Guitar FX Pedal mods (beginner)

Started by Guitarfreak, November 11, 2009, 05:36:28 PM

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Guitarfreak

Hello, my name is Jake and I am looking forward to modding a few of my pedals that I have acquired over the last 6 years.  I have become very good at modding electric guitar circuitry, but I am not familiar with the active circuitry in pedals.

I want to mod my DS-1 because I don't like the way that it sounds now, but with a few component swaps I think it can be opened up a bit.  It's a newer DS-1 that went for about $39.  There is really no bass response and it has very low power in that range.  I would like it to have a bit more output as well, a lot more output if it's possible, but I'd guess that that means swapping out basically every component for higher tolerance ones or ones of different values.  There is this high frequency buzzing and/or fuzziness to the tone, makes it sound cheap, I'd like to get rid of that.

http://www.erikhansen.net/?page_id=28
I am looking to do a combination of the minimal mod and minimal mod pt. II.  Can someone tell me if swapping out these components will give it the sound that I desire.  I'd also like to come to an understanding about which components in the design are the ones that cause the above problems so that I am not working blindly.

Also I'd like to mod my Metal Master, but I'm not sure if there are any good mods out there for it.  I am not sure if this is in the correct section, so tell me if there is a better place for it.  Thank You.

ralley

#1
This is not a direct answer to your question but a pointer to some more information: user 5thumbs has written a fantastically comprehensive document on building and/or modifying the DS-1 check this thread for his document (30 odd pages worth): http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=76021.0.

Edit: I think you've also posted this in the wrong section, "Beginner Project" is reserved for discussion of Aron's beginner project.  I'm sure he'll move this thread soon..
Sender lawyers, guns and money
The sh*t has hit the fan.
   - Warren Zevon

Guitarfreak

Cool thanks.  I am getting ready to order my components and everything else is fine except I can't find a certain kind of capacitors.  I am using Mouser.com and I need two .047uf caps but not the standard poly film kind, I need whatever the 'top hat' kind are.  I am not sure what they are called because I have never used them before.  Is there a name for them?  They're not supercapacitors right?

P.S. sorry I posted in the wrong section lol.  I realized as soon as I posted but I couldn't find a way to delete or move the post so...

spaceace76


petemoore

I am getting ready to order my components and everything else is fine except I can't find a certain kind of capacitors.  I am using Mouser.com and I need two .047uf caps but not the standard poly film kind, I need whatever the 'top hat' kind are. 
  Box-Film type ? I'd use these or the 'chicklets', could be someone recommended Metal-Film type...use of those'd work, boils down to the actual Uf value more than anything else/nearly exclusively...maybe there's some difference?
  I am not sure what they are called because I have never used them before.  Is there a name for them?
  Yes, capacitors are generally named after the type of material used to make them, 'box' refers to the shape of the body.
  They're not supercapacitors right? Right.
  Sometimes 'metal film' or 'tantalum' caps are recomended, but I just stick with the film types usually, tants are polarized.
  Make sure the voltage rating is: larger than the applied voltage, not so large that the cap won't fit on the board.
  Don't reverse polarize polarized capacitors [electrolytics, tantalums anyway.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Guitarfreak

#5
Quote from: spaceace76 on November 12, 2009, 09:23:21 AM
do you mean electrolytic capacitors?

YES, electrolytic, those are the ones haha.  They looked like a lengthened 'top hat' or something haha.

Quote from: petemoore on November 12, 2009, 09:56:35 AM
 Make sure the voltage rating is: larger than the applied voltage, not so large that the cap won't fit on the board.

How do I find out the voltage load?  It is for an effect pedal so is the voltage load 9v or something different?

ianmgull

If you're running off of a 9v battery or standard boss PS the circuit will run around 9v. It's not a bad idea to give yourself a bit of extra clearance though. For that reason most people use at least 16v if not higher as there isn't going to be a significant increase in capacitor size.

Guitarfreak

Do resistors need to exceed the voltage load as well?  How about diodes?

ianmgull

Resistors are rated in watts. For a DS-1 (and the vast majority of projects around here) .25watt resistors are fine. Most diodes will suffice as well. (Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here)

Guitarfreak

Will I need to get any kind of different tools for doing this?  Currently I've got a soldering iron that operates at 15w or 30w.  Do I need anything smaller or less powerful because of the small circuitry or so I don't warp the board?

Hupla

Quote from: Guitarfreak on November 12, 2009, 02:09:22 PM
Will I need to get any kind of different tools for doing this?  Currently I've got a soldering iron that operates at 15w or 30w.  Do I need anything smaller or less powerful because of the small circuitry or so I don't warp the board?

The soldering Iron is grand.
Completed builds: BSIAB2
Pedals to build: Dr.Boogey, TS-808

Guitarfreak

Lol, I guess that means it's alright.  Should I use it at 15w or 30w?

ianmgull

Start at 15w. If it doesn't get the solder flowing go to 30w ;-)

Hupla

Quote from: Guitarfreak on November 12, 2009, 02:56:46 PM
Lol, I guess that means it's alright.  Should I use it at 15w or 30w?

Sorry ha That's Irish talk for ya :)
Completed builds: BSIAB2
Pedals to build: Dr.Boogey, TS-808

Guitarfreak

Haha, great help guys, I really appreciate it.  One last thing, I wasn't able to find one component for one of the mods.  One of them calls for a Burr Brown OPA213PA to go in the U1 space.  This is for the SD-1 mod.  I wasn't able to find the component on Mouser, would I have to buy it from a manufacturer directly?  I can't even seem to find the space labeled U1 on the board itself either.  The chip is marked IC1, so that's not it.

tiges_ tendres

Quote from: Guitarfreak on November 12, 2009, 03:13:07 PM
Haha, great help guys, I really appreciate it.  One last thing, I wasn't able to find one component for one of the mods.  One of them calls for a Burr Brown OPA213PA to go in the U1 space.  This is for the SD-1 mod.  I wasn't able to find the component on Mouser, would I have to buy it from a manufacturer directly?  I can't even seem to find the space labeled U1 on the board itself either.  The chip is marked IC1, so that's not it.

For the Boss distortion, there is only one op-amp.  So in this case IC1 is U1.

Also, save yourself some time.  Go to http://www.smallbearelec.com/ rather than mouser.  This website is geared towards pedal enthusiasts.

I think this might be close enough to the part you are looking for:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=584
Try a little tenderness.

Guitarfreak

#16
I am still having a bit of trouble finding the right capacitor (or at least knowing when it is the correct one)

On Mouser: There is a choice for Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded, Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Screw Terminal, Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - SMD, Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Snap In.  I don't know which to use.

On Smallbear:  How do I find what the tolerance values are?

spaceace76

that's a pretty low value for an electrolytic. they typically come in values of 1uf=1microfarad, which is sometimes abbreviated mf. you'll usually see uf though.

here's the value you're looking for on smallbear, it's the highest value in the dropdown menu.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=162

Guitarfreak

#18
I just updated my question lol, I realized that I copied down the wrong value from the original mod and that it is indeed 1uf.  What is the 'leaded' aspect of the electrolytic?  Is this the normal kind?

ianmgull

Quote from: Guitarfreak on November 13, 2009, 12:42:18 PM
I am still having a bit of trouble finding the right capacitor (or at least knowing when it is the correct one)

On Mouser: There is a choice for Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded, Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Screw Terminal, Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - SMD, Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Snap In.  I don't know which to use.

On Smallbear:  How do I find what the tolerance values are?

You want Leaded Electrolytic from Mouser.