Another Rangemaster, But.......

[Joe Hart]

You have inspired me to finally build a Rangemaster!  I am using an old Realistic 12V adapter thingy (it looks like the Rangemaster enclosure), so I'm all happy that it won't just be another MXR-sized rectangle.  Anyway, can you tell me about the switch?  Is it a DPDT?  The enclosure has a switch that looks like the RM one, but it just has 3 lugs on the back.  And I think this would be an effect that I would either use for recording (where plugging it into the chain isn't a problem) or use a bypass box for live use, so I wouldn't really need an LED indicator or even true bypass.  I am also adding an input cap knob, so I'm not that hung up on historical accuracy.  But maybe this is morphing into a different question...  Do you know how I could wire up the switch that I do have?  Would I just put the "live" wire to the center lug, then one lug to output and one to the effect?  And would I do the switch at the start of the effect or at the output?  Thanks.  And I totally love your build!!
-Joe Hart

[Electric Warrior]

the originals used a DPDT, but weren't wired for true bypass. they used to cut the battery when the unit was switched off, instead

[Brymus]

That really is an incredible looking clone 
Excellent work -its like seeing an old Vette someone shaped themselves,You have truly set the bar higher for Rangmaster clones.

[bluesdevil]

Very cool indeed!! Can't wait to see the Uni-Vibe build. 

[Mick Bailey]

The switch I used is the DPDT http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Slide-Switches/Standard-slide-switch/30267, which has six connections - effectively two of what you have in parallel. One side switches the battery negative to give on/off and the other switches the output jack to the input jack (bypass) or the output jack to the output of the circuit (effect on).

The downside of this arrangement is that there is still some circuitry hanging off the input when the effect is bypassed, as well as the power being switched at the same time. This gives a bit of a clunk when the effect is bypassed.

I suppose the signal loading in bypass mode contributes to the authenticity if you were trying to capture a moment in time for a particular artist, but a true bypass arrangement would be better in practical terms. The original circuit gives a slight treble roll-off in bypass mode

I would wire it with your existing switch as; battery negative to the switch centre lug, bottom lug to the effect negative supply.

[tatter]

Great stuff. The lettering used on the original Rangemasters is called 'Gill Sans' btw. It's probably fairly cheap to buy. Would make it look even more authentic.

[Electric Warrior]

he knows, look at the first post in this thread

[tatter]

he knows, look at the first post in this thread

Ooops! Apologies, i think i scanned over a lot of the info.

[Electric Warrior]

Gill Sans sure would look better and more correct.
Arial Baltic doesn't look that similar to the font used on the earliest units imho.

[Mick Bailey]

I'm replacing the panel type with Gill Sans - I agree that this would improve the appearance. At the time I set the type over a ghosted image of an early Rangemaster to get the best match with what I had to hand, but I've since downloaded Gill Sans.

If anyone is interested, a free download of a TrueType font can be had at:

http://www.clicksaab.com/2005/11/the_many_faces_.html - just scroll down the page.

I've just reset the panel and it looks much better (on a printout, at least). I've also worked out how to mount the pot with two screws to match the original appearance. 

[ericohman]

Looking good!

What technique did you use for the front decals?

[Mick Bailey]

It's the Laser version of Lazertran (there's also an inkjet version). The image is printed in reverse, cut out and the as-yet-unapplied decal baked at approximately 200 degrees C until the toner side turns glossy. This is the key to success with this product, otherwise you will get bubbles at a later stage.

Then soak the decal in water and slide it off onto the panel, smoothing it out from the centre to eliminate trapped water and bubbles. Trim out the holes and cutouts with a scalpel or similar, then  put it back into the oven and bake it until the surface turns glossy. After cooling, just a light spray with Hycote clear acrylic lacquer gives a finised job, though this isn't strictly necessary. Too heavy a coating will dissolve the Lazertran.

The finished result is very durable and resists scratching and abrasion. My photograph doesn't do the product justice, as in reality it is indistinguishable from screen printing. The back panel is also done with the original wording.

You need a heatproof base on which to apply your Lazertran - something that won't burn or discolour. For this pedal I had a redundant CD burner with a nice flat grey sheet steel panel over the electronics. I carefully cut out a rectangular piece and drilled and filed the holes without scratching it. Otherwise I would have used some aluminium or steel and spray painted it with grey primer to get the base colour. I was just lucky with the CD.

