Etching WARNING: Staples "Photo Basic Gloss" has been changed for the worse

[John Lyons]

So I just ran out of my usual 100 pack of Staple "photo basic gloss" that
i use for toner transfer on the boards I make.
I ordered a pack of the "same" stuff and the 100 pack wasn't available...
hmmmm....
So I go to use the new pack and it's not the same stuff AT ALL.

My iron stuck to the back in a sticky burning plastic mess. Bah!
So I figured they changed the back coating. I put a sheet of paper
over the back and continued on ironing my 30 +/- boards I was doing.

I soak them and go to peel them and...WTF! There is a clear plastic
coating on the copper that is fairly thick and does not budge much at all.
I was able to peel a couple boards but overall they were crap and not usable.

So now what? I found a small stash of old stock "photo basic gloss" but I'm not
looking forward to when that runs out.

For reference sake:
The old "good" paper is called "Photo Basic Gloss" 9mil thick / 53 lb
The new crap stuff is called "Photo Basic Gloss Paper" 8.2 mil / 56lb
Both are in the red package with the same photo and identical looking text and layout.

Just putting it out there in case you are getting this paper...it's not what you want.

John

[DUY1337GUITAR]

I guess magazine paper will be the best economic choice

[John Lyons]

I have tried it a couple times with not so great success.
I guess I better practice up with it some more

John

[compuwade]

I use 4x6 sheets of "photo paper for ink jets" that I get from the local 99 cent store. It comes in 20 sheets for a buck. You do have to cover the back with regular paper, but the transfer works great. I usualy print out the transfer on a regular sheet of paper, then use masking tape to tape the sheet of photo paper over the transfer on the sheet of paper. Then I run it back through the printer. I then tape the copper clad on the photo paper and iron the back of the paper. Anyway, it works great for me.

Wade

[alanlan]

I soak them and go to peel them and...WTF! There is a clear plastic
coating on the copper that is fairly thick and does not budge much at all.
I was able to peel a couple boards but overall they were crap and not usable.

That's exactly what I found - I thought someone was spinning a yarn about how good this stuff was.  I also scrapped a board after a lot of hard work.

The only thought I've had is that you may be able to solder through the stuff on the solder pads.  Elsewhere, it's quite a neat protective coating - just a case of getting the paper backing off and that was hard enough.

[shadowmaster]

Same here but I used a Fujifilm super glossy photo paper. There's a plastic coat that will also adhere to your PCB that will be very difficult to remove.

Since then I've made countless trips to our local electronics mall and grabbed tons of their brochure for laptops, printers and other electronic items etc. Most of these brochures that they are giving away are those glossy ones and guess what, most of them folded into two, are exactly of the A4 size. I'm quite happy with my results using them. 

[bigchasbroon]

hmm i think ive been spending too much money, i use press n peel blue and its the equivilant of $5 a sheet. works perfect every time though..

[doc_drop]

I too was bitten by the new Staples paper.  I was making my first attempts at etching a couple of weeks ago. I read your tutorial, John, but when I tried I was mystified by melting plastic, a wierd thin film and terrible transfer. So, I did the magazine paper thing, and after 1 attempt I have a killer working Magnus Modulus. The magazine paper is the way to go for me...

[waltk]

The issue of which media and technique is "best" for toner transfer seems to come up on a regular basis.  Having tried most of them, I've identified which methods are best for me (label backing or ink jet transparency paper), and I expect different folks will always have different preferences based on their own experience.

John, there's no denying that you have obtained spectacular results (and have vast experience) with Staple photo basic paper.  I tried it once, and didn't have the same experience.  I have nearly full a box of 200 4X6 in. sheets of 53lb - 9mil photo basic gloss paper (item #666176).  Would you be interested to trade for a couple completed PCBs?

[John Lyons]

Yes please! PM'd.

john

[MicFarlow77]

Hey John,

I use a clay coated stock called 'Sterling Ultra Digital' made by NewPage Corporation.

I think you can request some samples from thier website www.newpagecorp.com

It is amazing paper. I use a heated laminator for pressure and heat. I run my boards throught the laminator 3 or 4 times and drop them in cold water. In a few minutes, the paper literally floats off. No scrubbing whatsoever. There is usually a little clay residue on the traces, but you can rub that a little under running water and you are left with pure toner.

