[The Lamuki's Belch. Reports, logs, assistance]Tube Screamer clone w/mods [in pr

[EARNEST]

Hello everyone.
This would be my first project in electronics (actually, this is the first project at all ).
I've ordered a bunch of components from Farnell (UK-based distributors). I will post my feedback about those guys and dealing with them later on, when I receive everything.
I've ordered sh1tload of resistors, capacitors, diodes, several ICs etc.
Most likely, I will try to read, analyze and check the BYOC's schematic of their OD2 Tube Screamer replica and then I will try to come up with more-or-less usable layout.
This part is the most challenging to me, since I've got no experience what so ever. I would need your help guys.
This is kind of my work-progress topic. I will post time to time any updates, but no doubt it will be quite slow progressing project, since I have some exams in few weeks time, plus I don't have appropriate (small tip) soldering iron. I am planning to buy Hakko 936 somewhere close to Malta (Europe) where I live.
Anyways, hope we will all have some fun. And hope you don't mind sharing your experience.
Goals:
1. I want to make it all by myself. So it would be almost 100% hand built(maybe I will buy an enclosure, or maybe I will try to make in by myself)
2. Earn some experience for future, more serious projects (amps)
3. Have some fun
Ok...the work name is "The Lamuki's Belch"...not the best, but I cannot come up with something better for now.
Thanks all in advance.

[nbabmf]

I like the name.

Are you planning to do any mods to the circuit or will it be the usual TS?

[EARNEST]

I am planning to mod it...actually it would be heavily modded TS

[BAARON]

You should get yourself a breadboard and try out all your mods on that before you solder anything up, so you know what they sound like before you commit things to perfboard.  It's easier to do that than it is to unsolder things and replace parts, especially when there's a mess of wires for controls coming off the board and getting in the way of your soldering iron.

[EARNEST]

Yeah, cheers mate. I was planning to do that too. I have a breadboard but it is a bit weird.

[EARNEST]

I partially received my components.
Weird thing tho...box alike capacitors have really really short leads Is it normal?
Also, some resistors are 0.125W...is it ok?

[EARNEST]

So guys, 1/8 resistors won't fry if I use them for TS?

[spaceace76]

nope, those should be fine. i personally think those 1/8th watt resistors are adorable 

and yes, those short leads are normal as well

[EARNEST]

I've tried to do this http://www.beavisaudio.com/bboard/projects/bbp_BoutiqueTubeScreamer_Rev1_1.pdf
I know nothing about electronics, trying to follow it.
Guys, I do not have a switch. How would I wire IN and OUT? :-/ Super lost.
Also, maybe you can suggest some good articles where I can read up on how to understand schematics and so on?
thanks

[EARNEST]

Damn it. I've tried to build TS for the 2nd time, made sure every components matches description and so on (except the 1uF+ cap, I've install NP 1uF cap).
Used MOSFET MC33502 chip

[Kearns892]

If you don't have any experience reading a schematic just use the breadboard layout. Make sure you go through after you are done though and use the breadboard layout to make sense of the schematic so you can learn from it.

[spaceace76]

for the breadboard, you won't want to use a switch, as it will make it more complicated to get it working. use the breadboard layout as suggested, and post some pics of it. we'll help you out from there

[EARNEST]

http://img9.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=10092009004.jpg
It works but in a weird way..
Volume pot is B100K,  when I turn it half way, the volume level decreases but I can hear it. Clock or anti clock wise@full = no changes.
Drive pot B500k, lugs facing down, turned all the way clockwise = sounds like there is no drive.
Tone B25K = cannot hear difference at all, something can be heard at like 12oclock

[spaceace76]

i think the opamp you're using has a different pinout than a 4558. do you have a datasheet from who you bought it from? i found one on google but check your supplier to be sure

[petemoore]

  Full TS is 'kinda' complicated really.
  Has more 'hurdles' and possible blocks than a simple booster with no switching.
  I used to build the circuits on perfboard with above board components and offboard components...whatever it took to make 'this and that' easily swapped out or added to, so value changes here and there are not too difficult.
  Never messed with a BBoard, but did make a 'testjig' which requires the circuit board have only the stripped-down version of the circuit [all the jacks, switching/wiring being in the jig and pre-tested, even some of the offboard wiring like the volume pot.
  I liked the idea that most everything is soldered except the 3 necessary offboard wires [ground, input and output].
  Anyway, the stripped down versions, put in the tested testjig certainly made it easier to debug the circuit boards, on many occasions I think.
  Access to 'certain' components on the 'mod friendly' perfboard designs fascilitated modification-access seemed to work out pretty good as far as solid structure / reliable performance while affording some mod-ability.

[EARNEST]

Waiting for 4558 chips. As soon as I get them, I will post some updates

[EARNEST]

i think the opamp you're using has a different pinout than a 4558. do you have a datasheet from who you bought it from? i found one on google but check your supplier to be sure

I checked RC4558P and MC33502, the pins are the same

[EARNEST]

In order to gain more xp, I've tried to build B.May's treble boost.
I've tried to read schematics & almost managed to come up with my own breadboard "layout".
Quick question: Can you check 22K ohm resistor line, line 17 (breadboard). The line has these elements in this sequence:
"-ve" -> 22K ohm -> 1nF -> empty -> "bridge" with line11 -> pinout B
Does it matter if I swap, let's say in this way: negative -> 1nf -> 22K ohm and so on... ?

[petemoore]

Does it matter if I swap, let's say in this way: negative -> 1nf -> 22K ohm and so on... ?
  I wouldn't because it might, and I'm too lazy and not quite sure if I could tell straight out whether this alteration would matter.
  Keeping the alterations down [like around 0], especially when trying to get one goin'...solidly recommendable.
  That said, I don't see anything in the re-arranged line of components that would actually block signal.
  Not exactly sure how the rolloff freq of the cap would change, check out AMZ's Labs notebook and R/C calculator.

[EARNEST]

Hm...I see, thanks.
Also, to get more xp, I am still trying to understand B.May's treble booster. I used 2n5088 transistor and I have really weird "overdrive". Is it normal?
Thanks.
Here is the sample file
http://rapidshare.com/files/280026395/bmay_treble_booster_test.mp3