New at runoffgroove.com: Tri-Vibe

Started by B Tremblay, December 24, 2009, 07:26:22 AM

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roseblood11

Hi!

Could someone post a scaled version of Andre Schaaps layout, please? Maybe as a pdf?

regards, Immo

ayayay!

Question:  On U3b, the schem has 2 back to back 10uF Polarized.  The layout has a 4.7uF Bipolar.  Since two caps in series of the same value splits the difference, is that what I'm seeing?  In other words, they're both correct.  Correct?   ;D  (Forgive me if this has been asked, but I didn't see it)

Oh and I am SOOOOOoooo building this into wah shell.  (Sorry, didn't mean to get all Friends/Rachel sounding there.)

This is the coolest thing I've seen come down the pike in a while.  Thank you SO much ROG!!!!!
The people who work for a living are now outnumbered by those who vote for a living.

maarten

Yes, with 2 capacitors paralleled you will incraes their value, whilst in series the value will go down - just the opposite from what happens with resistors...
Maarten

roseblood11

Quote from: roseblood11 on February 19, 2010, 05:29:12 PM
Hi!

Could someone post a scaled version of Andre Schaaps layout, please? Maybe as a pdf?

regards, Immo

nobody? Or am I just to stupid to print it with the correct size?

John Lyons

Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

Fuzz Aldryn

... Oh Mann Immo!  ??? Must be hard to use Inkscape "ctrl.+ shift + d" to make a 2,54mm grid to scale it hole to hole. And I'm pretty sure you know that trick form the other german speaking forum.  :icon_rolleyes:

roseblood11

Thanx, John!

@fuzzy: überflüssig wie ein Kropf

Fuzz Aldryn

#207
Quote from: roseblood11 on February 24, 2010, 08:02:49 PM
Thanx, John!

@fuzzy: überflüssig wie ein Kropf

Wenn du damit deine Posts meinst, muss ich dir da recht geben.  ??? Statt gegenüber Newbies immer den großen Mann spielen, könntest du in solchen Sachen echt mal selber was auf die Beine stellen und nicht immer andere heranziehen. Das mit Inkscape zu machen dauert keine 5min. Aber bitte, nimm immer nur und gib nicht, so wird dir auch bald nicht mehr gegeben. :icon_frown:

solderman

Hi
I'm starting to like DIP trace a lot as a tool for PCB layout.
I have now figured out how to export a BOM from DIP trace even if you only use the PCB layout program. From schematics it is obvious but from PCB layout its not. The secret is to export as "Pick and Place..." this generates a CVS file that is importable in to MS Excel. Or mount as a table in the drawing area.

I have also corrected some errors in the previous PCB but its not verified yet. I have a 13600 coming in next week together with some cupper to etch. I'll get back when I have a result.
So if there is any body but me ho wants a small Tri Vibe, Here you go





Project file
http://solderman.fatabur.se/Tri Vibe/Tri-Vibe Project file.pdf
PCB Without pour
http://solderman.fatabur.se/Tri Vibe/Tri Vibe PCB.pdf
PCB With Pour
http://solderman.fatabur.se/Tri Vibe/Tri Vibe PCB pours.pdf


The only bad sounding stomp box is an unbuilt stomp box. ;-)
//Take Care and build with passion

www.soldersound.com
xSolderman@soldersound.com (exlude x to mail)

Greg M.

How could I add a three color LED to this which changes color with each position of the 3 way switch? 

solderman

#210
Hi
Finally I have had time verified my layout. ( se post above) The ordered components have arrived and I have a working Tri Vibe. Thanks a mil ROG. I really love it. My favourite setting is "Swirl" (47K feedback). This is the first major layout I have made and with DIP trace and then built. All of my earlier Layout was made in DIY Layout creator. DIP Trace opens a lot of possibilities. The most important difference compared with DYI layout creator (and similar) is that the resolution can be much higher meaning tighter layouts are possible. The drawback is that you have to be very accurate in every step. I made this PCB 4 times before it was usable and I was satisfied. Mostly because I sourced the copper from a new dealer and the developing time in the UV light, that I am use to be 9minutes, now dropped to 3.5 min. Also be aware of solder bridges. They are extremely easy to do and miss. I checked every joint with magnifying goggles and still missed one.
Here are some pics of how it was made






I discovered this solder bridge when editing this photo


And a sound sample (first middle than 100K and finally 47K)

http://solderman.fatabur.se/Tri Vibe/Trivibe.mp3


Only boxing left  ;D
The only bad sounding stomp box is an unbuilt stomp box. ;-)
//Take Care and build with passion

www.soldersound.com
xSolderman@soldersound.com (exlude x to mail)

John Lyons

Nice!
I assume that was with the depth at 100%

Basic Audio Pedals
www.basicaudio.net/

solderman

The only bad sounding stomp box is an unbuilt stomp box. ;-)
//Take Care and build with passion

www.soldersound.com
xSolderman@soldersound.com (exlude x to mail)

aeonMg

Nice work! A Really good sounding pedal!

Solderman: I´ve allways really liked your layouts.

solderman

Quote from: aeonMg on March 10, 2010, 12:26:26 AM
Nice work! A Really good sounding pedal!

