Easter Eggs: GGG Dist+/250

Started by chi_boy, February 26, 2010, 11:54:45 PM

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chi_boy

I started a DOD 250, '77 Gray, project using the board from GGG.

This is the layout:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_dist_g250_lo.pdf

I started comparing this layout to the Dist+, the DOD250, and the Ross, and noticed that there are pads that aren't used on any of the variants.

I can see that there is an option to add 808 type clipping to the chip.  It also looks like there are extra pads for clipping options in the normal place. 

The thing I'm wondering about is the jumpers.  The board has three jumpers that are used on all variants.  I'm curious what options might use those mystery pads and what result they may have.  One set of pads looks like it set up for a polarized cap, and the other two look like they are spaced for resistors.  Are these documented anywhere?  Or would anyone have any ideas?


Just wonderin'

Cheers,
George
"Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people." — Admiral Hyman G. Rickover - 1900-1986

The Leftover PCB Page

violatedpedalboards

socket the connectors and see what happens when you try different components in each?

slacker

#2
These are just guesses from looking at the layout and the schematic.

The jumper marked T connects C7 to ground, if you replaced the jumper with a pot wired as a variable resistor that would give you a tone control. You'd need to experiment with pot values and the value of C7.

The jumper marked C connects the clipping diodes to ground, so you could replace that with a switch to disconnect the diodes, or put a pot in there to give some sort of variable clipping. If you used a rotary switch or just a DPDT  there's enough extra pads that you could switch between Distortion Plus and Tube Screamer style clipping or both or none.

The little jumper before the volume pot could be removed and replaced with a Rat or SWTC type tone control.

petemoore

  Big Board fits easy in box.
  Socket the diodes [I used 6pin IC socket]. Use 100k for gain.
  If you want to mess with the input cap, by making it large..it can then easily to reduce with a cap spliced in it's offboard input wire, a default to working circuit switch wiring can simply bypass one of the capacitors, Stock and ''Thin'' are the values I chose for this type of input voicing option.
  IIRC the values were .1uf and 100k for the adjustable treble control across the diodes, I think it needs:
  The treble control, it allows treble/bass balance to a good amount of compensation to when volumes of other things change voicing.
  The 100k gain allows finer control [many find this a more useful range] over the higher gain settings, at the expense of no lower gain settings.
 
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Guitartoma

Well, here's my next project using that kit:



I believe this fills up that little board nicely. Although - I am having a hard time finding the 30uF cap, C2 in the schematic. Anyone have any ideas who might have one?

slacker

Nice.

The value of C2 doesn't really matter 22uF, 47uF, 100uF or any similar value will work fine

Guitartoma

I thought the same thing - I'll probably end up using a 33uF - Even JD at GGG said he's having hard time finding them.

Guitartoma

Another fun project I did with this board was a re-creation of Beavis' screamer lab. I added a double row of five dpdt switches all with different diodes loaded to try out different clipping circuits. It's fun becasue you can totally mix and match which diodes you want to hear. Here's Beavis' link:
http://www.beavisaudio.com/projects/ScreamerLab/

Guitartoma

I am so stoked! I found an old modem card that's been sitting in my cabinet for years - and what do I find on it? A beautiful little 50v 33uF cap!!! SCORE!!!