pulldown resistors.....

[dukie]

Can you provide a URL for the schematic you used? I did some searching, found the GGG Hog's Foot schematic, but it does not have a volume pot in series with the input.

The Hog's Foot as presented at GGG should be fine with 1M pulldowns before the input cap and after the output cap **if the caps are oriented the correct way round** that being with the + end toward the circuit, and the caps are not somehow damaged.

Also, I did not see any volume pot in series with the effect at GGG, so I don't know what schematic you're actually using.

Hi R.G im using this schematic http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_hog_sc.pdf
i dont know how you call it but there is a volume pot  after the switch in line with the effect input, so i call it "in series". but correct me if im wrong 
and as far as i know there are 2 hogs foot schematic i found on the internet (www.fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com) one of them using volume pot inline with the effect input, while the other put it at the effect output like regular guitar effect shcematic out there. but none of them using pulldown resistor and i wonder why? my bassist is so annoyed with the loud pop sound everytime he switch the effect on/off or worst when he using the rotary switch,while im pretend not hearing it cause i cant find any solution yet 

There is. You have to use high value resistors to ensure that the unused end of any capacitor is always pulled to a constant voltage whenever it's not being used. Otherwise, you will inevitably have popping because the capacitor will leak a little while one end is open circuited, and the amount it "relaxes" will be heard as a pop when it's switched back in. One way to do this is to put a 1M (for instance) in series with each cap and use your selector switch to short out the resistor when that cap is in use. Another is to gang up all the caps with one end at the circuit's input, the other end of every single one pulled to ground. Then you can hook the rotary switch to route the input to the desired cap without popping because all of them are pulled down to the same voltage.

Finally, some switches just pop all by themselves.

The details matter.

Ive tried using 1-5M resistor before the input and output caps (3,3uF electro with the "+" toward the board) with no luck, should i increase it to 10M maybe?or is it the led that causing the pops? ive read jack orman article about leds pop but i dont have time to test it yet.
Thanks for the reply R.G i'll try your suggestion about the rotary switch. and im sorry for the lack of detail in my post, the connection here in indonesia is not stable sometimes it only last for 1-5 minute an then disconnected so i had to write as fast as i could 
sorry for the english too 

Sure enough I had a 1uf elec for an input cap... I put in a non-polarized film in there and pop is gone. 

In my country its hard to find film caps with high value, there is mylar caps but looking at the size of 1uF caps make me shiver especially what im using is 3,3uF caps.

cheers!

[R.G.]

Hi R.G im using this schematic http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_hog_sc.pdf

OK, that helps a lot. That schematic has an error. C1 is shown with the + and - terminals backwards. Reverse C1 and the pops should go away.

i dont know how you call it but there is a volume pot  after the switch in line with the effect input, so i call it "in series". but correct me if im wrong 

No, you're right. I found a schematic for the Hogs Foot that was not that one. The original Hogs Foot didn't have a volume control in front.

Ive tried using 1-5M resistor before the input and output caps (3,3uF electro with the "+" toward the board) with no luck, should i increase it to 10M maybe?or is it the led that causing the pops?

Increasing the pulldown will increase the pop - a bigger resistor is more like no resistor (that is, an open circuit) at all. Smaller pulldown resistors reduce pop more. But something like 470k to 1M should be as low as is needed unless you have a leaky capacitor. And you *do* have a leaky capacitor in C1 if you placed C1 like the schematic shows.

Thanks for the reply R.G i'll try your suggestion about the rotary switch. and im sorry for the lack of detail in my post, the connection here in indonesia is not stable sometimes it only last for 1-5 minute an then disconnected so i had to write as fast as i could 
sorry for the english too 

I understand. No problem. And your English is much better than any second language of mine, so no apologies are needed.