[Question] Labeling pedals with paper and spray adhesive

Started by mike_a, June 28, 2009, 05:21:52 PM

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mike_a

Hi,

Up until now, I have been using sticky back paper to label my pedals.
I buy powder coated enclosures as I don't want to deal with painting.

what I used to do was to print the label using a color laser printer,
apply the sticker to the enclosure, and then clear-coat it.

The problem is that it often wouldn't stick well to the surface of the box.
Even after the clear coat it would get bubbles after a few days of drying.

I searched around the forum and found that people use shiny photo paper and glue it on with spray adhesive.
I would like to ask anyone with experience with that method:

1. do you use simple contact adhesive spray?
2. How do you apply the adhesive? both to the paper and to the box? just to the paper is enough?
3. If applying adhesive to the box, how do you prevent the adhesive from showing around the edge of the label?
4. Is this method durable?

Thanks!
Mike.

Ice-9

When i was at college on a spray painting course one of the things covered was exactly this.
How it was done to good effect was to spray a thin coat of clearcoat to the surface before putting the print on, this acts as the adhesive for the paper decal after this clearcoat con be applied over the entire surface.
You have to be careful and get the decal in position accurately. If the correct amount of clearcoat has been sprayed on before the decal than you will be able to move the decal around a bit to position it .
www.stanleyfx.co.uk

Sanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting the same result. Mick Taylor

Please at least have 1 forum post before sending me a PM demanding something.

mike_a

Thanks, Ice.

Which paper did you use?
Is this method suitable for thin glossy photo paper (like glossy magazine paper)?

JasonG

I had problems with paper labels too. I used photo paper a few times and some label paper that had adhesive. The adhesive breaks down when you hit it with clear coat and I think photo papers too thick to work with I wish thinner paper was readily available but I have found anything I like yet.
The clear coat as adhesive is the way to go. I never liked how  the irregular texture of the paper fibers would show up when I sprayed the clear coat on so now I lightly spray paint the back of the paper to keep it opaque. It's cheap and I am getting better results than I have ever gotten.
Class A booster , Dod 250 , Jfet booster, Optical Tremolo, Little Gem 2,  mosfet boost, Super fuzz , ESP stand alone spring reverb red Llama omni-drive , splitter blender ,

NEVER use gorilla glue for guitar repairs! It's Titebond , Elmers, or Superglue

frequencycentral

http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

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mth5044

I was told to this by a very wise forum member  ;)

"I used the "thinnest" paper they had, 70lb text they call it.
I cal it magazine paper as it's coated with a satin varnish."

Haven't tried it yet, but it is the same way as described in this thread... layer of clearcoat, stick the paper on then more clear coat, until you have as much on as you want.

zyxwyvu

With my last few pedals I've had pretty good results using plain printer paper and a glue stick. Here's how my process works:

-paint enclosure, let dry
-add a couple layers of clearcoat, and let dry
-apply glue to back of paper, and get it on the right place on the enclosure
-add a few more layers of clearcoat

One issue I've had is not adding enough glue; then the paper gets bubbles under it. Otherwise, the paper adheres very well to the box.

Ice-9

Quote from: mike_a on June 28, 2009, 06:14:35 PM
Thanks, Ice.

Which paper did you use?
Is this method suitable for thin glossy photo paper (like glossy magazine paper)?

Yeah thin magazine type paper was used, (the thinner the paper the more the background colour can be seen through the print)
We also used a process with photocopier paper and a laser colour printer where the decal was printed then coated in a thin coat of clearcoat, then once dry was bathed in water until the paper came away, leaving a clear decal (very fragile) but i cant remember the full details of how we did that.
www.stanleyfx.co.uk

Sanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting the same result. Mick Taylor

Please at least have 1 forum post before sending me a PM demanding something.

mike_a

Thanks for the replies guys!

I will try the clearcoat-as-adhesive method.
However, something still bugs me:
After you spray the adhesive coat of clearcoat on the box -  how do you prevent finger marks from adjusting the label?
Also - do you need to spray the back of the label with clearcoat too?

To zyxwyvu - Did you use plain UHU-style glue stick?

Thanks again to all of you guys,
Mike.

zyxwyvu


mike_a

Quote from: frequencycentral on June 28, 2009, 07:13:46 PM
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=77001.0

Any help?

Thanks Rick.

It's a great photo essay!
However, I need something to put over a black box.
But I might try it on a white one some day.

mike_a

bump for the last question:

After you spray the adhesive coat of clearcoat on the box -  how do you prevent finger marks from adjusting the label?
Also - do you need to spray the back of the label with clearcoat too?

Thanks again,
Mike.

Talon5051

QuoteAfter you spray the adhesive coat of clearcoat on the box -  how do you prevent finger marks from adjusting the label?
Also - do you need to spray the back of the label with clearcoat too?

I just tried this method on a box with some success -Thanks Rick.  When applying the label there should not be any clearcoat on the label (only on the box) so there will not be any fingerprints.  The label is sticking to the clearcoat that is applied to the box.  After you are sure the label is in the spot you want it then spray the clearcoat over the label.  You should not have to spray the back of the label either.

QuoteHowever, I need something to put over a black box.

I also have some black/dark boxes that I want to put something on and will be watching for future suggestions.

darrylportelli

Hey check this out : http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=77001.0
Its a very good guide for graphics using transparency paper.
When using clear coat as the ''glue'' make sure it isnt a laser print out or the colors will blead like hell.
Instead of spray on adhesive today I tried to use Wood Glue(the white glue ) with very good results so I can use laser printouts.
I first thinned the glue 50:50 with water( It may have been a little less water),Then I put some thinned glue on a piece of aluminum sheet, put my transparency over it and pushed it a little with my thumb,then after about an hour or so (so the glue has set a little and the transparency doesnt move) grab a credit card and ''sqeegee'' over the transparency so as to remove the excess glue from under the transparency. Then let it dry and clear coat everything.
Today I tried this with very good results on a piece of aluminum sheet and soon when my enclosure paint has done curing Ill try this out and see the results.