getting print on box

[docz]

I was just wondering how you guys get white or light text and markings printed on a dark painted box? Like white text on black box.

DocZ

[Ice-9]

Ha ! that is the question, as everyone using printers for decals or acetate graphics  knows, the printer will print NOTHING for white, so your left with a clear part in your decal where only the background colour will show through. This is why i have started to try and build a screen print device from bits of scrap lying around (project to build a silk screen printer for free or very cheap)

Anyway to get a white print on a dark background you need to basically put white printing ink/ paint onto the surface of the pedal which is what the screen printing will do. The only other way i can think of is using letraset if it's still available.

[docz]

What is a letraset? And doesn't screen printing involve a lot of chemicals and equipment? Please share some details on your project

DocZ

[scratch]

Letraset is a specific brand of dry-transfer/rub-on lettering ... like some BBD's, impossible to find now days ...

[scratch]

I've come across the following while surfing Digikey ... never tried it so can't say, but looks interesting ...

http://www.pulsarprofx.com/DecalPRO/index.html

[docz]

Wov, that looks great! That is a lot like the guys who do window graphics do it.

I wonder what exactly is in the "TRF" and how the "TSS" paper is built up, I suspect it might be a diy route here.

DocZ

[davent]

Google turned up this example of white dry transfer labels. http://www.micromark.com/MODEL-GRAPHICS-DRY-TRANSFER-RR-LETTERING-GOTHIC-WHITE,8689.html?sc=WGB&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase

dave

[Ice-9]

What is a letraset? And doesn't screen printing involve a lot of chemicals and equipment? Please share some details on your project

DocZ

have a look in this link to the project i'm talking about, no chemicals involved with this, water is used to develop the screen. I uploaded some images of a print today.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=82350.0

@Scratch that decal pro looks interesting.

[jkokura]

I use a local sign making company that prints graphics and lettering for me on clear vinyl. They have printers that print in white. It costs me 20 bucks for setup, but it's dirt cheap for the material itself. I can get 6 or 7 full pedal graphics printed for about 30 bucks. Not super cheap no, but I don't have to have a printer or go through all the labour of getting it printed, I just have to come up with the graphics in inkscape.

Jacob

[Altitude]

There is always DIY Screen printing..

http://ezscreenprint.com/

I played around with this a couple of years ago. 

[soggybag]

I like the look of the Ez Screen Print. What type of ink would you recommend?

[Altitude]

The guy who did the example for metal surfaces used Jacquard. Here are the links:

http://ezscreenprint.com/charlieessmeier.aspx

http://ezscreenprint.com/jacquardprintinginks.aspx

[Ice-9]

The guy who did the example for metal surfaces used Jacquard. Here are the links:

http://ezscreenprint.com/charlieessmeier.aspx

http://ezscreenprint.com/jacquardprintinginks.aspx

This is exactly what i have been experimenting with, and whilst the hires screens are ok they take a bit of messing on with to get the correct amount of light exposure and at £10 for 1 A4 sheet you want to get it right 1st time.
As for the Jacquard inks they need clear coating over the top as they are not very hard and just wash off with water.

[Altitude]

The guy who did the example for metal surfaces used Jacquard. Here are the links:

http://ezscreenprint.com/charlieessmeier.aspx

http://ezscreenprint.com/jacquardprintinginks.aspx

This is exactly what i have been experimenting with, and whilst the hires screens are ok they take a bit of messing on with to get the correct amount of light exposure and at £10 for 1 A4 sheet you want to get it right 1st time.
As for the Jacquard inks they need clear coating over the top as they are not very hard and just wash off with water.

Yeah, I had the same experience with exposure.  I will be giving this another shot this summer since it really is a cool solution though.  I've been using a lexan coated industrial labels for all my projects but those are a big sticker and being print on to an actual case would be great in some instances..

[Brymus]

Check this place they have every kind of solution for printing graphics at home.
Metalic foils, colored films, glow in the dark films, bake on films, water slide films, adhesive films, for laser and ink jet both.
Way cool >http://www.texascraft.com/hps/home.php
And the prices are really decent too.

[Altitude]

Check this place they have every kind of solution for printing graphics at home.
Metalic foils, colored films, glow in the dark films, bake on films, water slide films, adhesive films, for laser and ink jet both.
Way cool >http://www.texascraft.com/hps/home.php
And the prices are really decent too.

