New FV-1 based module

[PereatMundus]

Acutally Im thinking this, would be a nice match, given its compact size: BTDS20HP-1 PDF Datasheet

Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.

That switch won't work, according to the description the version they are selling is a CTS coded one, you need a switch that is Binary Coded Decimal (BCD) like the Lorlin ones you linked to.

EDIT: actually it will work if you want to access all 16 programs but the programs won't be in the correct order, for example position 2 on the switch will select program 5. If you only want to access 8 then it would be pretty confusing.

Yes and no, I didnt write to buy it from Profusion (where the PDF is linked to).
(although it may have "sounded" like that in the post previous to the one you quoted it wasn't my meening, ( thats why I linked the PDF in the last post not a link to that store))
But your correct they are only selling the CTS version. However it is avalible in BCD aswell (covered in the PDF) just not from them.
To keep the programs in "correct" order, really does not matter to me at all, neither does unused poles. Yet there would be a bit irritating to have say "empty" slots inbetween programs. (the switch does come in 8-10-12-16-40 positions etc. as are most of the other offerings from say mouser.)
thanks for your input thou! Suppose I shouldnt have linked the PDF from that place.
and the full version number would be
BTDS20HP-108-R20-3 or BTDS20HP-108-R20-4 or BTDS20HP-116-R20-3 or BTDS20HP-116-R20-4
To tiered right now to sit down and read binary and pick the best one of those ^^ gonna get some coffee

[EDIT]mmm cofffee
reason I pictured that switch is I really do prefer that make of rotary switch with minimal metal square enclosure and angled connectors. It makes for much tighter cleaner install. Tend to use those when most opt for the plastic or traditional large round ones. Sometimes there is a premium on price but I prefer them to others.
there are a few BCD ones in that package from other manufacturers aswell,

there is a premium on price but I prefer them to others. there are a few BCD ones in that package from other manufacturers aswell, DRS1604, DRS 20, 256-272,  BTDS 20HS 1 2 3   4

etc etc
not sure what to pick yet. hell if I find one  thats just a couple of mm smaller Ill pick that instead.
*Gonna build this into a 1590A, have done it with larger multi-pcb projects and the layout I have now would fit. However large plastic or traditional circular  housed selector will not.
THis type of Selector (or better yet the variant with 90Degree angled PCBready leads) together with 9mm-Alpha pots makes for PCBsoldering all the controls to the "motherboard"(with buffers and mix control) that the FV-1 Module connects to. Perfect for tight fit dual Board layout.

[octfrank]

Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.

That is the most important part, the hex code. I'm a bit reluctant to suggest a particular switch as I have not had the opportunity to try a lot of them. I've found what is common or easy to get in one area may be difficult to get in another so I don't want to suggest a part that is expensive to order then discover it doesn't work well.

Yea shipping from the US to Europe can be funny sometimes.
Although I order LOADS of things from the US. all electronics i use in projects, all enclosures. loads of guitar gear.
( I Live in Sweden)
<snip test>
Anyway in my experience fedex delivers in a few days only (but can be very expensive yea :/
Regular US Postal service however is -very good-
But (and I cannot stress this enough) Only when ordering from the West Coast (or central to Western side of the US)
"More or less" All the times I ordered something with Regular US-Post that originated there
I do get delivery within 10days

Good, we are in Los Angeles near LAX (Los Angeles International Airport)

However the times I ordered things that originated from LA or south eastern part of the US
things can indeed take forever to get to me

Uh, by LA do you mean Los Angeles or the state of Louisiana?

Now then, Wondering what Module to Order...
(and yes Im only building for my own personal use, although I keep getting
asked to build StompBoxes for other people, There is just too many fun projects
too do work on for my own use to have time for that. *working on a handful of
stompboxes aswell as an guitarAmp at the moment   )

Since Im mostly interested in building a dedicated Reverb Box, Module R01 and R02
are those of interest to me.
Really hard to decide thou..
For one Im fairly certain I'd be looking at Mono-in+Mono-out so the part thats
interesting is the different Modes.
Suppose I should take a week or so and really think over what would be best.

However, I'd love some thoughts and personal insights about the sounds avalible in
the two Modules. Could go the easy rout and just go by logic that the newest version
could have "better" sounds or have been more tuned.
yet that isnt always the case.

What would you say if asked to describe the R01 vs R02 module and its settings?
Personal View may differ thou I highly value it nonetheless!!!!!

Thanks again for taking the time to answer questions and supporting the DIY community!

