New FV-1 based module

[aron]

Frank,

If I read correctly, the effects are parallel right? So just by turning down the reverb level on program 0, then you should get delay only right?

[octfrank]

Maybe I am missing something obvious-if you ground the 3.3V connection of one pot, aren't you grounding all the pots?

This is what I intended:

If you just turn POT0 all the way down, would this eliminate the reverb from the output entirely?

Basically, yes. It is used as a coefficient in the program to mix in the reverb. Using switches makes it easier to use your foot on stage to just stomp a switch and have the reverb or effect go away.

These modules are just too cool!  As for an effects only module, I like everything on the GO1 but would give up the flanger for a compression effect.
How the heck do you make any money form these?  Good work!
Scott

Never said we make money from them 

Seriously, we decided that making it more affordable to people and having a larger customer base was better than charging a lot and having only a few customers.

[octfrank]

Frank,

If I read correctly, the effects are parallel right? So just by turning down the reverb level on program 0, then you should get delay only right?

Correct Aron, just suggesting the switches to make it easier to use on stage.

[Ice-9]

Ah ! I see now, The effects are running parrallel and can be switched out by grounding the 3.3v side of the pot. This opens up so many new posibilities.

[octfrank]

Have not tried this but it should work...

Have now tried it and it works fine. Going to have to update the example app in the datasheet for G01 to include the switches. Thanks to Ice-9 for mentioning that he would like to be able to turn the effect off and keep the reverb.

[darwin_deathcat]

Looking at the schematic, am I correct in thinking that I use the single pole 8 position rotary switch to select the effect? I'm 90% sure that this is the case, but I want to make sure. The main reason is that if I use this module, I'd be placing it in a box that I'm repurposing, and that has a limited amount of space for controls. I'd like to do two stomps (following the switching scheme introduced in the previous several post) to turn off the reverb and effects independantly, the 3 pots, and one rotary switch. Also, I think I have this straight, but I want to make sure: this module has dry signal feed thru, right? i.e., if I turn off both the effect AND the reverb, the dry signal still comes through? If not, I'll just do an analog bypass with a passive resistive mixer at the output. Any info is greatly appreciated...

Likely, this will be an early Christmas gift to myself!

Cheers,

DDC

[octfrank]

Yes, the SP8T switch selects the program. The 74HC148 generates the 3-bit binary code that goes to the S_0, S_1 and S_2 inputs of the module. If you happen to have a binary encoder switch already you could use or other switching scheme. The one in the example schematic was just a way to make a cheap encoder with easily available parts, binary switch encoders tend to be a bit more expensive.

Basically yes, when the switches on the pots are closed the reverb or effect is no longer active and you just get dry signal.

We are about to release the R02 set, a mono-in/stereo-out reverb and delay set. Hope to have some examples on the site later today.

[darwin_deathcat]

Very cool! That simplifies design considerations immensely! I have a crappy fender starcaster chorus that recently died, so I was thinking to gut it and reuse the housing for this board. I got the thing for like $20 on e-bay anyway, (see this thread: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=75125.0), so i'm not to terribly heartbroke it died. It gives me the impetus to make into something cooler! nayway, the main reason I bought the thing was that it has a very nice metal chassis, and has a real dpdt stomp bypass, 5 pots, and a nice battery compartment. Given the switching and controls configuration you have just confirmed for me, it will be pretty easy to use all the pre-existing control spots for use with the octoboard.

Controls layout of the starcaster ("o" is a pot, and "*" is the stompswitch):
_________
|              |
|    o  o     |
|  o  o  o   |
|              |
|              |
|      *      |
|_______|

I'd likely keep the three bottom pots as the three variable controls for the octoboard, keep the current stomp for turning the effect on/off, use one of the upper "pot" positions for the sp8t effect-selector rotary switch, and then put a spdt mini-toggle switch in the other upper "pot" position to turn the reverb on/off.

I see the functionality of this control scheme this way: with reverb toggle "on", this effect is always a reverb, and I can selectively activate the effect in addition to the 'verb by stomping. With the 'verb toggle "off", the pedal is essentially in "bypass" mode, and becomes like a normal effects pedal where stomping the switch "bypasses" the effect (in this case, turns the effect on or off without messing with the dry throughput). And it will be pretty easy to get this functionality given that I don't have to mess with any mixer circuitry or have any "blend" pot's taking up pedal layout space. I'm a blues harp player, so reverb is something I'll use pretty consistently, and won't ever really need to stomp "off" during a song. I'd only really ever switch it off between songs. But the effects will be nice to be able to stomp on/off during a song, regardless of whether I'm using the reverb or not. Also, I'd only really ever switch effects between songs too, or when I'm laying out, so the rotary selector switch idea works well here, saves mega layout space, and will be easy to functionalize and use.

