diy sustainer pickup conversion

[psw]

I've explained that CA glue is not safe...it is not a preference. getting it on your fingers is bad enough (and not safe, just imagine these kids touching an eye from the fumes with hands as shown)...but the fumes alone are extremely toxic and damaging to the brain. Also, the fumes themselves can severely damage the eyes. It is in fact DANGEROUS.

It is not the equivalent of using a soldering iron in an inappropriate way as you suggested and had already been diagnosed as THE problem for the OP...unless you are in the habit of inserting said iron into a mains transformer with the power on? That's simply facetious, and I suggest you go consult your father for some more pithy comebacks before you make such allegories again.

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I realize that you were pushing alternative circuits...you said so from your first post...however you failed to answer the OP's question which in no way related to circuitry. I again, suggest you review the actual thread. Likewise your support of the clear trolling of Gurner, again false, the question was answered in page one. You jumped on Gurner, et al's, alternative circuit propaganda though it had been shut down at length and was way OT.

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Also, it is not unsafe to use a soldering iron to strip enameled wire, but that coating is a tough plastic and this is not a good way of doing it. Also, it is clearly inappropriate in this application where there is a proliferation of water based glue. You surely can see that burning such materials is quite likely to build a carbon film and as such create a resistance that will give false readings. It was suggested by me and correctly diagnosed as THE problem the OP was having in the first pages...you failed to take note, and turned it on me. I suggest for the reason given in this oparagraph, that it is ill advised in any application...you may want to review your methods with this in mind.

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I appreciate your apologies, but none of your posts addressed the questions trying in vein to be answered, chiefly by myself...no one but you and Gurner really were pushing the circuitry aspects, all the legit posts were in trying to replicate MY design of a DRIVER and had already made a commitment to the F/R circuit...as such, all this was off topic and contributed to the wealth of offensive material (especially in your condescending remarks directed specifically towards me with out acknowledgment of your mistakes and role in this and your own use of "age" as an authority in such matters, not mine) and bad and poor misinformation that had already been cleared up in succinct posts very early on in this thread.

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I'd like you to reflect that in fact, my generalizations about this community not all being, or even mostly, adept at electronics, though you may well be, is in fact true as witness by the standard of this thread alone. You and others took offense at that apparently, but I suggest that there is more than enough evidence that this forum is not as authoritative as was put, nor the helpful and supportive forum of "experts" that it was claimed to be.

As far as "authority" goes...not one of the people here, except those who were having problems and asking for my help, (one at least having had all this explained before elsewhere this month, and so wasting my time and everyone elses, not that it was the subject of the first post in this thread and already answered)...not one of the people here stuck to the topic at hand and I have had to withstand 6 PAGES! of maligning, condescending mis-information from people with no experience at all in these matters, no work to show, obvious trolls from other forums not a part of the "regular community here", people with 'secret widget' aspirations...and a continual barrage of abuse directed specifically at me. Me, the originator and apparently the only one of all the people contributing here who has even tried and built these things...my experience and knowledge of the project is questioned? No not any of you except myself and those actually doing this, had even tried this project at all, but then attempted to pass themselves off as "experts" while maligning me, and my work, the actual subject of this thread.

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So, how does one account for this...well, I have only andronico father to explain it apparently...his view was to teach his son to reply with as condescending and pointlessly intellectually bankrupt and offensive remark that he could muster. Well done dad, your son has made your proud. As for the rest of the miscreants here that chose to look on or even pile on or be distracted by these antics, you really need to take a good hard look at yourselves, and I hope the moderators do too.

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Bear in mind, contrary to what Gurner imagines and hopes for himself...I have never profited from this, in fact it has cost me a lot in many ways and attracted an extraordinary amount of abuse. I made these things for myself, I shared freely, I have supported it as best I can for years. But, I built these things for myself and largely succeeded in the second page of that huge thread...and refined to this design over 6 years ago.

Sorry, a "sorry"  from one minor person no where near covers the damage this does to me personally, especially in view of the antics people (some who have reappeared here) have been up to. Do any of you really imagine I get my jollies being pursued around the internet and fending off constant abuse and mis-information from ill informed cretins? No, I don't, and I've lost all patience with it.