I get my images done at Kinko's, with thier 4 color machines... leaves a nice heavy toner image.....

I'll send you some stuff to mess with when I send that ink out..... will PM you with info later in the day....

Thanks,

Mick

[frank_p]

I use the 53lb - 9mil Staples like John:  I had never had problem with this paper.
So if it's discontinued in Canada too, I will be me two in despair because I never found a paper that worked better for me.

[frank_p]

Well I've been to staples today to collect the couple of packages left of the "old paper".  The "new one" were mixed with the old ones...  So I asked the sales-man if the old paper was going to be discontinued.  So he checked in the codebar processor with the code of the pack of the "old paper".  And said there were no comments about being discontinued.  So there is two products with the same id number but with different codebars, and no relevant information from the guys on the floor.  Before going to the shop, I checked in the internet site and all I can say is that it's also unclear.  There is information on both papers on the site without notification if these are different products...  On the French Canadian site, the "old paper" appears first when you do a quick search and on the English Canadian site the "new one" appears first.  BUT, the the 30 sheets packages appears in the "clearance section" of the sites and I haven't found any packages of 30 sheets of the old stuff.  So my guess is also that the product will be completely replaced.  Oh, and I called on the service line at the back of the packs: it's a machine asking to leave a message...

So, thanks for the info John, I bought what I needed for a while, I am not using a lot; but it's my favorite so your message was a good signal for me.

P.S.: I don't know if you could, but since the 30 sheets packages are on clearance in Canada and they don't seem to replace it, you could perhaps try to command a few of them here to see if it's the good one and then more if it is...  For the 100 sheet packs it's more risky since both papers are on the same id number.

If you find a replacement that is convenient for you too, could you write a message in this topic ?

Thanks again !
H.F.P

[John Lyons]

Frank
Check out Mick's link above. That looks good. 500 sheets for $16!
I trust mick, he's anal like me

Interesting that the paper was available in the store.
Here the paper does not show up on line or in the store.

[frank_p]

Frank
Check out Mick's link above. That looks good. 500 sheets for $16!
I trust mick, he's anal like me

Interesting that the paper was available in the store.
Here the paper does not show up on line or in the store.

OUKI John, if this is working well, I'll be using it in the future.  Thanks for the advices Mick and John !
This is much less expensive...
Eeeeh... Anal... I am not talking about toilet paper...  
But at that price it's almost like this. 

[RedHouse]

Hey John,

I use a clay coated stock called 'Sterling Ultra Digital' made by NewPage Corporation.

I think you can request some samples from thier website www.newpagecorp.com

It is amazing paper. I use a heated laminator for pressure and heat. I run my boards throught the laminator 3 or 4 times and drop them in cold water. In a few minutes, the paper literally floats off. No scrubbing whatsoever. There is usually a little clay residue on the traces, but you can rub that a little under running water and you are left with pure toner.

I get my images done at Kinko's, with thier 4 color machines... leaves a nice heavy toner image.....

I'll send you some stuff to mess with when I send that ink out..... will PM you with info later in the day....

Thanks,

Mick

Which was it: Gloss Text, Gloss Cover, Dull text, Dull Cover, Matte Text, Matte Cover?

[n3wb]

I realize this topic is kind of old, but I'm looking for the best paper to use for toner transfer. What have you guys found works best for you?

Thanks for your advice 

[culturejam]

Which was it: Gloss Text, Gloss Cover, Dull text, Dull Cover, Matte Text, Matte Cover?

I'm curious, too. I'm betting it's one of the gloss options, but I'd prefer to know which one.

Also, Mic, what model laminator do you use?

Thanks.

[dedguy]

John thanks for the warning. I ran out to the two local Staples in my area and bought the last pack between the them. I don't etch boards now but I would like to in the future. If I go by any more stores I'll go in just to look.

[ubaid88]

I use transparency. And it transfers 100% of the toner.

The result depend on these factor:

Qulity of Toner.(Refilled one doesnot work good).
Surface of Copper
And Heat setting.

This is da result.