Anybody build their Gristleizer yet, comments on it?

[Taylor]

Colonel's right. That might be the only thing damaged. Other than that, if you used caps rated for less than 20v or so, they may have died.

[Ginsengbob]

Ok
Thanks
I will swap the Max1044 out first.
fingers are crossed

[Mtmattan]

Hi guys, could REALLY use a bit of help with my build..

Everything worked 100% first time on my test rig
Great PCB and project!

After I had finished wiring up the jacks, power and put it in the enclosure I must have short circuited something.
The TL074 stared smoking and no sound.

I replaced the TL074 but no change - but I suspect I may have damaged this chip as well.
I did check all the solder joints and ensured none were touching - I did find one or two connecting bridges but as it worked fine first time I don't think these were relevant.

Currently:
The 7660 chip produces -9V on breadboard but only -4V tested with a DMM on the pcb.
I replaced the two 10uF capacitors but no no change.

If I use a battery to produce the -9V, the light flashes very dimly and only sound is the LFO ticks but no sound with the first TL074 and no flashing or ticking or sound with the second TL074.
Unfortunately I don't have another TL074 to test.


Would REALLY appreciate any advice, about to smash my head into a wall

[Colonel Angus]

based on the one 74 tick-y and the other no tick-y : the no tick-y one is probably dead. If you hear LFO tick then the 74 is working, or at least that was my experience ( i fried the maxx in mine and have had lots of quality debugging time with this circuit). I would recommend audio probe, see how far your signal is getting. Also if it worked on the bench and not after wiring the enclosure I would double check all the offboard wiring for continuity.

[Globe Town Free Arts Lab]

[Globe Town Free Arts Lab]

Here's a clip of a casio keyboard going through my gristleizer
http://soundcloud.com/globetown/01-casio-new-pedal

[Derringer]

Here's a clip of a casio keyboard going through my gristleizer
http://soundcloud.com/globetown/01-casio-new-pedal

sweet

I love hearing how people are using their gristleizer
good looking build too !

[Colonel Angus]

Good stuff! This pedal has more musical use that it appears at first glance. We managed to sneak it in on a couple guitar tracks for our new record. "Sounds like church underwater" is what my girlfriend said.

[ScurvyPat]

Here's mine. Bent the sheet metal for the housing at work, had one of our guys weld the sides on, and slapped some rattlecan it. I included the speed control mod to use an expression pedal. Mine ticks a little more than I expected, so I put a cap in there to reduce it, but I found I liked a 1uf cap best rather than a 10uf. I put one of Taylor's other PCB's in there as well. The Christine does some nutty stuff and the Gristeizer really works well with it. Fired up the first time with no issues. Now I'm just waiting to get my hands on another Gristleizer PCB since my keyboard guy wants one too.

[Taylor]

Here's mine. Bent the sheet metal for the housing at work, had one of our guys weld the sides on, and slapped some rattlecan it. I included the speed control mod to use an expression pedal. Mine ticks a little more than I expected, so I put a cap in there to reduce it, but I found I liked a 1uf cap best rather than a 10uf. I put one of Taylor's other PCB's in there as well. The Christine does some nutty stuff and the Gristeizer really works well with it. Fired up the first time with no issues. Now I'm just waiting to get my hands on another Gristleizer PCB since my keyboard guy wants one too.

Cool build! I wasn't able to see your photo the way you posted it, but maybe this will work:

[ScurvyPat]

Oh my bad, it looks like I'll have to figure out how to post pictures properly on here. Thanks for the repost.

[glops]

Here's mine. Bent the sheet metal for the housing at work, had one of our guys weld the sides on, and slapped some rattlecan it. I included the speed control mod to use an expression pedal. Mine ticks a little more than I expected, so I put a cap in there to reduce it, but I found I liked a 1uf cap best rather than a 10uf. I put one of Taylor's other PCB's in there as well. The Christine does some nutty stuff and the Gristeizer really works well with it. Fired up the first time with no issues. Now I'm just waiting to get my hands on another Gristleizer PCB since my keyboard guy wants one too.

Very nice!

[glops]

I have a one spot powering my pedals and it always measures over 9 volts, I think up to 10.5 volts.  My Gristleizer stopped working
awhile back so I ordered another board.  I ordered a 9 volt regulator from small bear and was wondering that if I feed my onespot
through the regulator then into the 1044 will I be safe?

[Taylor]

That should be fine, but also if you use an LT1054 I believe it can handle several more volts input than the MAX1044, so with that you wouldn't need to worry about regulating and then doubling.

[papamatic]

OK, I have built it and I need some pointers.

I have not dabbled much with oscillators/VCO's, so I have a hard time identifying what wave shapes the various rotary settings should be. Mainly I'm trying to identify which is supposed to be the triangle wave for tweaking. Also the other settings would be useful.

Other notes/observations: I had it kind of working before I boxed it up. However it seems to me that it lost some swoosh (for lack of a better description) after I boxed it up and added bypass etc. So I have to do some troubleshooting. Probably screwed something up. I have some high frequency sound going on in the background. I suspect it is from the power supply chip. I still have to trim back the length quite a bit on the wires running to the rotary switch, and that could help if there is some kind of oscillation going on. I also have a ticking sound which I see others have experienced. I'll check the posts more thorough for suggested fixes. This thing is definitely trebly - I concur with earlier posts on that point. It does give the guitar a serious spanky sound though. Spanks, bites and cuts. The way it is now it may have too many possibilities to enable quick adjustments between effects. I am toying with the idea of putting in a couple of "hardwired" settings - even if tweeking the settings to get all those very different sounds is much of the charm of this animal.

If anyone has some pointers on the initial wave shape settings question, that would be a good starting point for setting the trim pots and further trouble shooting, and I would be grateful.

[SlugBait]

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[SlugBait]

Hi everyone,

I mounted the major parts of my gristleizer already, however, as an new autodidact in the world of electronic, i have strong doubts about pots/switches/jack wing.

I made a scehma of my current state with missing wiring, if someone care to help, would be great!

[Taylor]

The jacks in your picture look like the weird switching ones from Mammoth. Use a multimeter to fin which lugs are connected to the tip and sleeve and ignore the switch.

If you want to have true bypass on your effect, follow the link in the PDF file for true bypass switching. This will also show you how to wire the jacks up.

The "G" pad is ground. You need to connect all the grounds in your pedal to this point. That would be the negative lead from your power supply, the sleeves of your jacks, and the ground connection show in the true bypass wiring diagram.

Are you actually using a battery? If you wire it that way it will not work. You need to connect the negative to the G pad.

Welcome to the forum.  Also read the debugging links at the top of this page and "what to do when it doesn't work" in the top of the "building your own stompbox" forum.

[SlugBait]

I get the point about jacks, battery and ground. I corrected everything.
I am missing the 3PDT to make the bypass then. I'm not sure i ca make it with the SPDT/SPST ?

Thanks

[Taylor]

I don't think I understand your question - do you mean you are missing the information for how to do the bypass? It is located in the PDF file.

If you don't have a 3pdt, you can't do true bypass with an LED (unless you use the Millennium bypass or similar).