[The Lamuki's Belch. Reports, logs, assistance]Tube Screamer clone w/mods [in pr

[EARNEST]

thanks a lot, amigo.
Well, yeah, Q1 and Q2 are not going to be symmetrically installed.
Q1 has its collector on the most right side, the red positive trace.
so, Q1:  E   B   C
Q2 has its collector on the top most side, the red positive trace
so, Q2:   C
              B
              E

Thanks for pointing out. Also, I was wondering if polarity diode location matters? In theory (logically) it should matter, since it would be one of the first things on the pass of electricity? But is it possible to put the polarity diode in the end of the trace, where I have Vr?

[EARNEST]

Needed confirmation again, please



Also, I have a question about AC (DC) jack. How do I wire it with the input stereo and battery?
Thanks

[EARNEST]

Needed confirmation again, please



Also, I have a question about AC (DC) jack. How do I wire it with the input stereo and battery?
Thanks

One more thing, are eyelets that important? should i try to find the right size or the PCB would be find without them?

[spaceace76]

i'm not sure what you're doing with the diodes, shouldn't there be two? or are you going for asymmetrical clipping? the switch looks a bit different from the BYOC schematic. they have a variable resistor to ground, but i don't see it on yours. where you have the polarity diode is fine.

for the battery/dc jack:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_tb_dcjack.gif

and here if you're using a different switching profile:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=33&Itemid=27

as for eyelets, you'll want to use eyelets and find some drill bits that will accommodate the size of the leads you're working with. diodes tend to be a bit bigger, and so do IC legs, unless you socket them. the sockets usually run about the same size as cap/resistor leads. transistor/transistor socket leads usually run about the same size too. Make sure the wire you're using can be accommodated by your eyelets and bits as well. I use a 1/32 bit, and the standard eyelet that DIYLC uses, (2.1mm). For diodes you might want to increase the pad size to say, 2.3 or 2.5, and increase your bit size a small amount.

[EARNEST]

OH, sh1te. True about the distortion resistor (4.7K ohms). I've connected it to the Vr trace :-/
Good one Need to fix it, it is good that you noticed it. Thanks.
I am going to do another separate (since I am not sure what exactly I like) PCB for the diode clipping stage with a rotary switch.
The wire I am going to use is most probably of 24 AWG. You have a link to those eyelets, please?

[spaceace76]

Link? i guess you mean to the drill bits? For larger eyelets, just make the pads bigger in eagle and drill the hole larger once the PCB is ready.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=Tools+-+Drills

pretty much everything you need for stompbox drilling (except maybe a drill press) is on those 3 pages.

[EARNEST]

Ok thanks, the real problem for me now is to find chemicals and eyelets

[spaceace76]

If you live in america (i can't remember if you said you did or not) you can try radioshack. you probably wont find any etchant that way though. they don't get it in much.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102868

other than that, if you've got a mom and pop old style electronics store near you that's the best option. etchant has to be shipped ground, so it takes forever.

and you don't need to find eyelets, you make them when you drill for the components. you just need a drill (preferably a drill press) and a small sized bit, like the one's smallbear carries. smallbear has etchant as well, but again, has to be shipped ground, so it might take longer.

[EARNEST]

If you live in america (i can't remember if you said you did or not) you can try radioshack. you probably wont find any etchant that way though. they don't get it in much.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102868

other than that, if you've got a mom and pop old style electronics store near you that's the best option. etchant has to be shipped ground, so it takes forever.

and you don't need to find eyelets, you make them when you drill for the components. you just need a drill (preferably a drill press) and a small sized bit, like the one's smallbear carries. smallbear has etchant as well, but again, has to be shipped ground, so it might take longer.

I am from Europe, Malta Thanks, anyways

[EARNEST]

I will buy FeCl3 on monday. So hopefully the first "beta" would be ready next week

[spaceace76]

i'm sure by now you've read about the standard method for etching, so i won't bore you with tips on that.
a while ago someone posted this instructable:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Sponge-Ferric-Chloride-Method-Etch-Circuit-Bo/

basically you use a sponge instead of a huge bath of FeCl3, and because of the slight abrasiveness of the sponge, the etch goes much more quickly. maybe you can give it a shot? i've been meaning to try it out. either way, good luck with your first etch!

[EARNEST]

thanks mate. the only thing that worries me is the size of pads and traces. I want to keep them nice, smooth and "alive" ...and the last thing is quite difficult to achieve (from what I've heard) if the traces are thin

[EARNEST]

[UPDATE, 50% progress, MIGHT have bugs]
1. Tone mod have been implemented
2. Diode clipping stage, most probably, will be taken onto another PCB with a rotary switch
3. Fatness mod added (BYOC implementation, but maybe I will come up with something else)
4. Re-designed layout, some bugs were fixed (some might have been missed or added )
-----
Pictures: http://img202.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=ts808tonemod.png
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXqFLBy2_ys
----
Feedback:
Damn, I do not want to have a monster with sh1tload of switches but I am supa tempted to have all the possible mods.
In few hours I will get FeCl3....new updates are coming soon.
Hope to have some more replies from other members, not only spaceace76
Spaceace76, thanks a lot, dude. You are very helpful. Cheers.

[EARNEST]

Should I add a booster, if yes, which one? I would most probably mod it too, to have a volume booster and maybe gain/overdrive booster...anyways, any replies are welcomed. thanks
P.S. I've optimized my layout, some tracks are shorter...

[spaceace76]

Hope to have some more replies from other members, not only spaceace76

agreed! where is the rest of the forum? i know i'm not the only one with advice for you! i'm not even a big TS fan, i can't make wacky recommendations for you or anything...

(but here i go anyway)
for boosters, try looking on youtube for clips. everyone seems to have a different preference for that sort of thing.

and will someone else chime in here?! he could use our collective genius. at this point he and i might as well just email each other 

[EARNEST]

Hm...what kind of switch would i need to select between different capacitors?

[spaceace76]

*waits patiently for someone else to respond*

[EARNEST]

Yeah......

Anyways, On-On-On switch for sure.... DPDT toggle?

[EARNEST]

i'm not sure what you're doing with the diodes, shouldn't there be two? or are you going for asymmetrical clipping? the switch looks a bit different from the BYOC schematic. they have a variable resistor to ground, but i don't see it on yours. where you have the polarity diode is fine.

I've realised it was OK. 4.7K should go to Vr, not ground. need to re-draw. I don't know what you were talking about...

[EARNEST]

So what about that switch? Any help, pls?
P.S. I was thinking about adding the mid range booster, for extra scooping...what do you think about it?