Well R01 is mono-in/mono-out and R02 is mono-in/stereo-out. So I would suggest R01 for a first shot and if you want to go stereo out then R02 as the ping-pong delay sounds good in stereo as it bounces left and right. Note that the program names for the programs in each module on the OCT website link to short samples of each program so you can hear them. Since I couldn't possibly make samples of every program at every possible setting I tried to choose a representative setting so you could get the feel of the core algorithm for a program.

The buffering circuits I used to test boards/record samples are the ones in schematic form in the respective data sheets, op-amps were just TL074, nothing fancy or complex.

[PereatMundus]

Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.

That is the most important part, the hex code. I'm a bit reluctant to suggest a particular switch as I have not had the opportunity to try a lot of them. I've found what is common or easy to get in one area may be difficult to get in another so I don't want to suggest a part that is expensive to order then discover it doesn't work well.

Yep yep I noticed some wierd hexcode switches beeing avalible in a local Swedeish electronics catalogue I havent seen anywhere else. (avalible in loads of flavoirs and code-sets)
and other Hex switches made in germany I only see in european catalogues.
So yep I understand it'd be bad to suggest an overall favorite.
Afterall figuring out what switch is needed one can read from the pdf document and matched against switches datasheets.

Yea shipping from the US to Europe can be funny sometimes.
Although I order LOADS of things from the US. all electronics i use in projects, all enclosures. loads of guitar gear.
( I Live in Sweden)
<snip test>
Anyway in my experience fedex delivers in a few days only (but can be very expensive yea :/
Regular US Postal service however is -very good-
But (and I cannot stress this enough) Only when ordering from the West Coast (or central to Western side of the US)
"More or less" All the times I ordered something with Regular US-Post that originated there
I do get delivery within 10days

Good, we are in Los Angeles near LAX (Los Angeles International Airport)

Ah damned.. I always get that wrong   beeing the atlantic is on the Westcoast for me I get that mixed.

I Meant: that things originating towards the north american EASTcoast (NewYork) is real good delivery time on (less then 10days to europe).
the stuff ordered from North american WESTcoast (LosAngeles) seems to take forever to get to europe.

sorry for the mixup.

I guess stuff originated on the east-coast'ish side of north america take some insane route through Asia or take 3weeks to cross the US mainland.

However the times I ordered things that originated from LA or south eastern part of the US
things can indeed take forever to get to me

Uh, by LA do you mean Los Angeles or the state of Louisiana?

See above.   yep I meant Los Angeles but should have written south-West not east.

Suppose that'll take 35Days instead of just 10 then :/ Oh well, can't be helped I'd feel silly spending more on Fedex-shipping then the actual part so It'll have to work.

Now then, Wondering what Module to Order...
(and yes Im only building for my own personal use, although I keep getting
asked to build StompBoxes for other people, There is just too many fun projects
too do work on for my own use to have time for that. *working on a handful of
stompboxes aswell as an guitarAmp at the moment   )

Since Im mostly interested in building a dedicated Reverb Box, Module R01 and R02
are those of interest to me.
Really hard to decide thou..
For one Im fairly certain I'd be looking at Mono-in+Mono-out so the part thats
interesting is the different Modes.
Suppose I should take a week or so and really think over what would be best.

However, I'd love some thoughts and personal insights about the sounds avalible in
the two Modules. Could go the easy rout and just go by logic that the newest version
could have "better" sounds or have been more tuned.
yet that isnt always the case.

What would you say if asked to describe the R01 vs R02 module and its settings?
Personal View may differ thou I highly value it nonetheless!!!!!

Thanks again for taking the time to answer questions and supporting the DIY community!

Well R01 is mono-in/mono-out and R02 is mono-in/stereo-out. So I would suggest R01 for a first shot and if you want to go stereo out then R02 as the ping-pong delay sounds good in stereo as it bounces left and right. Note that the program names for the programs in each module on the OCT website link to short samples of each program so you can hear them. Since I couldn't possibly make samples of every program at every possible setting I tried to choose a representative setting so you could get the feel of the core algorithm for a program.

The buffering circuits I used to test boards/record samples are the ones in schematic form in the respective data sheets, op-amps were just TL074, nothing fancy or complex.

