[The Lamuki's Belch. Reports, logs, assistance]Tube Screamer clone w/mods [in pr

[spaceace76]

Q1A. Yes.
Q1B. Power filtering. not every power supply is all that clean or well regulated, and transients in the power supply equate to noise in your pedal. it's not always necessary, but usually if you're already going through the trouble of adding polarity protection it can't hurt to make room for filtering either.

Q2. Doesn't look like they did. Their designs have the gigging musician in mind, so they probably assume you'd be using the new pedal with a decent power supply.

Q3. I can't say much about PCB design, i haven't gotten into designing my own enough (not that i haven't done it) to look for serious design resources. hopefully someone can point us both in the right direction 

[EARNEST]

Cheers mate, u've been very helpful!

[EARNEST]

Can anyone check pls, if the layout is correct and if it is acceptable;
otherwise, how should i fix it? what should i have in mind when i draw it?
thanks
http://img200.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=renderd.gif

[EARNEST]

I have a couple of questions about BYOC's schematic.
---------

----------
Q1. The Mids Switch, SW4:
      a)Position On (left) activated: C4+C6 =>0.15 + 0.047 uF = ~0.2uF, thus around ~154Hz cut?
      b)Position Off(mid) activated: C6 is filters, so 0.047 Uf, ~720Hz?
      c)Position Om(right) activated: C5+C6 => 0.047+0.047 uF = ~0.1, ~ 339Hz cut?
Q2. The Clipping switch, SW3:
      a)Position On (left) activated: LED clipping
      b)Position Off (mid) activated: no clipping at all
      c)Position On (right) activated: Diodes D3 and D4
Am I right?
Thanks

Can anyone check pls, if the layout is correct and if it is acceptable;
otherwise, how should i fix it? what should i have in mind when i draw it?
thanks
http://img200.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=renderd.gif

[spaceace76]

Q1+2: looks right to me.

i'll try going over your pcb soon, and i'll let you know if i see anything wrong. it looks like the layout could be a bit tighter, but you should make sure everything's in the right spot before making huge changes.

[EARNEST]

I am working on a new layout, drawn with Eagle CAD

[EARNEST]

Layout http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uqwyooZWjc

[EARNEST]

Layout http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uqwyooZWjc

found a bug, fixing it right now

[EARNEST]

If I will use a stereo input jack, would i need to connect the negative lug of it to the 9V battery directly? If yes, then there owuld be no need to create another pad for the 9V negative terminal, right?, thus, this part is kinda useless?
http://img246.imageshack.us/i/23092009171348.png/

[spaceace76]

If I will use a stereo input jack, would i need to connect the negative lug of it to the 9V battery directly? If yes, then there owuld be no need to create another pad for the 9V negative terminal, right?, thus, this part is kinda useless?
http://img246.imageshack.us/i/23092009171348.png/

it wouldn't be necessary to put the negative lead on the board. it's sent to ground with the use of a mono cable in the stereo jack. plus, if you send it to the board, the battery will never be disconnected from the circuit, and your pedal will eat up batteries like no tomorrow. putting it on the stereo jack enables you to disconnect the battery when the cable is unplugged.

[EARNEST]

Everyday I learn something new Thanks, amigo.
Damn Need to re-draw the layout again Also, I printed it out and the pads are really tiny I am not sure if I will find eyelets of such small size.
P.S. revised version http://img8.imageshack.us/i/pcblayoutts808v05.png/

[EARNEST]

I am not sure if I can make this mod possible with jsut 1 switch:
http://www.muzique.com/lab/tstone.htm
Standard tone control vs mod'ed AMZ tone 6.
My idea was to put a SPDT switch before the 0.22 cap, but then I have some problems with the pot itself

[spaceace76]

it could be done with a 4PDT switch. here's a really sloppy representation of how it would be wired, thrown together in diylc in about 10 minutes. the transformer symbol is the closest it has to an inductor symbol.



these switches aren't hard to find. i saw a few with a quick googe search. the smallbear 4PDT at 12.99 is pretty pricey, though.

***PLEASE DOUBLE, TRIPLE, AND QUADRUPLE CHECK THIS***
it's very late and i just threw it together. please look it over before using it.

[EARNEST]

Thanks man, but i dont really know how 4PDT works :-/ Going to check it.
P.S. Also, I think I will try AMZ Tone 4 mode. But I've got an idea what you meant, cheers mate

[EARNEST]

Thanks man, but i dont really know how 4PDT works :-/ Going to check it.
P.S. Also, I think I will try AMZ Tone 4 mode. But I've got an idea what you meant, cheers mate

I couldn't find how to wire 3/4 PDT switches. Any help, pls?

[spaceace76]

beavisaudio has a great article on switches

http://beavisaudio.com/techpages/Switches/

so a 4PDT would be the same as a 3PDT, but with the extra pole.

[EARNEST]

I see, cheers mate. I will check it and post some updates later on.
P.S. it sux that u cant modify ur first post and the topic's details

[EARNEST]

Can anyone confirm my layout, please?



Schematic: http://www.muzique.com/schem/ts808.gif

[EARNEST]

Can anyone confirm my layout, please?



Schematic: http://www.muzique.com/schem/ts808.gif

Can anyone confirm my layout, please?



Schematic: http://www.muzique.com/schem/ts808.gif

Any help?

[spaceace76]

the only thing i see wrong is that either Q1 or Q2 is drawn with the wrong polarity. you have +9v going to opposite sides of the transistors. if you're using the exact same one in both positions, one will get +9v on it's collector (correct) and the other will get it on it's emitter (incorrect). is this just the pinout of the devices you're using? if not you just have to remember to flip one when building. get the datasheet from your supplier or google one, but be sure its the EXACT same one and double check the polarities you marked on the layout.

i don't see anything else wrong, but i'll go over it once more and let you know if i spot anything.