One other thing: In an early post in this thread, you were soliciting ideas for future sets. I like the mono in/stereo out idea you mentioned, and I have another interesting idea. i was reading through all the info on the spin semi site, and it seems like there is a real potential for making a really cool set of pitch-shift/octave patches for the fv-1. Especially if one could use both channels simultaneously. ie, have one channel do pitch shift down while the other pitch-shifts up. Depending on the interval of the shifts, you'd then have chord effect (could have one for major and another for minor chords) or an up/down octave effect (one up, one down, one up, two down etc.). You could easily come up with eight useful options for this. I imagine that the tracking would be pretty good since it would all be done digitally... Just a thought anyway...

Thanks for the info!

[Ice-9]

I have found this option for a switch that selects the 8 effects or can even switch the external eeprom as well given 16 switch positions, with only 4 connections and no need for an expensive encoder or extra circuitry, will do the job very cheaply at £3 ish. I have incorperated it into my FV-1 and it is 100% working.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=655+3235#header

[Taylor]

Thanks for this switch recommendation. I've been working with the FV-1 and couldn't find a suitable switch.

[octfrank]

I have found this option for a switch that selects the 8 effects or can even switch the external eeprom as well given 16 switch positions, with only 4 connections and no need for an expensive encoder or extra circuitry, will do the job very cheaply at £3 ish. I have incorperated it into my FV-1 and it is 100% working.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=655+3235#header

Nice find! Never seen these before, looks like they can be special ordered in the states: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=090SPEC&MPN=BCK1002

Seems Allied is the US arm of RS, learn something new every day.

[MetalGuy]

Nice find! Never seen these before, looks like they can be special ordered in the states: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=090SPEC&MPN=BCK1002
Seems Allied is the US arm of RS, learn something new every day.

If you're ordering from Allied you can shoot straight for the right encoder and save yourself some trouble :

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9480431

Refer to the 4-Bit Binary Code Hexadecimal-16 Position table in datasheet (in the middle).

Other online stores have it in stock as well.

[CalonDdraig]

If anyone knows of a UK distributor or someone who's selling modules on, do let me know... I'd be keen to buy one of these... looks like a really cool module. The FV-1 is a pretty impressive DSP too and at the price mentioned for the modules from US distributors - impressive on that front too.

Ohh, nice site/forum by the way! Hopefully I'll have the chance to post a bit.

Cheers,

Calon

[Taylor]

There is a UK distributor:

http://www.spinsemi.com/distributors.html

[armstrom]

Sorry to dig up an old post, but do you have any plans to offer a stereo in and out program set? I would be interested in a program set that provides a fully mixed signal with "combination" effects (Reverb + Chorus, Reverb + Phaser, Reverb + Tremolo, etc...) I understand this would cut into any delay time available for a reverb + delay implementation, but that would be a fair trade-off. I like your fully mixed algorithms because it allows me to mix the two effects into the dry signal independently rather than have a combined "wet" signal that has to be mixed externally.  I can't fill the minimum order for a custom program set so either have to wait for a fully stereo set to become available or live with a mono solution (I suppose I could drop the cash for a pair of modules and link the control circuitry (pots and switches) to keep them in sync... but that leaves a lot of improvement on the table compared to a true stereo implementation for effects like chorus and rotary speaker simulation)

-Matt

[octfrank]

I've been trying to get time to do a stereo set like that, just never seems to be enough hours in the day. Also been trying to do a set with things like aliasing, bit crunching, etc.

[PereatMundus]

Hey

Old thread yep, although Im pretty sure this would be the proper place to post beeing the official thread from OCT

So, Im rebuilding/re-housing all my pedals theese days and time has come for the reverb.

Started asking general questions in This thread .
Although I was first looking mostly on other options 2people's responce and some research lead me to decide that your Module is the way to go.

From what I can tell you recomend this:
Lorlin HEX ROTARY SWITCH W/STOP
UK supplier
US supplier
To use for controlling the board.

Is that still the case? Or are there some other convenient way?

