New at runoffgroove.com: Tri-Vibe

[coi2001]

I would like to fine tune the depth of my build (Slacker's vero). I was wondering what would be the best way to increase the depth of the effect. Would adjusting the component values around the LFO be the way to go?
Thank you
Coi2001

[El Heisenberg]

Will the PCB board for sale from basic audio fit into a 1590B enclosure???

[roseblood11]

Will the PCB board for sale from basic audio fit into a 1590B enclosure???

I don´t think so. Use the original layout from Andre Schaap(?), it´s a bit smaller.

[El Heisenberg]

i dont get it. Why not just use the small design in the first place. A 1590BB box is pretty big for such a small circuit with only two controls.

[chromesphere]

Hi guys,

I built the Tri-vibe recently, had a few issues, all of which being my own doing

I have made a you tube....ah....video...of it.  I hope you like it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9NYFJ4oHWc

CS

[solderman]

i dont get it. Why not just use the small design in the first place. A 1590BB box is pretty big for such a small circuit with only two controls.

Well
If you use the PCB layout I posted in the page before you can chose between 1590BB, B or A as in the pic below. It does not get smaller than that I think :-)

[El Heisenberg]

i cant make pcb. I cabt drill the holes! And im around enough poison all the time as it is.



The 1590A is where its at. Thats how small the pedal should be.

I did like Andres beautiful black one tho too...



Im just going to box this up with a tremulus lune and two foot switches

[Barcode80]

i cant make pcb. I cabt drill the holes! And im around enough poison all the time as it is.



The 1590A is where its at. Thats how small the pedal should be.

I did like Andres beautiful black one tho too...



Im just going to box this up with a tremulus lune and two foot switches

Small is not always the goal. For example, I'd much rather have a slightly larger pedal that I could properly layout neat clean lines in for wiring, etc. Also, the more you pack in components IME you are more likely to have to deal with solder bridges. I also think a neatly laid out larger board with aesthetically pleasing parts placement beats the jumble you sometimes have to do for parts to get a tight layout.

[El Heisenberg]

I never get solder bridges. Just put stuff in the wrong place.

But I always build on perf. I can't imagine messing up a PCB layout no matter how complicated the off board wiring is.

[El Heisenberg]

Oh I get it. Not making your own PCBs is noobish, so if you buy it, why not have the big noobish PCB with huge pads and traces and tons of space.



Oh wait, I keep forgetting you need a freakin drill press to drill all the holes!

[Barcode80]

Oh I get it. Not making your own PCBs is noobish, so if you buy it, why not have the big noobish PCB with huge pads and traces and tons of space.



Oh wait, I keep forgetting you need a freakin drill press to drill all the holes!

Taking it a bit personal eh?

"Noobish" doesn't enter into it. For me, it's aesthetics. I have an enormous amount of respect for those that can cram a circuit into a small box, and I can generally as well, and I do it on occasion. But in my own builds, I like my interior to look as clean and organized as possible, and for me that isn't always possible with a tiny crammed board. Dumb things like resistors all laying flat and minimal offboard components make things look cleaner to me, and I don't want 800 pedals on my board anyway so size of the pedal isn't usually an issue. It's just a preference. I was just saying it's not as crazy as you make it sound.

[azrael]

solderman, I've taken one attempt at your PCB, the traces are so thin! Couldn't get a few of them to connect. I'm going to try again soon...

[solderman]

solderman, I've taken one attempt at your PCB, the traces are so thin! Couldn't get a few of them to connect. I'm going to try again soon...

I allways use the UV light method to do the PCB:s. The P&P does not give the precision needed.

[solderman]

i cant make pcb. I cabt drill the holes! And im around enough poison all the time as it is.



The 1590A is where its at. Thats how small the pedal should be.

I did like Andres beautiful black one tho too...



Im just going to box this up with a tremulus lune and two foot switches

Small is not always the goal. For example, I'd much rather have a slightly larger pedal that I could properly layout neat clean lines in for wiring, etc. Also, the more you pack in components IME you are more likely to have to deal with solder bridges. I also think a neatly laid out larger board with aesthetically pleasing parts placement beats the jumble you sometimes have to do for parts to get a tight layout.

True enough but it Allso depends on what the goal is.
I started with bigger boxes and got bored of building "yet an other 1590B dist" so the shrinking is a challenge for me to see where the physical limit goes for cramming in normal components in a 1590A and still get it to operate sound vice and mechanically in a live environment.

[El Heisenberg]

Are there working voltage measurements out there? All i can find are ones with bugs.

[El Heisenberg]

...getting LFO tick or noise. Anyone else have this? I used the PCB from John Lyon


Also is there no way to get more depth? Increasing the depth pot? Or is 10kohms for NO depth??

