Anybody build their Gristleizer yet, comments on it?

[Strategy]

you do get the musical 'twang' on the VTL5C3 that is characteristic of the Buchla Lowpass Gate. A result of the natural slew of vactrols I guess. It sounds really good on the filter!

The VTL5C3 is not quite the right range for the LFO rate pot, but close.

Strategy

Apparently Buchla used optocouplers for a lot of their CV stuff, so... there's a good line to tell yourself and/or anybody who remarks at the slow/imprecise CV.  You were going for that vintage Buchla organic feel.

[ottopit]

Pictures got lost in cyberspace.  Here again.  What a cool circuit!

Thanks Thanks Thanks!!!

Now that enclosure looks sweet!! How did you get the blotchy-texurized look on the enclosure? Is that from the etch?

[glops]

Now that enclosure looks sweet!! How did you get the blotchy-texurized look on the enclosure? Is that from the etch?

It's a reverse etch with no paint and some clear coat.   Happy accident.  This is my favorite pedal but it's not working at the moment.

[candletears7]

Hi guys, I've built my Gristleiser, bypass is fine but nothing in effect mode.
I will check voltages on pin 5 of the MAX1044 to ensure I'm getting + and - 9v.
I also think I may have wired or set the rotary switch up incorrectly. It selects from 4 waveshapes, correct?

I have built too many pedals and the excellent Echobase, so I'm pretty confident it's a simple interpretation error on my behalf. I used ribbon wiring to keep it neat, I will post pics tonight after work. I'm tipping my questions will be about the rotary switch.

[Taylor]

When you say "nothing," do you mean that there's no sound throughput at all, or the signal passes through unaffected?

Yes, the switch selects four LFO waveshapes.

[candletears7]

No sound at all...Zilch. I wired it up exactly according to the wiring diagram. I'll start trouble shooting it when I get home, but I was kinda surprised at having no signal.

[Taylor]

I would recommend ignoring the rotary at first, and instead build an audio probe and use it to trace through the circuit from input to output. Finding out the point where the audio stops will go a long way to figuring out the problem.

[candletears7]

Yes, I have an audio probe, I'll get a tracin'!
Pin 5 of the MAX1044 is reading in the low positive volts, .64v I believe. Not good! That should be -9v, correct?
Here are some pics, if anything stands out as suspect or incorrect, please let me know!
Thanks again for this project.

[Taylor]

Yes, it should be about -9v. So that's one problem. Possible reasons are that you fed more than about 10v into the chip (maybe if you tried to power the pedal with a 12v supply?) or there's a short circuit somewhere in the charge pump area. If the chip feels hot or smells really funky, that would be relevant info as well.

[candletears7]

Ok thanks for the tip, still haven't got around to tracing it with the audio probe as yet...

[DrumKI]

Do I have to solder both the top and bottom of this board?
Or just the underside (unmarked side)

[Colonel Angus]

If you have the MUSICPCB board, just the bottom. The holes are plated through, so if you want to solder the top side, say for offboard wiring, that will work just fine.

Just built mine last night and it fired right up, I'm really pleased with the PCB and the effect itself. I'll post a clip when I get it boxed up.

[Colonel Angus]

Son of a b...   :icon_evil:This thing is a lot to stuff in a 1590bb. I managed to drill the holes for the PCB mounted pots, stuff the thing, and then broke the f-ing 6PDT rotary switch. I'll get it tonight... good thing I bought 5 switches 

[Colonel Angus]

http://soundcloud.com/brian-moeller/gristleizer-guitar-demo
soundclip has a lot of hiss, its the crummy power on the 3rd floor where my bench is. This is a pretty neat effect!

[candletears7]

Hi guys, is there a link or diagram for the rotary switch lugs corresponding to the numbered holes on the pcb. I may be missing something very obvious, but I'm only getting 2 different waveshapes. I think I've screwed this up somehow. The rest of the pedal works great, really cool sounds. Thanks.

[Colonel Angus]

http://musicpcb.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Gristleizer-build-notes-updated-121709.pdf
I used the continuity tester on my DMM just to be sure the switch worked the way I thought.

[candletears7]

Yes I have that thanks, but does lug one on the pcb correspond to lug 1 on the switch, as I followed the diagram...

[Colonel Angus]

Lugs 1+6 go to the center poles on the switch - 2-5 connect to the rotary throws which make contact to lug 1, 7-10 connect to the rotary throws which connect to lug 6. The switch should be wired so that when lug 1 is connected to lug 2, lug 6 is connected to lug 7.

[Ginsengbob]

Taylor
Please help.
A guitar player hooked my Gristleizer up to 18v negative tip instead of 9v and screwed it up.
The rate light stays lit and doesn't blink and no sound comes out when the pedal is engaged.
Can you tell me what would have been messed up by the 18v and what to start testing or replacing?

thanks

[Colonel Angus]

Start with the Max1044, it will fry at 10v