Gurner has no idea about the concept of my work, is a troll, and has nothing yet, and on past record, possibly never without a lot of effort and WORK. Probably without my driver design or similar that has shown to work without his postulating. You andronico, at least have said "sorry", but you stood blithely by and tacitly recommended alternatives without any knowledge of the efficacy of such recommendations.

And, in the end, you first try and use your age as "authority" against me, then use my age as if I am senile or something...and to top it off...out of the mouth of your father. Can you not see how incredibly crappy that is? And you found what I suggested and is clearly true about the general caliber of people on this forum to be 'offensive'...well, excuse me...!!! Your contribution is enough evidence for me, but not as bad as some.


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@deadastronaut...if you require assistance, refer to the original tutorials and if things are unclear, you may contact me directly. At least you are making an effort in the right direction and I suspect destined for success. Good luck!

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And for those who seem compelled to pursue and interject into every post I post under my own name anywhere across the internet on this subject, and in at least one case, referring to my personal life. Get a life!

[Paul Marossy]

I've explained that CA glue is not safe...it is not a preference. getting it on your fingers is bad enough (and not safe, just imagine these kids touching an eye from the fumes with hands as shown)...but the fumes alone are extremely toxic and damaging to the brain. Also, the fumes themselves can severely damage the eyes. It is in fact DANGEROUS.

Yeah, I've had those fumes get in my eyes. It's about just as bad as strong ammonia, but it doesn't get in your nose the same way. Years ago when I was still board drafting, I used to have to change the ammonia bottle on blueprint machines. A fresh bottle was quite nasty to deal with.

I have never profited from this, in fact it has cost me a lot in many ways and attracted an extraordinary amount of abuse. I made these things for myself, I shared freely, I have supported it as best I can for years. But, I built these things for myself and largely succeeded in the second page of that huge thread...and refined to this design over 6 years ago.

I am mystified as to why all the abuse has to come into play. It's always the few bad apples that ruin it for everyone else. I guess some people have to put down other people in order to feel good about themselves, eh?

[trad3mark]

FAO psw:

was only thinking outside the box a bit, and trying to save myself time and money. I've been reading my old physics notes, and i was 100% sure the theory was sound. In fact, it is. Cos the magnet (pole pieces) and the coil were in the correct position to generate the magnetic field. HOWEVER when i went back to go look at the amplifier part, (whether it's ruby one or whatever is irrelevant) because each pickup coil has a resistance of 8k instead of 8R, you'd need a ridiculous amplifier for it to work. I think i'm right in saying that amplifiers, where the speaker comes in, looks for either 4ohm, 8ohm or 16ohm speakers, so 8k is WAAAAY off!!

So thats fair enough. In theory, fine, in practice, not. Now, continuing the journey of exploration, lets look at what i do have. I have 2 perfectly good bobbins, 2 sets of pole pieces, a good magnet, and all the other crap like spacers etc etc. So i probably have a lot of the key components. What are my options? Well as far as i can see, i could either make a driver out of 1 bobbin, or a driver out of both bobbins. For aesthetic reason, my instincy is to use both bobbins, so it'll fit into the humbucker slot nicely, and not look odd, or anything of the sorts. I've also worked out where i'll put the battery and circuit, and where i'll move the knobs too etc etc. But that's details for later.

Now, in making this sort of humbucker-driver, am i better off winding BOTH coils to 8 ohms, or winding both to 4, so they've a combined resistance of 8?

[Gurner]

Now, in making this sort of humbucker-driver, am i better off winding BOTH coils to 8 ohms, or winding both to 4, so they've a combined resistance of 8?

Neither of the above.

