New at runoffgroove.com: Tri-Vibe

[WhenBoredomPeaks]

Thats probably my favourite thing from the entire site

Awesome work, i take it as a christmas present.

[Andre]

Here's a preview of the PCB I made for the Tri-Vibe today.
It will fit in a 1590B
As soon as it's verified I will post the transfer and the partslayout.

As you can see it has a TL064 for the LFO.

[stm]

That is working fast, André.

Even though I cannot fully verify the PCB from the image you post, I see some points you might want to check:

1) The two 39k resistors on pins 2 and 15 of the LM13600 should be 3k9 (3900 ohms) in value.
2) I only spot two of the three terminals for the mode switch.
3) I'd suggest making the diameter of the 470uF capacitor larger in comparison to the 10uF caps.  At least the ones I've seen are a bit wider than that, unless you get a very low voltage cap like a 10V device.

Thanks for your enthusiasm!

[Andre]

Sebastian, thanks for your helpful response.

1) Changed the 2 resistors from 39k to 3k9
2) I planned to solder the 2 resistors to the switch, because I can't find the space to put them on the PCB.
3) done

[stm]

Sebastian, thanks for your helpful response.

Hey, no problem!

2) I planned to solder the 2 resistors to the switch, because I can't find the space to put them on the PCB.

Having the resistors external to save board space is fine, but you still need three wires connecting this switch assembly to the PCB. Since I only saw two "SW" pads, it seems one is missing.  If the pads are not together, I suggest labeling them as SW1, SW2 and SW3, to avoid mistakes when running the wires.

[Andre]

Having the resistors external to save board space is fine, but you still need three wires connecting this switch assembly to the PCB. Since I only saw two "SW" pads, it seems one is missing.  If the pads are not together, I suggest labeling them as SW1, SW2 and SW3, to avoid mistakes when running the wires.

You don't really need 3 pads because the 2 resistors that connect to the switch are also connected to each other,  but after all I did manage to find some space on the PCB for these 2 resistors and guess what I called the pads...  sw1, sw2 and sw3 

I made a PCB with your suggestions and some other minor changes this morning and I'm soldering right now.
I'm not sure if I can finish it today because we have some family visits to do, but I hope to have a build report soon.

[stm]

You don't really need 3 pads because the 2 resistors that connect to the switch are also connected to each other...

Now I see what you mean, you're right, only two wires are necessary if the resistors are soldered directly to the switch.

[zeta55]

Sounds great, a got to try I guess

/Krister

[Andre]

So it's finished and sounds just like the sound clips on RunOffGroove, but only after I shorted the leads of the 820k resistor near the rate potentiometer.
Could it be that this resistor needs to be 820R instead of 820k?
Also I had to reverse the depth pot.

I am very happy with the result of this build.
Big thanks to RunOffGroove for this great project.

The populated PCB:

[MikeD]

The effect sounds superb.  Can't wait to make my own!

[B Tremblay]

So it's finished and sounds just like the sound clips on RunOffGroove, but only after I shorted the leads of the 820k resistor near the rate potentiometer.
Could it be that this resistor needs to be 820R instead of 820k?
Also I had to reverse the depth pot.

I am very happy with the result of this build.
Big thanks to RunOffGroove for this great project.

Wow, that's very fast and impressive work.  I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying the circuit.

Are the pads for lugs 2 and 1 of the Rate pot connected on your layout?  It's difficult to tell from the above image.  The 820k resistor value is correct.  Regarding the Depth pot, on the above image the lugs are not marked, so maybe you wired that pot in reverse at first?

[WhenBoredomPeaks]

So it's finished and sounds just like the sound clips on RunOffGroove, but only after I shorted the leads of the 820k resistor near the rate potentiometer.
Could it be that this resistor needs to be 820R instead of 820k?
Also I had to reverse the depth pot.

I am very happy with the result of this build.
Big thanks to RunOffGroove for this great project.

The populated PCB:

Awesome!

Is that red LED (around the middle of the pcb) make any light? Could i profit from making a hole for that LED in the enclosure? (show LFO speed, or anything fancy)

[Andre]

Are the pads for lugs 2 and 1 of the Rate pot connected on your layout?  It's difficult to tell from the above image.  The 820k resistor value is correct.

They were not , but are connected now, and it works OK now.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
The rate pot's operation is now reversed too, which means that both pots are the wrong way around in my design, but this can be fixed easily.

[Andre]

Is that red LED (around the middle of the pcb) make any light? Could i profit from making a hole for that LED in the enclosure? (show LFO speed, or anything fancy)

No, it does not light up at all, so no LFO speed indicator I'm afraid. 

[Scruffie]

Hmm... none of the images are showing up for me on Firefox or I.E. Anyone else having this problem?

[frequencycentral]

Hmm... none of the images are showing up for me on Firefox or I.E. Anyone else having this problem?

I don't see any images either.

[stm]

Is that red LED (around the middle of the pcb) make any light? Could i profit from making a hole for that LED in the enclosure? (show LFO speed, or anything fancy)

No, it does not light up at all, so no LFO speed indicator I'm afraid. 

You can easily have RATE indication as I did during prototyping stage:  connect a 2k7 resistor in series with an LED from U3:pin1 (squarewave output of the LFO) to GND.  You may want to adjust resistor value for optimum brightness, perhaps between 2k2 and 10k.  In my case 2k7 was pretty bright with a transparent red LED.

[liquids]

On the complexity level though, on a level of 1 to 3 I would put it at 1.5 on the basis of building straight to veroboard. I don't do veroboard layouts, I just build it!. There's too much dumbing down these days!!!

The complexity level is relative to the other projects presented at runoffgroove.com - obviously veteran builders can ignore such a rating.

What tact you have!  On the other hand, I think the ratings are a good idea for those who aren't veterans, who get excited by the soundclips, but don't yet have the experience and foresight enough to know if such a build is beyond them or not...we all were (and are) first timers...some more recently than others.  It's good to give a difficulty warning for some...

A quick comment in that vein - you might want to specify "NJM13600/NJM13700" as an equal alternate part type at the bottom, or in addition to saying LM/JRC type...since that is how they often appear listed on Smallbear and other sites.  Hopefully this will save you a little hassle in clarifying that on hundreds of e-mails.  Someone is bound to miss it and ask "I can't find LM or JRC..." when Smallbears is right there,  or even "All I can find is an NJM13600..."  


Non-veteran builders can likewise ignore our favorite grumpy old man, above   Alas, we all stand on the shoulders of others (giants) who came before us when it comes to this hobby.  Some of us are lucky enough to learn enough that we can actually contribute things and offer it to others, like Stephen has.  In that vein -- great stuff here!  Always glad and appreciative to find another of your fun 'labors of love' on runoffgroove -- and a cool project at that, B!  

[B Tremblay]

I just want to point out that in the above post, the quoted names are switched.

Those alternative OTA part numbers are now mentioned in the text, thanks.

[liquids]

I just want to point out that in the above post, the quoted names are switched.

Sorry B...wont let me edit it!