need help, esv fuzz (first build)

Started by Skitarg, November 12, 2009, 04:06:00 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Skitarg

I completed the pedal and tried it on without soldering the transistors to the sockets. It worked when I pushed em down so I figured Ill solder them on when im pressing and after it didnt work. I tried resoldering them again but still nothin and now the sockets are full of solder. Can I just remove the transistorsockets and solder the transistors right on the PCB or do I need to get one of those solder-vacuumcleaner things and clean them?

Philippe

#1
If using transistor sockets, you only need to solder the pins to the PCB. This allows you to switch or change devices. In the event that you inadvertantly soldered the transistors directly into the sockets themselves, you might want to consider R&Ring the sockets (i.e. remove them & put new ones in). You may have created a solder bridge of sorts. If running with Ge transistors, heat-sink them while soldering...I generally use a pair of hemostats from my medicinal 'stashbox'.  :icon_wink:

Skitarg

crap then. I thought I was supposed to solder the transistors into the holes in the sockets (they wouldn´t stick otherwise!). It shouldn´t be a bridge somewhere since it worked for a while. I´ll proberly replace the sockets then. Is there a certain kind of transistorsockets to use for Germanium Transistors (AC127/01)? if so what are they called?

Philippe

Mill-Max T0-5 (Mouser 575-93103) or In-Line (Mouser 575-113120) depending on your PCB hole patterns.  Small Bear stocks these items.

petemoore

  Pulling imbedded sockets is ugly...
  The sockets can withstand ~high temperatures of soldering, sometimes transistors can't.
  Most people would use solder wick to remove the  solder I think, being careful to not overheat the pads or traces.
  I have pulled straight-line sockets for transistors, using little by little on each pad method [end pad, middle pad, other end, slowly rocking the socket farther up, careful not to heat the adjacent pad, allowing cooling time between etc.] and re-installed new sockets using the same method, but once the new ones catches a wire that was previously there...well, it gets trickier from that point, hafta say wicking the solder off first is probably a good move, maybe you won't have to, or it'd be a good move to just resort to 'fudge jumper[s' for stubborn remove or replace tasks.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Skitarg

#5
okey, thanks for the help! I have a firend who´s gonna let me borrow his "fudge pumper" (I dont know if its called that in english but it sucks solder) so I´ll clean the transistorssocket holes and put in new ones then. But I cant seem to find a european dealer for the right sockets (Mill-Max T0-5 3-pin, that ship to private persons they all only ship to companies. does anyone know a european (preferebly swedish) dealer for these parts?
Also is there any difference between germanium transistors ac127 and ac127-01?

liquids

just clip the leads on the transistors out of the sockets.   This will keep the transistors from seeing any more heat.

Then you can unsolder the sockets and replace them.   
Breadboard it!

petemoore

  I soldered an emitter into a socket once to keep the transistor from falling out, takes a good bit of heat-time, I used a heat sink [little testclip] between the heat and the silicon.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Skitarg

Hm, maybe I should try that because the transistors wouldnt stick good without solder. since it my first build and all, where do I get a heat-sink? all I know is that they obsorbe heat. How do I use a heat-sink?

glops

just an alligator clip attached between the solder point and the component...

Skitarg

great thanks! I think I got all the info I need know and if it doesnt work I´ll come back and ask again.