Solderman: I´ve allways really liked your layouts.
Thanks A lot.
The sound though is cred to ROG for designing it so well. Its quiet as a Norwegian blue parrot.  Not a LFO tick or squeal. ;D
The only bad sounding stomp box is an unbuilt stomp box. ;-)
//Take Care and build with passion

www.soldersound.com
xSolderman@soldersound.com (exlude x to mail)

B Tremblay

Quote from: solderman on March 10, 2010, 02:44:36 AM
The sound though is cred to ROG for designing it so well. Its quiet as a Norwegian blue parrot.  Not a LFO tick or squeal. ;D

Now THAT is quiet!  Very nice work with your tidy and petite layout.  Impressive.  I'm very happy that you like the Tri-Vibe as much as I do.
B Tremblay
runoffgroove.com

Ben N

Quote from: solderman on March 10, 2010, 02:44:36 AMIts quiet as a Norwegian blue parrot.
Nice Monty Python reference! That'd make a great name for a noise gate.
  • SUPPORTER

solderman

#217
Hi
I having trouble with low output gain. I've speed read trough the tread and found that some people have reported "subtle" effect but no one low volume when engaged. Besides the volume drop it works perfectly as in my sound sample in my earlier post.  

When I first made my Tri vibe and tested it I did as I usually do, that is connect the leads from the unboxed circuit to a test box that supplies power and In/Out jacks. That box is then connected directly to the amp so there will be nothing in between to interfere with the signal. At this stage the effect is always on so there is no bypass switch there. If the circuit behaves like it suppose to do I then solder in the stomp switch to the PCB as I always do. Then I box the thing. (I don't want to de solder a stomp switch from the PCB from a bad circuit)

It was not until after I had boxed the Tri Vibe that I discovered that it had quite a large drop in volume when engaged. I have checked my layout and all the components on the build (not so easy after boxed up in those small boxes) without finding any errors.

I then discovered a thing by chance. The first thing the guitar signal hits in my setup is a switchbox. Beside switching and rerouting it also contains an On/Off switchable line buffer to eliminate the loss of tone trough all of my true by pass pedals witch sloppy cables between them. (It's the first Op-amp buffers showed in the link below.)

http://www.muzique.com/lab/buffers.htm

I discovered that when the line buffer was ON directly after the Tri Vibe the volume loss was gone and the engaged effect had unity gain. This goes for the rest of my pedals as well though a bit harder to tell because they add distortion or other effects to the tone. The common factor in all those cases was that the signal immediately after the Tri Vibe would hit a high impedance source. This will not be the fact connected directly to the Amp with a volume drop as a result.

My conclusion is that a low impedance source directly after the Tri Vibe will load down the output buffer stage U2b and the result will be a volume drop. A high impedance after the Tri Vibe will make U2b buffer the signal and will retain unity gain.

What do you think about suggestion to add the 2:nd JFET buffer type in the link above after U2b to let the signal always meet a high impedance?.

Am I way out here..... ??? (used TL062 for LFO and TL072 for audio and LM13600)


BTW here is the Tri Vibe in a small costume


The only bad sounding stomp box is an unbuilt stomp box. ;-)
//Take Care and build with passion

www.soldersound.com
xSolderman@soldersound.com (exlude x to mail)

Slade

#218
Hi,
I've built this pedal, I'm using André's layout modified by Lyons.
I've had some trouble debugging this effect. This is what's happening:

When I turn on the pedal it doesn't nothing, the led I'm using for the LFO speed doesn't go off, it stays on. When I move the depth pot and change between the modes the sound gets affected for the filters but there's no oscillation or pitch change going on there.

The fact is that my LFO isn't working at all. I'm using a TL064CN for the LFO Opamp, a NE5532 at the buffer and a LM13700N from RS. I have triple checked all my build, my solderings are fine, no shorts, everything is fine there.  I have checked the voltages and they seem to be fine but doesn't oscillate where they should oscillate. I've changed the TL064 and the LM13700N for another one that was left from an older proyect that didn't work either (Rick Holtz's Multimode Envelope Filter). My guess at this moment is that the LM13700N could be damaged, but I'm not pretty sure if this have something to see with the LFO oscillation. I'm not using any other replacement than that.

Could you give me some tips of where should I check?

I'm a little frustrated with this building at this moment...

EDIT: Here are my readings:

Battery: 8.9v - It drops to 8.4v when connected to the pedal.

TL064CN:

1- 4v
2- 4v
3- 3.9v
4- 8.2v
5- 4.4v
6- 4.4v
7- 5.7v
8- 7.3v
9- 0v
10- 3.9v
11- 0v
12- 7.3v
13- 3.9v
14- 7.45v

LM13700N:


1- 1.2v
2- 4.8v
3- 4.15v
4- 4.1v
5- 5.1v
6- 0v
7- 5.1v
8- 3.9v
9- 4.25v
10- 5.45v
11- 8v
12- 5.4v
13- 4.1v
14- 4.1v
15- 4.8v
16- 1.2v

danielzink

Interesting discussions.....

In light of Solderman's comments I tried an experiment......

Since mine has been built it has always resided at the beginning of the pedal chain - and yes - it is a bit less than unity gain and pretty subtle - I just figured I'd let it all shake out here and a fix would be posted at some time. I mean it works and all.......


After Soldermans comments - I hooked the pedal up directly to the amp - guitar/cord/trivibe/cord/amp.
Using a Pedal Power II for a power supply.........

it sounds like wind is blowing throughout my music room !!!!!

a very pronounced whoosh-whoosh-whoosh in time with the LFO pulse......

I'm going to try and remove the LED that pulses with the LFO and see if that helps....also - when connected directly as described - I get a hellacious on/off pop....that isn't evident when the pedal is in the lineup.....

Odd things today.....

Dan