Perhaps This Rotary Switch Linked from a similar FV-1 based thing.

I seen some other choices But seems far to complicated to warrent there benefits?

Also since this is quite the old thread, I do wonder if your Modules are still avalible?
@ http://www.oct-distribution.com/

And all the talk about UK distributor, does that meen its not possible for us in europe to buy from you?
(Ofcourse I understand we need to pay extra shipping, thats fint )

Also open questions to anyone:
Is there a PCB/Perf layout floating about for the buffers and mix circuit to ad to this board?
something like the stuff covered in the pdf's on OCT's site
I cant seem to find any build reports involving this module, no pictures no nothing?
Anyone got a link?

Thanks for your time


I did find some strangeness like:

http://www.echotapper.nl/wp/?p=151

EDIT: although Im better suited with your TL074 / Tl072 buffers and examples from the PDFs *working on a layout with that in between writing this

A place where you can buy the daughtercard on the picture below to go along with the SKRM Module from OCT.

THis looks Huge O.o is the daughterboard really needing to be that big? Seems I totally misscalculated the number of parts needed.

EDIT: I see "daughterboard" is really the wrong use of the word, what I am refering to is the board in the picture that the OCT module is connected ontop of.

[octfrank]

From what I can tell you recomend this:
Lorlin HEX ROTARY SWITCH W/STOP
UK supplier
US supplier
To use for controlling the board.

Is that still the case? Or are there some other convenient way?

Use what ever method is best for you. In the example schematics with the modules I used a SP8T rotary switch and some logic because I had it at hand and it was a low cost solution. Others use the encoders and other use micros (usually also driving a 7-segment LED to display program number).

Also since this is quite the old thread, I do wonder if your Modules are still avalible?
@ http://www.oct-distribution.com/

Oh yeah, they are. There has been a big increase in interest in them recently. Call or email to order, we accept Paypal so you don't need to email your credit card number to us.

And all the talk about UK distributor, does that meen its not possible for us in europe to buy from you?
(Ofcourse I understand we need to pay extra shipping, thats fint )

Actually the UK distributor only handles the FV-1, not the modules so you order direct from us. Shipping is a bit expensive so you may want to see if some friends are interested and we can ship the modules to you and you can send them off to your friends. If shipped by a shipping service like FedEx or UPS then it is faster and traceable but can be very expensive. If by normal mail/post then it is cheaper and does get there but can take weeks. We have no idea why it can take so long.

Also open questions to anyone:
Is there a PCB/Perf layout floating about for the buffers and mix circuit to ad to this board?
something like the stuff covered in the pdf's on OCT's site
I cant seem to find any build reports involving this module, no pictures no nothing?
Anyone got a link?

I've not seen one, maybe I need to toss one together and post it (along with the 1,000,000 other things I need to do on a daily basis )

http://www.echotapper.nl/wp/?p=151

A place where you can buy the daughtercard on the picture below to go along with the SKRM Module from OCT.

THis looks Huge O.o is the daughterboard really needing to be that big? Seems I totally misscalculated the number of parts needed.

EDIT: I see "daughterboard" is really the wrong use of the word, what I am refering to is the board in the picture that the OCT module is connected ontop of.

That is Piet's board, his board is designed to mimic particular vintage delays and repeats so he may have used external filter structures to get a particular sound. From the sound clips I have heard he does a wonderful job of emulating these vintage sounds. So for a basic effect pedal his design may be too much and you probably want to use the basic examples in the SKRM data sheets. If you want the sounds he is doing then order his kit and the programmed SKRM module from him, I do not have his program set but if lots of people in the US want to order the kit from him and the module from us to save paying import duties on the module back into the US let me know and I'll ask him if I can get the program set to sell modules based on it.

[PereatMundus]

Thanks for your reply, very nice that your supporting the DIYcommunity

Use what ever method is best for you. In the example schematics with the modules I used a SP8T rotary switch and some logic because I had it at hand and it was a low cost solution. Others use the encoders and other use micros (usually also driving a 7-segment LED to display program number).

OK
I linked those:

Lorlin HEX ROTARY SWITCH W/STOP
UK supplier
US supplier

Because it was mentioned previously in the thread:

I have found this option for a switch that selects the 8 effects or can even switch the external eeprom as well given 16 switch positions, with only 4 connections and no need for an expensive encoder or extra circuitry, will do the job very cheaply at £3 ish. I have incorperated it into my FV-1 and it is 100% working.