[El Heisenberg]

True enough but it Allso depends on what the goal is.
I started with bigger boxes and got bored of building "yet an other 1590B dist" so the shrinking is a challenge for me to see where the physical limit goes for cramming in normal components in a 1590A and still get it to operate sound vice and mechanically in a live environment.

For me it ain't that I'm bored with building in 1590Bs. It depends on the circuit. I can't and dont wanna put a tremulus lune in a 1590B cos it has 5 or 6 pots and a toggle switch. But I don't want to put a freakin Tri Vibe in 1590BB enclosure because it ONLY has 2 controls and 1 toggle. I have 20 devices on my pedal board (only 3 distortions) and I can't have 2 inches of wasted space on all four sides for such a small circuit.


I'm gunna box it up with the tremulus lune. The PCB from Basicaudio is huge. total noob status. The pads and traces were so huge they were almost touching each other. And it felt like it was "kids soldering" for ages 8 and up. How could I miss??  I got it done it like 10 minutes evn tho I was daydreaming and I stopped to play air guitar to a couple songs during the process. But it still wasnt worth how much space the board takes up.

What's the point of building a freakin pedal if you can buy something better? If the pedal is gunna be HUGE and you could just buy  something like it for cheaper and SMALLER? I won't build anything if it's gunna turn out bigger than a commercial unit would. And I won't build anything that I think is gunna take up more space than it's worth. I've seen Rangemasters around here in 1590BB enclosures. Jesus!

[RickS]

Just built a Tri-vibe from Slacker's Veroboard layout.  First of all--credit where credit's due--ROG for the concept and design, and to Slacker for the Vero layout.  Thanks, guys, for sharing your knowledge and efforts. 

I haven't installed the board and off-board components in a box yet, just wired it up on a chair and plugged it in to test--basically a "breadboard" setup, running on 9V battery putting out 9.64 volts.  Mostly, it works, but with a few bugs, and I could use some ideas if anybody can help:

1.) Getting a pretty strong "thump" that increases in rate with the rate pot, but goes away at lower levels of rate.  Assume it's LFO related, but I would not describe it as a "tick", nor the whoosh-whoosh described earlier.  I don't really want to do all the box drilling, installing, etc. before I de-bug it, but is it likely the thump comes from being totally unshielded?  Would putting it into the (metal) box shield it and eliminate the thump?

2.) Both pots seem to have a lot of "wasted range" at both ends of the wiper travel.  I did use an A taper pot for the Rate pot, and reversed leads as described in ROG's build notes.  The 820K resistor stays the same, bridging #1 and 3 lugs on the pot, but does the jumper from lug 2 stay on lug 1, or go to lug 3 when the leads are reversed?  Could this be some (all!!) of my problem?  [ I do plan to eventually replace the Rate pot with the right one--a 500K C-taper, but from the build notes in ROG's article, I was expecting only reverse operation, and maybe some "bunching" up of the effect at one or the other end of the wiper travel--not a noise problem]


3.) I had to substitute 2 of the diodes, because I mis-ordered.  I used 2 1N914 diodes I had on hand to sub for the 1N4149's specified.  They seem to be indistinguishable, in fact, on line, the Fairchild data sheet is the same for both diodes, and I could find no mention of any significant difference.  But--obviously the guys at ROG know what they're doing, I only occasionally think I know what I'm doing. . . (and am often wrong)  Any chance this is my problem?

4.)  I ran out of caps and had to use a disc cap for one of the 4n7 caps.  I don't recall seeing any disc caps in anybody's build photos, and according to an article I read somewhere, disc caps can be microphonic.  Although I thumped the cap several times with a finger, it did not make any noise, or alter the thump-thump-thump which is what I would expect a microphonic component to do (like tubes in my amp when they get microphonic).  But again, any chance this is the problem?   Why don't builders use disk caps in stompbox FX's?

5.) Post at or near the top of the page asks is there is a component(s) that can be changed to provide more depth.  It might be part of what's already wrong with my build, but I'd like to add more depth, also, if there is a reasonable mod. that can be made to the circuit.

6.)  Is there anything about going from the two TL-062's to the single TL-064 that I should check that might be part of the problem?   (Other IC's used include NJM13600D and TL072, all from Small Bear)

I have not measured any voltages in the circuit, but can, if this would help someone point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me.  This is really exciting--I'm looking forward to my new, quiet Tri-Vibe.

[solderman]

BTW
Is there any news about why the circuit behaves strange with different IC:s for U1 but NE5532 ?

See earlier posts about low output and ticking etc..

[Barcode80]

without looking at the schem...

if you are using an ne5532 for the lfo section, i can tell you it will be a pain in the ass. i've never gotten an lfo to work with an ne5532 without changing some parts values in the lfo section. it's just such a stable opamp, with all kinds of internal stabilization which makes it a little harder to drive into oscillation.