New at runoffgroove.com: Tri-Vibe

Started by B Tremblay, December 24, 2009, 07:26:22 AM

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Kitarist

Quote from: danielzink on February 04, 2010, 07:28:45 PM
Quote from: jetzster on February 03, 2010, 05:09:16 PM
Beautiful work,Dan! which label process is that?So Clean! :icon_biggrin:

White PPP box, Krylon glitter spray paint, full face waterslide, clear Krylon

Quote from: Brymus on February 03, 2010, 07:40:35 PM
Yeah Dan thats really!! nice, love the clean look and chicken head knobs.The font you used is what sets it off IMO.
I like big boxes and I cannot lie,you other builders wont deny...

Props again to big John for directing me on the font ! I really think it sets it off !


Quote from: Greg M. on February 03, 2010, 12:42:58 PM
@danielzink, can you give us a look inside?

upskirt pics:





Dan

Will you please send me the template now?

Thanks!!!

slacker

Quote from: TamuT on February 10, 2010, 07:48:13 AM
Quote from: Kitarist on February 09, 2010, 10:30:46 AM

Where did you get that kind of font?

Just a copy - paste from vero layout image posted by Slacker on page 6.

The font is called Bell Bottom, I got it from some free font website.

gigimarga

Quote from: doc_drop on February 10, 2010, 11:52:24 AM
I can report that my build is also pretty subtle in the vibe mode at slow speeds. It is more intense at faster speeds.

But the swirl and whirl modes are deep enough at slow speeds... I like the character it has. Ole skool ;)

Same thing to me...it's possible to improve it a little?

slacker


doc_drop

QuoteSame thing to me...it's possible to improve it a little?

I like it the way it is, so I haven't attempted to mod this. Maybe the ROG guys can come up with a suggestion?

But, the first thing I would try is to change the 4k7 resistor on pin #7 of U3. Try a little higher or lower and see if that changes anything. As you can see on the schematic, it is in series with the depth pot.

gigimarga

Quote from: doc_drop on February 10, 2010, 02:15:09 PM
QuoteSame thing to me...it's possible to improve it a little?

I like it the way it is, so I haven't attempted to mod this. Maybe the ROG guys can come up with a suggestion?

But, the first thing I would try is to change the 4k7 resistor on pin #7 of U3. Try a little higher or lower and see if that changes anything. As you can see on the schematic, it is in series with the depth pot.

I've tried your suggestion, but didn't seemed to work: I replaced the 4k7 with a 4k7 pot and when the pot was at 0 I heard a very weak effect.

Thx a lot anyway !

Kitarist

Also in the "official" layout it says the U4 opamps are switched wha does that mean? do i need to do anything?

gigimarga


solderman

Hi
Just managed to install and learn the basics in DIP Trace PCB layout making. I did some practice on my Tri Vibe layout for a 1950A box and here it is. No more strange wire jumpers etc.
I'll post the component layout and BOM as soon as i have learned to export the component values out from the dam application. Still a lot to learn. I hate to read software manuals. :icon_evil:
I can recommend it. It's free and easier to use than Eagle (IMO) and can export to all formats needed to order professionally made PCB:s
but I think you need to use the UV light fotoresist method to be able to get the level of resolution needed. I'll try this as Soon as I have time.

The only bad sounding stomp box is an unbuilt stomp box. ;-)
//Take Care and build with passion

www.soldersound.com
xSolderman@soldersound.com (exlude x to mail)

John Lyons

Quote from: Kitarist on February 11, 2010, 07:05:52 AM
Also in the "official" layout it says the U4 opamps are switched wha does that mean? do i need to do anything?

It just means that the op amps don't follow the same "sides".
Or that instead of side a first, side B is first etc. Get it?
Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

danielzink

Quote from: solderman on February 11, 2010, 03:37:41 PM
Hi
Just managed to install and learn the basics in DIP Trace PCB layout making. I did some practice on my Tri Vibe layout for a 1950A box and here it is. No more strange wire jumpers etc.
I'll post the component layout and BOM as soon as i have learned to export the component values out from the dam application. Still a lot to learn. I hate to read software manuals. :icon_evil:
I can recommend it. It's free and easier to use than Eagle (IMO) and can export to all formats needed to order professionally made PCB:s
but I think you need to use the UV light fotoresist method to be able to get the level of resolution needed. I'll try this as Soon as I have time.




oooooooo.....I like it ! I'm too dense to figure out Eagle - maybe I'll give this a try.

Dan

RedSwede

Quote from: Mann on February 05, 2010, 07:08:00 AM
Is this a working vero-layout:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/slackers-stuff/trivibeboardfinal.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1


Mine worked (thanks Slacker), except:
U3 (tl064) needed to be turned 180 degrees to get Vcc+ and Vcc- lined up correctly, though. (Apart from that, tl064 is symmetrically laid out.)


slacker

Cool glad it works, sorry about the error, hopefully you didn't damage anything before you spotted it. I've corrected the layout so the TL064 is now the right way round, not sure how I did it wrong it the first place  :icon_redface:

Greg M.

I just put mine together and it doesn't work (never does the first time  :icon_confused:) so I have some work to do.  My question now is this:  Should the 470uF cap be really HOT to the touch?  Should this tell me anything about my error?

John Lyons

No, it should not even be warm. I think you have a short, cap in backwards etc etc.
Check all the power supply area parts.
Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

Greg M.

Well I checked the caps and they are all oriented correctly.  I do have a question about the diode hooked to the 33k and 3k3 resistors.  Which end of the diode goes to which resistor?  It's hard to tell from the shortened diode representation on the image.  And while I'm at it, the red LED shows a flat side.  I assume that is the anode.  Am I correct? And could having this in backwards do what I'm describing (heat)?

Thanks for any help.

John Lyons

There is a line representing the cathode of the diode in the PDF. You can enlarge it to see it better.
The LED flat is the cathode usually. Refer to the schematic and you can see what you need to know.
The red LED could cause the problem I think. It's not far from the battery voltage.
Check for solder bridges or hair shorts between pads with a magnifier though.

John
Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

Greg M.

#197
The LED is correct.  I'm getting the same reading on the board ground as my 9v battery so obviously I've screwed up somewhere major.  Dang!  

But it's not getting hot anymore.  And if I take the ground wire from the input jack off the board ground I get noisy but not vibe-y sound when the switch is on.  I don't know if I can call that progress but it's different.  Could I have burned the caps up while debugging with the meter?

John Lyons

If you are getting 9v at the board ground then you have a short between ground and 9v which is likely the original problem.
Put out the 470cap and see if you still get the same reading.

Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

tol

Quote from: gigimarga on February 10, 2010, 01:56:06 AM
Quote from: John Lyons on February 07, 2010, 10:57:05 PM

Has anyone built one with the Basic Audio Layout?

Scroll up two posts, that's the layout I posted  ;)

John

I've just finished it tonight and it worked from the first try, but, as tol said above, it seems too subtle comparing with the soundclips (I've built it using TL072, TL084, LM13700 and a 5mm red LED).
Thx a lot to the people of runoffgroove and to John Lyons too for this very nice project :)


So is the tl064 or 13600 essential for the deeper sound? Mine sounds nowhere near as present as the ROG clips or TamuT's clips(very nice BTW).