MOJO PARTS FOR FUZZ FACE?

Started by piloto117, May 06, 2009, 01:57:12 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

piloto117

  Hey guys, a friend of mine asked me to build him a Fuzz Face (boutique 69 version from GGG), and told me he wanted lots of "mojo" in it.  To be honest I'm very, very new at this and to tell you the truth I really don't believe too much in this mojo business, but never the less he got himself some ac128's (matched, low leakage) and wants the rest of the components "top mojo" (his words, not mine, LOL) .  So it got me thinking, that I'd better ask before buying expensive stuff...  Which btw, asked me to go easy on the dollars; something moderate because he doesn't want to end up with a big bill.  So what do you think people?  Suggestions are welcome.  :)

sfx

I don't know, the transistors are the main thing really. You could do carbon comp resistors I guess. Caps are not much really.

Focalized

Pretty simple to do as the parts are common.

In the pic below the blue caps are Philips Axial Electrolytic. The resistors are carbon composition. The cap on the right is a tropical fish cap.
Look those parts up and you should find some. I've gotten lots on Ebay.

If you are going to use a GGG.com PCB those parts are not going to fit well. I made that layout to look like a real fuzz face and wired it point to point.

Curly

I have an original '69, and I've built 3 GGG versions - one from his kit, and 2 others with parts I sourced.

as stated before, the real mojo is in the trannies. Fulltone uses mainly carbon comp resistors, although not all. Caps are fairly common Xicon electrolytics and film, with a low value ceramic disc.

although the tweakability is nice, I'm just not yet convinced the extra parts are worth the effort, compared to a well-tuned "standard" fuzz face.

I'd suggest reading R.G. Keen's "technology of the fuzz face". You might also look on free stomp boxes for additional info -- there are a number of pics and suggestions.
FYI, GGG's output cap value is wrong - it should read .01 uF, NOT 0.1.

if you have not built a fuzz face before, you might consider building GGG's regular kit first, since it's well-documented and quite affordable.
"music heals"

John Lyons

But then you figure if it looks "mojo" people will assume it sounds better.  :icon_biggrin:
Don't forget your psychology!

john
Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

piloto117

LOL! ;D

  Personally I also think that the transistors are the mojo factor, and I've heard some silicon versions that to MY ears sound better...but this is all so subjective so to each it's own...  All of this discussion (with my friend) has got me thinking on the folllowing:
I'm planning to do two of the same kind but one with silicon transistors and "stock" components and the other with the germanium pair he's providing plus carbon comp resistors and looking for some cool caps, (which is where I kinda got stuck) just to compare them side by side....
  I'm aware of the geofx article on the technology of the fuzzface (great read!), and also noticed the cap on C3 is different on the 69 version (from GGG) but I don't think it's a typo, I think it's supposed to be like that; can anyone confirm this?  Is it 0.1uf or 0.01uf on the 69 version?
  BTW, thanks for the comments guys. It's been very educational and interesting on the different POV's.

deaconque

for the caps use tropical fish or some paper in  oil's.  Carbon comp resistors and the blue philips e-lytics.  with all of that stuff you're friend is sure to think he has the holy grail of fuzzes, even if it sounds like a turd ;).  you could even throw in some cloth covered wire to complete the "super fantastic magical mojo madness fuzz".  or better yet you could use silicon trannies, metal film resistors, ceramic caps and then cover it all in goop to secure your secret :icon_lol:

analogmike

Start out with some better transistors, those have no mojo, the generic germaniums from small bear will sound better.
DIY has unpleasant realities, such as that an operating soldering iron has two ends differing markedly in the degree of comfort with which they can be grasped. - J. Smith

mike  ~^v^~ aNaLoG.MaN ~^v^~   vintage guitar effects

http://www.analogman.com

Joe Hart

I've had great luck sourcing parts from old (1960's and 70's) electronics. Dead console TV's, dead home organs, dead "hi-fi's," etc. Loads of carbon comp resistors, tropical fish caps, paper and oil caps, even old transistors, etc. It's free and you're recycling! But mostly it's free!!
-Joe Hart

MikeH

It's funny, but I've built a couple of pedals using total absolute mojo parts, and I realize now it was really just because I wanted the guts to look fancy, not because it actually sounded that much better.  It's like gibson versus epiphone; 90% of guitar players in a blind taste test would be hard pressed to tell the difference between a gibson and an epiphone les paul standard if they're both set up properly with all other things being equal.  But you play the gibson because people will take you more seriously.  You play the 'nicer' guitar because you want people to know that you care that much more about what you're doing.  At least, that's why I play one.  ;)

