Jordan Bossclone - Problem

[keto]

OK so this is my first ever build.  Well, 2nd, I built it last night but was sloppier with my soldering so I deconstructed it and started on a fresh board.  I am a total beginner at electronics, have a DMM and don't even know how to use it properly beyond say measuring that my 9v battery is putting out 9.6  

Based on this schematic:  http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album15/album76/Jordan_Bosstone_LAYOUT.gif.html

I have output, but only if I play multiple strings and hammer on it.  It's very gated....definitely fuzz, but more gated and less fuzzy than I expect.  And with very low output as I say, single string notes yield 0 discernable volume.

The only substitutions from the schematic are a 2N2222A instead of 2N2222, and a 47pf instead of 50pf cap.  I have no idea if that's a problem.....

Also, I didn't verify the pins of the transistors.....I assumed based on pinout info found elsewhere on the net.  Looking from top down, they are wired:

2N222A      2N3906
--e------------e---
--b------------b---
--c------------c---

Here are pics.

1.  I wired it 'always on', as I don't have a switch.  I ended up with an extra ground wire...which I wired to ground.


2.  Closer in to the top of the board.


3.  And the reverse, flipped side-to-side so mirror to the schematic.  The 2 areas circled in yellow are places where I thought it was possible I had a connection I shouldn't.  I ran an exacto knife in both spots (under the bridge wire on the lower one) and am reasonably certain I don't have a connection.


Any thoughts?

[MagnumFX]

Hi Keto,

  Your main problem is that you've wired Q1 incorrectly, as you have the collector where the Emitter should be & the Emitter where the Collector should be. Simple fix; Carefully remove Q1, turn it 180 and re-insert/solder (you should attach a heatsink to Q1 & use a low wattage soldering iron 25-40W max). 

  To confirm if you have potential shorts in the upper and lower circled areas, simply set your DMM to Ohms (Omega Sign; looks like a horseshoe) or Continuity Check which emits an audible signal (beep) if you have continuity (in this case a short). Then touch a probe to each side of the potential short and if you hear a beep on Continuity or get a low reading on Ohms (1.5 or so), then you have a short. 

  In the lower circled area; Your jumper from the Base of Q2 to Q1 passes over the pad that the Base lead from Q1 goes thru. Either re-route or insulate if req'd by your prior DMM test should it show a short. 

  As well, be aware that it's always a good idea to heatsink semi-conductors, particularly Germanium Transistors. The more you have to heat a semi-conductor to insert and/or remove from a circuit, the greater the chance of damage. 

  When soldering, always tin your iron with solder first, then hold the tip on the leads to be soldered until the solder flows when touching it on the leads. When done correctly, the solder will flow smoothly onto the leads at which point you remove the iron and let it cool. A good solder joint will be shiny and neat without any excess that could cause problems.

  Let me know how you make out. BTW, checking the Battery Voltage was the correct first step in tracing any problem. 

  Good Luck! 

  MagnumFX     magnum@xittel.ca