Tonepad ce-2 strange behavior ??????

[bent]

I know that i'm supposed to put voltage and everything, but i'm at work for all the week-end and i dont think i will be able to take all the info before a few days... so i just put the 2 problem in case someone had the same problem before, otherwise i will put voltage ASAP ....

here's the 2 problem:

- the footswitch is making a big pop (never had problem of poping before on any pedal) ,but the more a click the footswitch (8 to 10 times) , the poping fade out totally.... so i change the footswitch , and still doing it.... it's like if a cap is dropping all is voltage ....

- i can here the LFO ticking when all pot are to max..... i try a 2.2 uf on pin 1 and 7 of the tl072 and rc4558, ( like on the echo base) but didn't do anything...

any help

Bent

[blester]

You are not alone, I had the same issues and they are easy to fix.

You should be able to cure the switching pop by adding the optional "R/R in" resistor shown on the Tonepad schematic.  I always use 1.5 Megs for my effects.  2.2 Megs is also a popular value.

I used the TL022 for my Tonepad CE2 and the clicking is very faint with the amp cranked above 9.  I play with The amp around 3 so I don't even hear it now.  When I built mine I had the same issue and asked a similar question here.  Lots of good answers.  Layout is critical with this effect.  Having short wires to the jacks and footswitch will really quiet the ticking.  I ended up shielding the wires to the in and out jacks as well as the PC board's in and out leads.  It made a big difference with this circuit.  Lately I have been using 1/2" copper tape to cover and secure the in and out jack leads to the side of the enclosures.  I like having the jacks up front of my 125Bs so the leads are longer than if you placed the jacks on the sides of the enclosure.

Good luck

[bent]

thank's blester...

You should be able to cure the switching pop by adding the optional "R/R in" resistor shown on the Tonepad schematic

i have a 1M resistor, i will try a 2M2....

i have another tonepad ce-2 and i dont have any problem....but this one i build it with a BSIB2 in the same box....i want to try 2 effect in the same box, and the BSIB2 doesn't pop.....i think i will try to completly by-pass the dist to see if it's affecting the ce-2.....

And for the wiring, i always use shielding cable....

bent

[R O Tiree]

When the LFO square-wave generator slams from rail to rail, it draws its maximum current at those instants and this causes a momentary sag of around 2mV or so at the +9V rail, which is picked up in the rest of the signal chain because the supply voltage to the rest of the circuit is being affected. tick, tick, tick, tick...

The TL022 draws much less current than the TL072, so this problem is minimised right from the start by the choice of opamp, as the increase in current demand by a TL022 when it switches state suddenly is much less significant. If this still does not improve things as much as you want, try putting a small resistor (100R?) and a large cap (47µF?) in parallel between the +9V rail and pin 8 of the LFO opamp and a similar arrangement between pin 4 and the GND rail. The resistors separate the supply pins of the opamp very slightly from the rest of the circuit's supply rails and the 2 large caps provide a "reservoir" for any sudden current draw required by the LFO. Kind of like the shock absorbers and springs in a car's suspension, then...

[bent]

You should be able to cure the switching pop by adding the optional "R/R in" resistor shown on the Tonepad schematic

i have a 1M resistor, i will try a 2M2....

well, i try it and nothing change....

When the LFO square-wave generator slams from rail to rail, it draws its maximum current at those instants and this causes a momentary sag of around 2mV or so at the +9V rail, which is picked up in the rest of the signal chain because the supply voltage to the rest of the circuit is being affected. tick, tick, tick, tick...

The TL022 draws much less current than the TL072, so this problem is minimised right from the start by the choice of opamp, as the increase in current demand by a TL022 when it switches state suddenly is much less significant. If this still does not improve things as much as you want, try putting a small resistor (100R?) and a large cap (47µF?) in parallel between the +9V rail and pin 8 of the LFO opamp and a similar arrangement between pin 4 and the GND rail. The resistors separate the supply pins of the opamp very slightly from the rest of the circuit's supply rails and the 2 large caps provide a "reservoir" for any sudden current draw required by the LFO. Kind of like the shock absorbers and springs in a car's suspension, then...

i will try it.....thank's R O Tiree

Bent

[bent]

updates....

i found the source of my footswitch poping....cold joint on the dc jack, remake it and now no more poping.... yes 

now i will try your suggestion R O Tiree ...


bent

[bent]

more updates...

R O Tiree....doesn't do nothing the 100ohm and 47uf....on the tl072 

but i found that the problem is from the booster that i put after the chorus (that was for solving the volume drop), when i by-pass the booster, no more tic-tic-tic.... i put it back, and i put a 100ohm in serie on the enter of + on the chorus, and it half down the tic-tic-tic....try a 47uf to ground with the 100ohm in serie, but nothing...

keep searching....otherwise i'll take out the booster....

bent