Question about Bottom switch - ROG - Thor

Started by doc_drop, January 18, 2010, 01:37:41 PM

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doc_drop

I am finishing up a Thor build, and I had a question. I don't want the Bottom switch since I like the way the circuit sounds much more with it engaged. (For that matter I am also eliminating the Bright switch.)

But, am I right in assuming that all I have to do is connect my out pin directly to the -in pin on the op Amp? I used one side of a TL072 so in my case it would be pin 1 to pin 2? Then I can remove the 100K and 33 k resistors and the (2) 22nF caps? It appears that the switch bypasses all those, right?

Thanks!

stm

Quote from: doc_drop on January 18, 2010, 01:37:41 PM
I am finishing up a Thor build, and I had a question. I don't want the Bottom switch since I like the way the circuit sounds much more with it engaged. (For that matter I am also eliminating the Bright switch.)

But, am I right in assuming that all I have to do is connect my out pin directly to the -in pin on the op Amp? I used one side of a TL072 so in my case it would be pin 1 to pin 2? Then I can remove the 100K and 33 k resistors and the (2) 22nF caps? It appears that the switch bypasses all those, right?

Thanks!
If your intention is to have the BOTTOM permanently ON, then you just ignore the switch and leave the 100k, 33k and 22nF caps as they are. This network produces the hump in the response.

In relation to the bright switch, I'm not clear if you like the bright always ON or always OFF.

doc_drop

Thanks for the response. Now I am confused, though.

QuoteIf your intention is to have the BOTTOM permanently ON

My intention is to have the Bottom switch closed permanantly. That is what sounds best to me. Are you saying that the Bottom boost is disengaged when the Boost switch is closed? And when it is closed doesn't it bypass the resistor/cap network?

QuoteIn relation to the bright switch, I'm not clear if you like the bright always ON or always OFF.

Again I prefer this one in the closed position. I also assumed that was the Bright Boost. Anyway, I don't need help doing that. My only question is the one above about the Bottom switch.

Thanks!

stm

The bottom switch closed is equivalent to "NO BASS BOOST".  In this condition you can remove the four components aforementioned and set pins 1 and 2 permanently connected with a wire.

doc_drop

Interesting. Here I thought I was boosting and I was doing the opposite. Anyway, I like the sound of it that way, so I will remove the components.

Thanks!

Is it Bright boosting with the switch open as well?

stm

#5
Quote from: doc_drop on January 18, 2010, 03:54:48 PM
Is it Bright boosting with the switch open as well?
Bright Boost is ON when switch is closed and the 470pF capacitor is connected across pins 2 and 3 of the gain pot.

Please notice that the bottom boost is intended mainly for use with a small combo amp and/or when playing/practicing alone, as the added bass is likely to enhance the sound in these circumstances.  If playing through a larger cab (think 2x12 or 4x12) and/or playing along with a band, then you'd probably prefer not having this bass boost.

Regarding the Bright switch, some people may find it too bright (depending on the type of guitar and pickups--think about single coils) and prefer adding a 100k to 220k resistor in series with the 470pF cap in order to reduce the brightness a little.  Also, if you prefer adding a treble boost in front of the pedal, you might want to have the Bright option off.

doc_drop

Thanks again Sebastian. That is good info.

Like I said I prefer the Bright on and the Bottom off. I play alone mainly through a bench amp and a small practice amp I built, but these settings sounded best to me. It is a very nice sounding circuit. I prefer it to the Thunderchief, which is best for dark distorted tones, not so much for clean tones. This one is more versatile and easier to bias.



Mugshot

just a related question about the thor bottom toen control. is it okay to substitute a 33nF and 10nF caps in place of the two 22nF caps? im not thinking of having a parallel 10nF/10nF pair to replace a 22nF cap since this'll eat too much space.  ???
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