Ok, yep Ive been listening a bit to the samples. Though I'll go over them somewhat more in-depth before I order.
I understand I asked you a someone hard question. (one that isnt easily answered or one that possibly "shouldn't" be answered by the seller of the product in question).
Sorry bout that.
Although I think you may have missinterprited what I said about mono-in/out, or rather I didnt express it clearly. After all I am constantly aware that English is not my mother-tounge while communicating on International Forums
I simply meant that If I'd choose the R02 Module, my implementation in the finished product would indeed be mono-in stereo-out.
Yet in real world-application the stereo-out would mostly be mixed to mono, in most situations.
As in a mono-in/out would mostly work just as well (for me) as mono-in/stereo-out
The other differences between the two is what's interesting to me, is pretty much all I meant.

BUT
You got a point, after all the way I build things has been to make a first-run of a project, gather Ideas through building it  and after its gone through some actual use.
Then Sell that "Beta"project and collect some real real decent cash(boutiq prices beeing what they are.. insanity) to make the Second Revision so much better.

So yea.. base a project of the R01 do some testing on that, then onto the "Real" version I'll keep for myself.
(after all can't really decide on things like theese without doing a very immediate and real A/B comparason with the 2modules.

Thanks Oncemore for all your answers on this subject. Cant think of more questions. Time for me to really  make my mind up on wether or not I'll make a choice on one of the modules or just grab both R01+R02 at once.

I'll be sending an email your way during the next week or so once I settle on a choice.
Takle care!
/Johannes Johansson

[armstrom]

Frank,
Since this thread has been brought back from the dead... Have you made any progress on a mono-in/stereo-out version of the G01? I really like the idea of having reverb available on all the programs and hanving the wet/dry mixing handled entirely inside the FV-1 and the G01 is the only module to offer this capability, but I would also like to be able to make use of a stereo chorus/flanger since this will be incorporated into a mono-in stereo-out combo amp.
-Matt

[octfrank]

Since this thread has been brought back from the dead... Have you made any progress on a mono-in/stereo-out version of the G01?

No, I haven't really had any requests for that set. But if there is interest in it I'll try to make time to put one together.

[armstrom]

so far I'm the only one it seems I'm working on a solid state amp in the spirit of the old JC120 and I'm planning to use one of your modules to provide the effects. I can make it work with a mono in/mono out module but it would be extra spiffy to have stereo chorus like the JC120 did

[octfrank]

I can make it work with a mono in/mono out module but it would be extra spiffy to have stereo chorus like the JC120 did

I've never played a JC120, is the chorus in phase or 90 or 180 out between the speakers?

[armstrom]

I've never played a JC120, is the chorus in phase or 90 or 180 out between the speakers?

To be honest, I'm not sure. I've read some claims online that the speakers were wired out of phase to achieve a stereo chorus effect, but that sounds like it would be a waste of output volume due to destructive interference between the two speakers in close proximity to each other. I've posted a question on the ssguitar message board.. There's a JC120 thread going over there so I just asked what made the two effects "stereo" I'll let you know what I find out.

of course, the more I think about it.. the more I might just go with a dual mono setup.. I can imagine a stereo chorus or vibrato effect could be difficult to mic.
-Matt

[PereatMundus]

Since this thread has been brought back from the dead...

I guess I should reply something to that remark

Could say Im sorry to bump an old thread (already done that).
But do feel this thread was the correct one to pose questions in. And eventhou I talked to Frank in PMs.
I feel as he did that its best to keep discussions about the module in the thread, so that others might get some more info out of it

Afterall, from what I can tell this is the absolute BEST way to DIY a reverb pedal.
Couldnt hurt to get the thread up top again

I'm all for the community based FV-1 project, but really.
To grab this module with all the super-tricky parts done. Makes it possible for all "non-advanced" people to make a
TOP notch Reverb pedal, that from what I can tell vastly outpreforms the other DIYReverbs.

I didnt find this thing through searching on the forums, only when I asked around did I get a hint about it

[armstrom]

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to imply you shouldn't have bumped this old thread. I agree with your statements I'm glad the thread was bumped since it reminded me to follow up on my previous query about the mono in/ stereo out module. Sorry for the confusion.
-Matt

[PereatMundus]

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to imply you shouldn't have bumped this old thread. I agree with your statements I'm glad the thread was bumped since it reminded me to follow up on my previous query about the mono in/ stereo out module. Sorry for the confusion.
-Matt

Cool, No worries
I posted "just in case" really.
Hope you get your build started

[armstrom]

Ok, seems I will probably go with the mono in/out module. When I asked about the "stereo" effects on the JC120 the answer I got was that the effect was only applied to one of the channels....So I don't think I'm interested in emulating that. I will just split the mono signal into the two power amps and be done with it.

-Matt