Nice find! Never seen these before, looks like they can be special ordered in the states:

If you're ordering from Allied you can shoot straight for the right encoder and save yourself some trouble :
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9480431
Refer to the 4-Bit Binary Code Hexadecimal-16 Position table in datasheet (in the middle).

Just trying to figure out the right Hex-rotary switch to go along with this.
would be nice to build with the use of a single rotaryswitch to control it, no extra logic, so save on space and wireing.

Acutally Im thinking this, would be a nice match, given its compact size: BTDS20HP-1 PDF Datasheet

Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.

Shipping is a bit expensive so you may want to see if some friends are interested and we can ship the modules to you and you can send them off to your friends. If shipped by a shipping service like FedEx or UPS then it is faster and traceable but can be very expensive. If by normal mail/post then it is cheaper and does get there but can take weeks. We have no idea why it can take so long.

Yea shipping from the US to Europe can be funny sometimes.
Although I order LOADS of things from the US. all electronics i use in projects, all enclosures. loads of guitar gear.
( I Live in Sweden)
In my experience all the "Magic"/"Missfortune" in shipping is what happens within the US.
See I regularly (monthly)(this last year or so) order gear from
*electronics supplier([Mouser.com]because of the free shipping)
*guitar-Hardware/Parts[GFS(guitarfetish.com]
*custom handpainted/powderCoated Hammond enclosures[Pedalpartsplus.com and others])
[I guess Hammond enclosures are manufactured in the US or something, Its cheaper for me
to buy handpainted and/or powdercoated custom painted enclosures from the US including shipping,
then walking down to my local supplier and buy a stock unfinished hammondBox]
(and been buying things from the US a few times/year for some 10years)

Anyway in my experience fedex delivers in a few days only (but can be very expensive yea :/
Regular US Postal service however is -very good-
But (and I cannot stress this enough) Only when ordering from the West Coast (or central to Western side of the US)
"More or less" All the times I ordered something with Regular US-Post that originated there
I do get delivery within 10days
However the times I ordered things that originated from LA or south eastern part of the US
things can indeed take forever to get to me

Theese kind of "Deadzones" in postal service exists in europe too ( I lived in Rome for a few years, Italian
postal service is complete and utter lunacy no wonder some ebay sellers refuse to send to Italy )

More too the point,
I'm thinking I'd be willing to order a single module anyway, could take forever to get
people together for a group buy.
And even if It'd take 5weeks   to get delivery with US Mail I feel thats preferable
then spending some 35? US$ for FedEx.
Also when ordering things for less then 1000SEK (about 200US$) I dont have to pay Import duties.

That is Piet's board, his board is designed to mimic particular vintage delays and repeats so he may have used external filter structures to get a particular sound...

Ok, just got a bit surprised finding that while looking for buffer/mix boards to connect the module to.
And your right that's definatly overkill for what I'm after, thanks for the extra info thou. It certanly is
an interesting piece of kit.

Now then, Wondering what Module to Order...
(and yes Im only building for my own personal use, although I keep getting
asked to build StompBoxes for other people, There is just too many fun projects
too do work on for my own use to have time for that. *working on a handful of
stompboxes aswell as an guitarAmp at the moment   )

Since Im mostly interested in building a dedicated Reverb Box, Module R01 and R02
are those of interest to me.
Really hard to decide thou..
For one Im fairly certain I'd be looking at Mono-in+Mono-out so the part thats
interesting is the different Modes.
Suppose I should take a week or so and really think over what would be best.

However, I'd love some thoughts and personal insights about the sounds avalible in
the two Modules. Could go the easy rout and just go by logic that the newest version
could have "better" sounds or have been more tuned.
yet that isnt always the case.

What would you say if asked to describe the R01 vs R02 module and its settings?
Personal View may differ thou I highly value it nonetheless!!!!!

Thanks again for taking the time to answer questions and supporting the DIY community!

[slacker]

Acutally Im thinking this, would be a nice match, given its compact size: BTDS20HP-1 PDF Datasheet

Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.

That switch won't work, according to the description the version they are selling is a CTS coded one, you need a switch that is Binary Coded Decimal (BCD) like the Lorlin ones you linked to.

EDIT: actually it will work if you want to access all 16 programs but the programs won't be in the correct order, for example position 2 on the switch will select program 5. If you only want to access 8 then it would be pretty confusing.