If you want to make a humbucker sustainer driver, you'd be better off winding both coils to a DC resistance of 16 ohms & then connecting them in parallel - this yields a DC resistance of 8 Ohms, but results in lower inductance vs series connected coils  (I'll let psw explain all about inductive reactance, becuase I found out via him yesterday that I don't know)

[psw]

@Gurner

It's not that you don't know...it is that you assume that a coil is a coil is a coil...where the wire gauge, coil, turns, depth, resulting resonance, etc...all kinds of factors create different characteristics to such inductors. Yes, there are factors like inductive reactance to consider, and many many more...whoever, you need to have the tools to measure it for any given design, have people replicate such designs exactly, be able to work out circuit networks to exactly compensate, etc...

My ideas were to circumvent these concerns by making a design that would work within a range without such compenstation...it is not that there are not phase differences, and lots of other factors, back EMF, but there are only so many factors that you are going to be able to deal with for any one given inductor...if others can't replicate exactly the driver intended for your circuit, then the circuit needs to be reevaluated with the qualities of the new driver in mind.

You will notice that for instance, for years and years fernandes would not offer their 'systems' outside of their own guitars. Even now, they typically supply the bridge HB pickup to control the input source, as well as their driver...to ensure they work. And of course, sensitive to factors such as the distance between the source pickup and the driver ("not recommended for 24 fret guitars", etc) and the string gauge.

I'm not suggesting gurner that you don't know, but that you have no work to show, and have spent an excessive amount of time badgering me, avoiding openly discussing your own ideas (even as you criticize me for not giving you schematics), etc...and simply being deceptive and frequently abusive in that approach.

It is not for me to explain such things, it is just for me to show that my design does in fact work even though such factors exist, what that design is (that will work with plain amplifiers in the guitars range), demonstrate that, and have it repeatedly verified as not just applying to my work and my guitars. This I ahve done, over 6 years ago...these threads are about that work.

It is not about your "new" work. There is nothing new about dual coil drivers...I've made them, all the commercial systems use them...they are more usual than my single coil typical drivers. Many adhere to this design approach.

I typically don't, because the single coil has numerous advantages inherent in it that work in favour of the broader criteria (for me...no loss of neck pickup, etc) and against thos criteria in the bigger dual coil designs.

We have seen dual coil designs work, you have seen mine..and even hex designs work (with radically different design characteristics)...but do they work as well (yes, quite likely)...do they work "better" (potentially a matter of opinion, not been 'verified' to be true, do from my experience with them have different characteristics (have a wider driving apature that spans more vibration nodes and anti-nodes, less "throw" through mutual attraction between the opposite magnet coils). Most people have found that the attraction is to cut back on EMI as an HB will cancel noise...however, if the single coil can do this too, where exactly is the drive advantage in these strategies?

I use extremely compact size and profile of coil all directly under the string and close to it, to isolate the influence of EMI...the dual coil designs are no where near as compact and can not be. For instance, you propose as I have done and many before, 2x 16 ohms in parallel as an equivalent to a single coil 8 ohm thin coil design such as mine...yes? And, by your mocking tone, you seem to think you can know the inductance reactance of such a coil (the resonance, etc...and by comparison with my own design (that I have to assume you have not built and tested)? I suggest that you don't, but even if you have...have you built such coils and can absolutely on that basis suggest to others that this will work 'just as well' based on resistance measurements alone? And work without a special circuit with phase compensation?

All I can say is that, the formula of a thin coil wound with 0.2mm wire, etc...has a consistent record of being able to work and work well, with simple (or indeed more complex) circuitry. Those who do advocate such designs have all tended towards far more advanced strategies in terms of AGC especially...such as Cols circuit designed to drive them or all of the commercial units. So, there simply is not the 'record' there to know that these things will work for complete amateurs and others who don't have the time or patience to delve as deeply as you feel the need to do into such areas.

There are people her though who are far more knowledgeable about such things than that, I designed my way around it. The ebow did it in much the same way and I'd suggest from what I've seen, in much the same approach to my trial and error, keep plugging away at it till I find something that will work, than to get bogged down in the theory. You will of course I used to worry excessively about such things, mislead in this by the patents to a large extent...but I made far more progress when I put it aside and asked, is there a work around.