I can vouch for their "inkjet printable waterproof vinyl"

I used it on my sampler:

[Brymus]

That looks REALLY good Altitude.
I am blown away by how nice that looks.
Is that the adhesive ink jet film ?
Or could you be more specific on which one you used? Also in your opinion how durable is it ?
That looks new still,is that pic after playing it awhile or when first finished ?
All I have is an ink jet so if it is durable and can look that good ,I want to get the product you used.
Thanks for sharing,Bryan

[Altitude]

That looks REALLY good Altitude.
I am blown away by how nice that looks.
Is that the adhesive ink jet film ?
Or could you be more specific on which one you used? Also in your opinion how durable is it ?
That looks new still,is that pic after playing it awhile or when first finished ?
All I have is an ink jet so if it is durable and can look that good ,I want to get the product you used.
Thanks for sharing,Bryan

Bryan,

It is this stuff:

http://www.texascraft.com/hps/product.php?productid=16180&cat=255&page=1

It is fairly thick and freaking ridiculously durable.  In fact, good luck getting it off of anything you stick it to.  I is was not thrilled with the first iteration of that box and I tried to peel it off.  NO DICE.  It was a nightmare to get off, acetone, MEK, paint thinner, nafta nothing would even phase it.  I ended up taking a stainless steel wire wheel to it.   A buddy of mine who does my lexan overlays (he can do pre-cut holes and BIG sizes, pm if you want info) gave me some good advice about applying stuff like this: Spray the back with water with a couple drops of dish soap before applying.  This will allow you to move it around and then squeegee or roll out the water (also gets rid of air bubbles).  This is a must since this stuff literally will be there forever and you want to make sure you do it right the first time.

The quality is as you see it there.  VERY flat off the printer and depending on your printer and settings can blacker than that, albeit it is easy to get into problems with the ink running if you go overboard. That was the best setting for my printer without any colors running. I did go with a black background and although it is not "jet black" and it is black enough for me.  At a buck a sheet, it is not terribly expensive to experiment.  The ink does not run after drying and the label is water proof after that and although they recommend you rinse it with water to get any extra ink off, I didnt have any issues from my Canon printer.  One thing I did do was to give it a spray of semi gloss acrylic to give it a little bit of shine since it does come out so flat

[bumblebee]

The easiest way is to use white decal stock IMO.

[Brymus]

That looks REALLY good Altitude.
I am blown away by how nice that looks.
Is that the adhesive ink jet film ?
Or could you be more specific on which one you used? Also in your opinion how durable is it ?
That looks new still,is that pic after playing it awhile or when first finished ?
All I have is an ink jet so if it is durable and can look that good ,I want to get the product you used.
Thanks for sharing,Bryan

Bryan,

It is this stuff:

http://www.texascraft.com/hps/product.php?productid=16180&cat=255&page=1

It is fairly thick and freaking ridiculously durable.  In fact, good luck getting it off of anything you stick it to.  I is was not thrilled with the first iteration of that box and I tried to peel it off.  NO DICE.  It was a nightmare to get off, acetone, MEK, paint thinner, nafta nothing would even phase it.  I ended up taking a stainless steel wire wheel to it.   A buddy of mine who does my lexan overlays (he can do pre-cut holes and BIG sizes, pm if you want info) gave me some good advice about applying stuff like this: Spray the back with water with a couple drops of dish soap before applying.  This will allow you to move it around and then squeegee or roll out the water (also gets rid of air bubbles).  This is a must since this stuff literally will be there forever and you want to make sure you do it right the first time.

The quality is as you see it there.  VERY flat off the printer and depending on your printer and settings can blacker than that, albeit it is easy to get into problems with the ink running if you go overboard. That was the best setting for my printer without any colors running. I did go with a black background and although it is not "jet black" and it is black enough for me.  At a buck a sheet, it is not terribly expensive to experiment.  The ink does not run after drying and the label is water proof after that and although they recommend you rinse it with water to get any extra ink off, I didnt have any issues from my Canon printer.  One thing I did do was to give it a spray of semi gloss acrylic to give it a little bit of shine since it does come out so flat

Thank You ,that looks like just what I need.
And thanks for the info, just what I was looking for ,I am going to try some.
Bryan