Drilling in a Straight Line (by hand)

Started by T1bbles, January 22, 2010, 12:14:49 PM

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T1bbles

Can anyone drill 4 or 5 holes for pots or LEDs or anything in a straight line? Because I sure as hell can't!



What's the secret?

Martin.
Behringer don't do signatures, but if they did, they'd probably stop working mid sen

theehman

use an extra-fine point Sharpie and a ruler.  Layout the distance from the end on both sides and draw a line across the pedal.  Mark where the pots will go and use a punch tool to mark the holes and help center the bit when drilling.
Ron Neely II
Electro-Harmonix info: http://electroharmonix.vintageusaguitars.com
Home of RonSound effects: http://www.ronsound.com
fx schematics and repairs

frequencycentral

I create a drill template, tape it to the enclosure, centre punch it, and use a hand drill.

I don't own a drill press.  :icon_sad:

Here's some photos: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=77001.0
http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

Questo è il fiore del partigiano morto per la libertà!

theehman

Quote from: frequencycentral on January 22, 2010, 12:24:08 PM
I create a drill template, tape it to the enclosure, centre punch it, and use a hand drill.

I don't own a drill press.  :icon_sad:

Here's some photos: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=77001.0

I use a drill press w/ a fence.  I keep a chassis for each of my pedals as a template for drilling.
Ron Neely II
Electro-Harmonix info: http://electroharmonix.vintageusaguitars.com
Home of RonSound effects: http://www.ronsound.com
fx schematics and repairs

Hanglow

Quote from: frequencycentral on January 22, 2010, 12:24:08 PM
I create a drill template, tape it to the enclosure, centre punch it, and use a hand drill.

I don't own a drill press.  :icon_sad:

Here's some photos: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=77001.0

this is what I have ended up doing as well, works very well

it's amazing how wonky everything can look even if you are only a mm or two out

Rodgre

I have used paper templates and even made a metal drilling jig. I also use a center punch and I've still had trouble with getting straight lines because I've started with too large a drillbit (or going straight to a unibit). I've found that if I drill small pilot holes, I can see if things are looking good before I go in with a larger bit. If not, I can make adjustments by widening the pilot hole so that the center, where the larger bit will go, is where I need it to be.

Roger

modsquad

"Chuck Norris sleeps with a night light, not because he is afraid of the dark but because the dark is afraid of him"

studiostud

+1 on center punch and pilot holes.  the center punch is clutch to get the pilot hole right and I've had the same experience getting holes out of alignment when I start with too large a bit.  I you want to be more precise, you could start with doing a really small pilot hole and then graduate it up to, say, an 1/8" or 3/16", then get it with a unibit or the right size for the hole.  and also +1 for the ruler and sharpie.  measure measure measure.  the golden rule of woodworking also applies here.... measure twice, cut once.  (or just pick up a $60 drill press at harbor freight   :icon_lol: )


Jeff
Builds Completed: Big Muff. Fuzz Face. Tube Screamer. Rat. Crash Sync. Harmonic Jerkulator. 6-band EQ. Rebote 2.5. Tremulus Lune. Small Stone. Small Clone. Microamp. LPB-2. Green Ringer. Red Ranger. Orange Squeezer. SansAmp. MXR Headphone Amp. Bass Fuzz.

jacobyjd

Warsaw, Indiana's poetic love rock band: http://www.bellwethermusic.net

mth5044


Ibanezfoo

Drill press, fence, and well aligned laser.  :)  Helps to punch it too because the small drill bits like to wander a little before they dig in.

davent

Like many have said;

1. Good layout
2. Center punch, i could never even get that straight so bought an optical centre punch. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=45502&cat=1,42936,50298
3. Start with a small bit, at least 1/16" and work up to the size needed.
4. I'll add use high quality sharp bits, forget your big box store junk, find a specialty tool dealer selling good stuff and that alone will make a huge difference.

Santa brought me a benchtop drill press this past Christmas so that should help up the quality of the work.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

nbabmf

I use a ruler and a fine point Sharpie marker to draw my layout on the plastic covering the enclosure before I unwrap it, then drill it in the plastic. As an added bonus, it catches most of the shavings.

T1bbles

Thanks so much guys, loads of good stuff!

If you don't mind Mr Frequency Central I'm just gonna rob your punching template publisher file and exploit it for my own diabolical means! And on top of that I'm gonna get myself an optical centre punch to make sure I can't go wrong! Also, I usually do 5mm pilot holes (talking as if I'd actually heard the term before today) but I think I'll start with 3mm from now on, minimizing the chances of error.

Thanks again guys, top stuff! ;D
Behringer don't do signatures, but if they did, they'd probably stop working mid sen

electrosonic

I do a layout on the computer, print it out and attach it to the box with double sided tape.  I drill one pilot hole and then move to the proper sized drill bit for the hole.  I have not had much luck with drilling multiple times and working up  to the appropriate hole size, the holes drift somehow if I try this.

Andrew.
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davent

Quote from: T1bbles on January 22, 2010, 03:35:00 PM
Thanks so much guys, loads of good stuff!

... but I think I'll start with 3mm from now on, minimizing the chances of error.

Thanks again guys, top stuff! ;D

Go smaller, 1.5mm at least, you won't regret it!
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

T1bbles

Quote from: davent on January 22, 2010, 03:43:21 PM
Quote from: T1bbles on January 22, 2010, 03:35:00 PM
Thanks so much guys, loads of good stuff!

... but I think I'll start with 3mm from now on, minimizing the chances of error.

Thanks again guys, top stuff! ;D

Go smaller, 1.5mm at least, you won't regret it!

Ha! I'm not even sure if I have a HSS one that small! I'll have a rumage :D
Behringer don't do signatures, but if they did, they'd probably stop working mid sen

tiges_ tendres

Quote from: electrosonic on January 22, 2010, 03:35:22 PM
I do a layout on the computer, print it out and attach it to the box with double sided tape.  I drill one pilot hole and then move to the proper sized drill bit for the hole.  I have not had much luck with drilling multiple times and working up  to the appropriate hole size, the holes drift somehow if I try this.

Andrew.

I've tried this route too.  Not the best results for me to drill a pilot and go up in multiple drill sizes.  I think the reason is it can be much harder to ensure that you are centered once you change bits.

My Best results are still achieved by Unibit.  I always drill a small pilot hole, and by small I mean smaller than 3mm.  Its usually big enough that the first level of the unibit will fit through the hole, which allows me to make sure the piece is centered.
Try a little tenderness.

Paul Marossy

Quote from: theehman on January 22, 2010, 12:25:22 PM
I use a drill press w/ a fence.  I keep a chassis for each of my pedals as a template for drilling.

That's pretty smart. For the enclosures I have to drill several of at one time, I made a wooden jig to locate the holes for which I use a center punch to mark the enclosure. Then I take them to the drill press and drill them. A drill press makes easy work of having to drill 15 or 20 enclosures at a time.

Skruffyhound

Practice.  We can't do anything else in life without failing the first few times. I recommend getting some scrap aluminium to practice on and save yourself the cost of the 3 first messed-up enclosures.  :)