It is not for me to "school you" Gurner except on decent and non-deceptive behaviour. I have no way of knowing what you know or dont...you still have not even confirmed that you came here less than a month ago with the idea of making a sustainer. You claim yourself to be "a hobbyist and not a designer" these are the only 'clues' you have so far given away on this forum at all. Most of the posts have in fact been here (look at the stats) and of little relevance nor with any working knowledge of my design, or in fact any evidence that you have yet made any working sustainer.

However, these people all seem to be asking about my work, simple amplification...not asking about inductance and such...and really...as always...if you seek to discuss such things...start a thread and don't hijack threads on other ideas and practical work.

You know...if someone starts a thread on a particular stomp box that they are working on or having problems with...I really don't think they would appreciate constant interjections from someone who is effectively saying...I don't like that design and can do it better myself, just have nothing to say about that...but you really should follow me. NO...the person would like to have help with what they are working on.

[psw]

FAO psw:

was only thinking outside the box a bit, and trying to save myself time and money. I've been reading my old physics notes, and i was 100% sure the theory was sound. In fact, it is. Cos the magnet (pole pieces) and the coil were in the correct position to generate the magnetic field. HOWEVER when i went back to go look at the amplifier part, (whether it's ruby one or whatever is irrelevant) because each pickup coil has a resistance of 8k instead of 8R, you'd need a ridiculous amplifier for it to work. I think i'm right in saying that amplifiers, where the speaker comes in, looks for either 4ohm, 8ohm or 16ohm speakers, so 8k is WAAAAY off!!

Unfortunately though...you were asking the exact same questions that you asked on your own PG thread on May 14 and neglected to mention and had the exact same proposal (using an 8K pickup coil as a driver) that was already explained from POST 1 of this thread...did you read the answers already given?

What you need to do is what Deadastronaut is doing, exactly...or Primal (who I provided links for...or Banika (who has given a tutorial) or what countless others ahve done. Make DRIVER coil with the qualities of design (inductance, resonance, efficiency, force to power, etc) that will work with your proposed circuit. If you are proposing a very simple amplifier circuit or a very simple design, that has been proven before to work, I can suggest you could use mine.

If you would like to follow Gurners advice, with no apparent experience....though many have shown such drivers to work, often with different wires gauges and such...perhaps he can provide you with the details and support required.

So thats fair enough. In theory, fine, in practice, not. Now, continuing the journey of exploration, lets look at what i do have.

I have 2 perfectly good bobbins, 2 sets of pole pieces, a good magnet, and all the other crap like spacers etc etc. So i probably have a lot of the key components. What are my options? Well as far as i can see, i could either make a driver out of 1 bobbin, or a driver out of both bobbins. For aesthetic reason, my instincy is to use both bobbins, so it'll fit into the humbucker slot nicely, and not look odd, or anything of the sorts. I've also worked out where i'll put the battery and circuit, and where i'll move the knobs too etc etc. But that's details for later.

Now, in making this sort of humbucker-driver, am i better off winding BOTH coils to 8 ohms, or winding both to 4, so they've a combined resistance of 8?

As you are obviously inexperienced and are not wanting to follow Gurner down the rabbit hole of measuring the inductance reactance of a new design...and not seeking to create more elaborate circuits of your own design.

Your options are the same as already been given and shown by Primal to have worked along with others.

"block" one coil, preferably the slug coil, leaving 3mm in the top half. Wind with PVA glue or similar (not CA or epoxy) to 8 ohms as per all the tutorials linked (you have looked at these?) and put the whole thing back together with the driver closer to the neck, and power with a small amplifer with buffer or preamp of your choice (the F/R is an obvious and much used example) and tweak as you feel necessary (I use a 100uF output cap for instance...you choice) and make it exactly like everyone else has done before you...and you will get something pretty much that sounds like (see recordings) like my original designs and much like my current designs...a wide dynamic range, sustaining device.

On the battery, it is important that you can get to it. On a strat, in the pickup cavity is not a good idea for instance as the strings would likely have to come off every time you want to get into it...rear cavities are ideal.

The end result would be a single coil driver, exactly like mine with known qualities...and a blank coil beside it. Primal left that other coil wound and could use it as a single coil on it's own...but found it not to his liking and complicated the switching overly compared to the bridge pickup only option.

