Dr Boogey Project

ghostsauce · January 12, 2010, 11:59:28 AM

This is a continuation from a few different threads, I'll just use this one from now on. Anyway I'm building a gaussmarkov Dr Boogey, and have ordered all the parts at this point and am just waiting for them to arrive. In the mean time, I'm pickup up the stuff I can buy locally.

What kind of material is used to finish metal enclosures? I'm heading to hardware store and I think I'm looking for a special kind of sand paper but I'm not sure. What do you guys use?

jkokura · January 12, 2010, 01:19:00 PM

Depends on what you're planning to do. There's a lot of helpful info in the WIKI above ^^^^

I generally sand my enclosures, first with 400 grit then with 800. Next I'll clean with water, then rubbing alcohol and wait for them to dry. Next I'll prime them with self etching primer, I get it at Napa Auto parts. After that's dry, I start with with a light coat of whatever paint I want (Dupont Metal flake is good, as is Krylon), the second light coat goes on 15-20 minutes after the first. Usually 2 light coats and then 1 medium coat 20-30 minutes is good, but sometimes if I need better coverage I'll go with 3 light coats and 1-2 medium coats. After all that's done, I bake it at 150F or 70C for 20 minutes in a small toaster oven I only use for this purpose - this gives the paint a nice even finish, and also allows it to cure faster. Once it's cool, I generally wait a little bit before I put decals on. I use a local company to print vinyl decals that I've designed on my computer. Once those have been placed on my box, I clear coat it like crazy. Once the clear coat is on I generally bake it again after giving it an hour or so. This again cures it. Once they've cooled, I can install the guts and put some fuzzy velcro on the bottom to mount it on my pedal board.

Jacob

ghostsauce · January 12, 2010, 03:50:24 PM

Awesome, thanks for the info

ghostsauce · January 22, 2010, 03:43:18 PM

Ok. So I have all my parts and am well on my way to having a populated board but I've run into a problem.. Mouser didn't send me my 220nF caps! ACK! There are no stores around here that sell them, I think, but I am looking anyway... But in the mean time, is there any other values I can substitute in without making it explode or just not work properly?

ghostsauce · January 22, 2010, 04:06:28 PM

The closest I have is a 300nF, will that be ok?

anchovie · January 22, 2010, 04:11:31 PM

Other values won't make it explode, but the frequency response of the tone stack would be altered. If you use 300n instead you'll get a bit more bass and a bit less low-mids. If you've got a 100n use that on the mids pot instead to increase the low-mids, which might work better for the pedal as amp tonestacks tend to already have a mid-scoop in them.

ghostsauce · January 22, 2010, 09:21:50 PM

Thanks, I had to replace both C11 and C12 with the 300nF caps. I play in Drop B tuning so the extra bottom end might be welcome, and I can always set the pot low. I don't have any other pots to replace the mid with, but I do have a 500k pot that I bought in case I wanted to use it for gain. Think I could use that on the Bass instead of the 1M pot to counter-act the inflating lower end?

manis404 · January 23, 2010, 01:38:41 AM

Hello, I used an old stompbox's enclosure.

Full build process here, am still trying to bias tho: http://theiopage.blogspot.com/2009/10/mesa-boogie-dual-rectifier-preamp.html

anchovie · January 23, 2010, 09:27:52 AM

Quote from: ghostsauce on January 22, 2010, 09:21:50 PM
Thanks, I had to replace both C11 and C12 with the 300nF caps. I play in Drop B tuning so the extra bottom end might be welcome, and I can always set the pot low. I don't have any other pots to replace the mid with, but I do have a 500k pot that I bought in case I wanted to use it for gain. Think I could use that on the Bass instead of the 1M pot to counter-act the inflating lower end?

500k will lower the bass so that's a good call. I'd recommend you Google for tone stack calculator and download it, it'll give you a good visual representation of the effect that changing component values has on frequency response for several popular tone stack models.

ghostsauce · January 23, 2010, 11:03:01 AM

Awesome, I'll do that.