It's the same with mojo parts; 90% of players can't necessarily hear the difference, but they want mojo because they want others to know they care that much more.
"Sounds like a Fab Metal to me." -DougH

yeeshkul

... a glass enclosure may come handy to get some fine reputation :):)

Scruffie

Quote from: Joe Hart on May 07, 2009, 02:07:04 PM
I've had great luck sourcing parts from old (1960's and 70's) electronics. Dead console TV's, dead home organs, dead "hi-fi's," etc. Loads of carbon comp resistors, tropical fish caps, paper and oil caps, even old transistors, etc. It's free and you're recycling! But mostly it's free!!
-Joe Hart

+1 on the harvesting, I harvest old radios, carbon comp and Ge Transistors galore and once again recycling stuff that to most other uses would be uselesss, even occasionally get a nice useable enclosure.

Curly

I'm sorry I made that comment about the value of the output cap ... I switched out the cap last night, and I agree ... sounds better with 0.1uF.
GGG supplies both values with their kit, and the value they use depends on which version you build -- since they have five versions.

I also agree with Mike about using small bear's trannies ... you can spend a lot of time and effort to find out you'd be better off starting with those to begin with.
many things are debatable and subjective when it comes to tone .... I have read comments from people who say gain matching and proper biasing doesn't matter that much in a fuzz circuit ...
that just doesn't square with me from a common sense point of view ... well, and also LISTENING
so, I'm in the camp of those who say match the trannies and bias to around 4.5-5V. I just think we've learned a few things over the years by analyzing these circuits.

Quote from: piloto117 on May 07, 2009, 01:25:14 AM
  I'm aware of the geofx article on the technology of the fuzzface (great read!), and also noticed the cap on C3 is different on the 69 version (from GGG) but I don't think it's a typo, I think it's supposed to be like that; can anyone confirm this?  Is it 0.1uf or 0.01uf on the 69 version?
"music heals"

piloto117

  Well like I said before I'm gonna build two, one for my friend with the "mojo parts" and the other for myself with "stock parts" and silicon trannies.  In the end I'll try to record some clips and compare them side by side. 
  I'll try to keep in mind looking for usable vintage parts on old or dead equipment also!  I don't own too many things for doing that, but I'll try to remember that next time I'm at a flea market or something, LOL  ;D
  I truly appreciate all your input guys, it's been recomforting to know that I'm not so "out of track". 
Curly, thanks for clearing that up for me, I even sent GGG a message to confirm the correct calue, but they still haven't replied; but I'm pretty sure there isn't an error on the 69 instructions.


   

 

piloto117

  oh, also forgot to mention that yes, smallbear kicks ass!   :icon_biggrin:

nico13

Quote from: piloto117 on May 08, 2009, 12:48:48 AM
  Well like I said before I'm gonna build two, one for my friend with the "mojo parts" and the other for myself with "stock parts" and silicon trannies.  In the end I'll try to record some clips and compare them side by side. 
 

 

To get a more accurate comparison you should use the same transistors with both "mojo" and "modern" parts.

yeeshkul

#16
You have to do a blind test to compare two boxes. You always secretly prefer one of them and that has a strong influence on your judgement. Let your buddy play them while you are listening without looking. Otherwise you'll get false results. I bet you won't be able to recognise tropical fish and all the other mojo bollocks from contemporary stuff.
The only trouble are trannies. Especially for Ge they are quite impossible to find two identical couples, so you can't get identical boxes.

GREEN FUZ

Here`s a tip I learned from my Feng shui master. The fuzz face only sounds right if it`s in a round enclosure. That way the Mojo doesn`t get trapped in the corners and the cosmic force is allowed to circulate freely.

Nasse

That round case idea is good, been planning that for some time. Last time I started to do a wooden fuzzface I was in a hurry and made it ugly asymmetric hex shape instead (was easier to do, straight cuts you know). But the paint color is important too

Only mojo was transistors and I put JH picture in the btm, and real vintage chicken head knobs from some old exotic tube thingie I found at flea market, and I hand picked the battery first included

I have some pertinax board but need to buy electrolytic caps and transistors. There was a secret tip few years ago, it was covering electrolytic and perhaps other caps with brown paper
  • SUPPORTER

deaconque

Quote from: GREEN FUZ on May 08, 2009, 06:55:24 AM
Here`s a tip I learned from my Feng shui master. The fuzz face only sounds right if it`s in a round enclosure. That way the Mojo doesn`t get trapped in the corners and the cosmic force is allowed to circulate freely.

:D it also has to be placed precisely 5.37 feet away from your amp, on top of an alter with candles and lamb's blood.  it's they key to "that" sound (sorry I don't make the rules) ;)