A tip on printing this is to print a draft, then use gumstrip to stick a piece of Lazertran over the dreft image. Just a narrow strip top and bottom works fine. Then run it back through the printer at hi-res with any toner-saving features turned off to get a strong image. The same technique applies to PnP or using photo paper for etching purposes. Saves a lot of waste. The gum strip needs to be the sort you lick (or wet).

People who like licking gum strip should not contact me - my only interest is in making stompboxes.

[ericohman]

Thank you!
Inkjet water decals are on its way home

1. Can I use my owen in my house or will it mess it up?

2. Did you make your rangemaster enclosure yourself? If not, who sell them? It looks really good.

Banzaieffects.com has them http://www.banzaieffects.com/TEKO-BC2-pr-19411.html#tabs
However they look identical on the front and rear and I'm not sure what size the original rangemaster was. The one I posted a link to seems a little bit too big.

Best regards,
Eric

[Mick Bailey]

I use a tabletop oven that I originally bought for stompbox use, as the main oven in the kitchen was always being used when I wanted to bake some paint or decals. Since then it's been hijacked for food use as well, so I guess I'm back to square one. It won't mess your oven up, but be sure there's no grease or bits in the oven that may contaminate your panel.

I made my own enclosure so that I could get the dimensions as close to the original as I could. I built a little folding machine a while back for bending up amp chassis and this came in handy, though I have previously just used wooden blocks in the vice and a hammer with good results. Unless you have reasonable sheet metal skills (or a good deal of patience) this can be frustrating.

The banzai site doesn't seem to give dimensions, but it doesn't look quite right. I scaled my own box up from photos and it came out as 95mm wide x 60mm high x 120mm deep. Now everyone with a Rangemaster will tell me that's completely wrong.....

Maplins do a box that's fairly close to these sizes and I would have probably used the AB24 http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1728 if making my own hadn't become an obsession.

I would recommend that you make the front panel separately in any case, using thin sheet metal. The control fixings will hold it in place. I think you could end up with a decent looking Rangemaster without going to too much trouble and without having to bend up your own.

BTW, if anyone is interested in the revised decal (now Gill Sans) I'm happy to upload it.

[cat]

BTW, if anyone is interested in the revised decal (now Gill Sans) I'm happy to upload it.

Id be eternally greatful if you would Mick. I spent hours working from photos to draw up the faceplate. I have all the text done but I couldnt seem to get the staff 'art' right.

BTW my dimensions for the box were 100 x 60 x 120mm deep so I reckon that confirms that we're pretty close.

Cat

[Mick Bailey]

Here's the latest version with the following changes;

Panel now done in Gill Sans
Pot mounted with two screws rather than a nut
Casing sprayed with Hammerite
Trim applied

Still needs a little work, but it's getting there........

http://www.avwz35.dsl.pipex.com/rangemaster3.jpg

The panel artwork I used is here (2.5mb)

http://www.avwz35.dsl.pipex.com/rangemaster Panel.bmp

[Electric Warrior]

no anti-aliasing?
looks outstanding apart from that.. in some details even better than the JMI reissue.
how about a gut shot?

[Mick Bailey]

The artwork is an export from Serif Pageplus and it doesn't come out as well in bitmap form as it does when printed straight out of Pageplus. In reality the panel is fine to look at and the type is crisp. The logo is a little aliased but isn't actually noticeable on the actual pedal. Maybe I need to get a better package for my artwork, or get to grips with the Autocad I've had lying around for three years.

I need to sort out the trim as it comes on a roll and wants to stay that way, even after soaking in boiling water to persuade it to straighten out. I have noticed on original pedals that it often looks curved/bent/broken. The other part I need to make is the little milled-edge nut that holds the battery cover.

What did turn out well is the colour of the panel - the photo doesn't show this up too well, but I sprayed it with grey primer before firing on the Lazertran and it is much better than before.

[Mick Bailey]

Cat,

Here's a better resolution export of the 'staff' artwork;

http://www.avwz35.dsl.pipex.com/rangemaster logo.bmp

Mick

[Electric Warrior]

here's a smooth version. might have some minor deformations.
http://rapidshare.de/files/47891647/rangemasterlogo.png.html