I've run into another snag, I can't seem to find a wiring diagram without a 9v Battery. I don't have a battery snap because I will never ever use one with this. I've got a voodoo lab pedal power + so there's no point. Anyone here come across one or know how it would work? This is all I can find:
http://ghostsauce.net/random/Boog%20wiring%20diagram.gif

Hupla · January 23, 2010, 11:14:29 AM

Quote from: ghostsauce on January 23, 2010, 11:03:01 AM
Awesome, I'll do that.

I've run into another snag, I can't seem to find a wiring diagram without a 9v Battery. I don't have a battery snap because I will never ever use one with this. I've got a voodoo lab pedal power + so there's no point. Anyone here come across one or know how it would work? This is all I can find:
http://ghostsauce.net/random/Boog%20wiring%20diagram.gif

Just leave out the wires coming from the battery to the 9v plug in that diagram and thats how you do it.

ghostsauce · January 23, 2010, 12:56:57 PM

Huh. wow that seems way too easy

I also have 2 mono jacks (these ones: http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PPP&Product_Code=6010&Category_Code=JAC )
But by the looks of that diagram it seems I am going to need a stereo jack for the input. Is that correct or is it actually a mono jack in the diagram with two wires coming off one of the metal connectors?

anchovie · January 23, 2010, 02:02:35 PM

A stereo jack is only needed to break the connection for a battery when the jack is unplugged. For a mono, just connect sleeve to ground and tip to effect-in.

By the way, ignore what I said about the 500k pot - I forgot about the gaussmarkov version having a scaled tonestack. 500k will give a bass increase in that case.

ghostsauce · January 23, 2010, 02:13:31 PM

Ok, thanks a lot. The people here have been very helpful and supportive, you guys rock.

Hupla · January 23, 2010, 02:51:29 PM

Quote from: ghostsauce on January 23, 2010, 02:13:31 PM
Ok, thanks a lot. The people here have been very helpful and supportive, you guys rock.

No problem man. I love this place too. Im building a Dr. Boogey soon too so let me know how you do.

ghostsauce · January 25, 2010, 05:43:17 PM

Ok, I've got the circuit board all built and I'm starting on the final assembly (woot!).. But.. I can't find the ground on the pcb. I've drawn a red box around what I *think* is the ground, but I'm not sure if it's this one, or the one below it:
http://ghostsauce.net/random/Boog%20ground.swf

And I am wiring it like this, only without the battery:
http://ghostsauce.net/random/Boog%20wiring%20diagram.gif

(So I'm running a wire from the sleeve of the output to the ground on the pcb.)

ghostsauce · January 25, 2010, 06:21:10 PM

oh, I think I understand.. the one I drew a red box around is the DC in, and the one below it is the ground. Can anyone confirm please?

anchovie · January 26, 2010, 05:17:56 AM

That's correct - it's the trace that lug 1 on of volume pot connects to.

ghostsauce · January 26, 2010, 02:33:56 PM

Thanks. I tried it out for the first time this morning and it was incredible! I have a Marshall AVT150h amp and I always found the dirty channels sounded pretty nasty, but now I just run it on the clean setting and use the DB to light up the tube in it into sonic bliss. Absolutely epic pedal! Thanks for all the help folks

Hupla · January 26, 2010, 02:59:43 PM

Quote from: ghostsauce on January 26, 2010, 02:33:56 PM
Thanks. I tried it out for the first time this morning and it was incredible! I have a Marshall AVT150h amp and I always found the dirty channels sounded pretty nasty, but now I just run it on the clean setting and use the DB to light up the tube in it into sonic bliss. Absolutely epic pedal! Thanks for all the help folks

Ive mine bread boarded. CANT WAIT to get home now to try it out

Glad it worked first time for ya.

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Dr Boogey Project