot. I do love to see the wild paint jobs that some of you guys do, but paint and me don't mix well. I don't use waterslides, I prefer ink jet film. I have found that waterslides can wrinkle with dense graphics, and can tear easily when attempting to get the wrinkles out. The ink jet film I use if very stiff compared to waterslides, it takes colour well - and it's cheap! I reverse the image so its printed on the underside of the ink jet film, really well protected.

Here's the ink jet film I use: http://www.staedtler.co.uk/Lumocolor_inkjet_printer_film_gb.Staedtler

Here's the clear I use: http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9254153&ecamp=trf-005&CAWELAID=266948485

We all have our own way of working, our preferences and comfort blankets. I've found a way which works well for me. I'm happy!

[SonicVI]

This is what clear coat turned to over polished Al for me. I can't remember what kind of clear I used though. I basically could be chiiped off with a fingernail.

[Fuzz Aldryn]

Hi,

this is how my first attempt in clearcoating went out:


Regards
Helge

[stumper1]

I've used a product called Glisten PC.  It's made specifically to clear coat polished metals.  Works VERY well.  I polished and cleared the treadle on my wah a couple of years ago and it still looks like new after being kicked around daily since...

Not sure if it will work over decals - it may eat them.  I've been meaning to try it myself.

[Toney]

Nice.
Hey Rick, you said "I reverse the image so its printed on the underside of the ink jet film" so no gum there? How do you stick this stuff down?

Do you go right over the whole build with that spay, decal and all, or just the metal, then sticker on top?

Nice results, BTW.

[frequencycentral]

Hey Rick, you said "I reverse the image so its printed on the underside of the ink jet film" so no gum there? How do you stick this stuff down?

I give the box a decent shot of clear first, press the graphic on, wiggle it into place, three or four coats of clear over the top an hour apart, then gawk at it like an idiot for a couple of days until it dries.

[Toney]

Ah-so, so that product is not a sticker or sticky type? Just a clear film?
My local Officeworks doesn't have that, that I have seen - I'll try to hunt some down.
Results speak for themselves 

[biggy boy]

Hi,

this is how my first attempt in clearcoating went out:


Regards
Helge

Is that box etched, it looks like it is or something.

[Fuzz Aldryn]

Hi,

yes it is an etch work. I don't use any decals or stuff like that, as they tend to peel off at the edges over time - even if they are clear coated. Etch work is more resistant. But I'm still searching a good clearcoat to to portect the alu from oxidation. The one I used this time is still to soft and gets fairly easy scratches.
Have a look hiere:


Regards
Helge

[Toney]

Right.
My auto parts paint guy absolutely insists that you have to you ETCH primer to get long lasting adhesion with Alu. My expeience bears this out but that Plasti-Kote stuff looks like the go.
I'll be heading down to SuperCheap Auto tomorrow so we'll see if I can find some.

[Hanglow]

I've been using use this for two and a half years, no flaking or yellowing yet.