Aesthetics are important to my criteria and low mod. I don't blame you for considering this. I would however, test all of this outside the guitar as suggested before installation or any permanent mods to the guitar...as always.

You could wind two coils, as Gurner suggested, with unspecified wire gauge, to 16 ohms each (so twice that of my design x2) and wire them in parallel. This would give the right resistance mode, I'll let Gurner speak to the inductance reactance and performance aspects of such a design, I don't know what a pair of coils of twice the size and more than twice the work to construct, will behave like. Equally, on the same uninformed advice, you could block them up even more and make two 4 ohm coils and wire in parallel and get an 8 ohm load...I can also not speak to the other specifications of this design, or how  or if it would perform.

If you use the safe and proven method of PVA like glues in the winding, you will be able to recycle your components to explore such avenues in the future should you choose to do so with my design. If you had not stripped both coils, you could have had a low powered single coil (HB split) next to your driver for free instead of an empty bobbin...but I wouldn't be overly concerned about that.

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I'm sorry for my impatience, if you would like my personal guidance, my email or other contacts are available from my profile and I can endeavour to help you there.

However, I have to say, most of this including the two dual coil options (2x16ohms parallel and 2x4ohm series) was explained as your first reply along with why you could not use the pickup coil and that you would have to buy the correct or appropriate wire and wind a coil...so, it is not like you have not alread been told about these things...or indeed that this was exactly what this thread originally explained...yet again. It is the most often asked and repeated of explanations...so again...

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=43483

You were directed to the tutorials in the reference section...the links to them were provided in this thread...there is no reason at all to try and follow the wide ranging "discussions" that would more suit the interests of a persson like a Gurner, or ever read the huge thread...as was explained.

The answers then, continues to remain the same...

first reply from col..someone with experience in dual coil designs...

Use one or both coils as driver (I'd go with two). As long as the inductance is around 1.2 mH and the resistance is about 8ohm.
So if you're using two coils, you want either two 16 ohm 2.4mH coils in parallel, or two 4 ohm 0.6 mH coils in series.

You can measure the inductance and understand that this is more than twice the work, twice the size and what he means by series and parallel, etc...and are prepared to experiment like that?

For my complete answer...again...

For the tutorials, look at the electronics reference section.

Also, search out primals LP project from years back...he would a driver onto one half of an HB with complete success. The other half could be used as a single coil neck pickup, but he reported the strength and sound was rather low, so didn't bother as I recall. Even made the circuit small enough to fit in an HB selector cavity!

Some things are a little tricky to understand in your posts...the main thread is likely to confuse, it was an ongoing discussion that ranged widely over many years...check out the tutorials, the driver winding one shows the essentials say of potting and winding.

QUOTE
looks like i would have to buy stuff for this then. That sucks, cos it totally delays it by a while. I measured the resistance of each coil. 8.4 and 8.2. not bad.


I'm not sure what you are saying here...have you already wound driver coils? It sounds like you ahve measured the pickup coils, in which case, the wire is all wrong and you are likely reading 8.4K ohms...that's 8,400 ohms...vastly different from 8ohms. Few will have the correct wire on hand...for dual coil designs, I defer to cols specs...

As here, I pointed you to the tutorials...I take it that you have now seen these?

I pointed out that they included Primals project doing exactly what I am suggesting on an HB pickup...you looked that up, yes?

You  have studied the three post Pictorial on driver winding that I have linked continuously? You understand the importance of potting, what white PVA glue is, that you need to wind with the glue from the start, that the wire gauge is 0.2mm, that you wind to or perhaps just under 8 ohms, that you will need to "block up" the bobbin to leave a 3mm space for this coil in the top half, in a manner as shown in the Banika and other tutorials? Yes?

Really...until you have taken all this in, assembled the appropriate materials and read the relatively succinct advice given (until, like this thread, your thread was immediately hijacked...a typical strategy of the likes of Gurner, instead of starting his own thread in an appropriate section under his own name)...then it is unlikely that you will be successful.

However, Deadasstronaut her seems to be doing exactly that, so perhaps you could get together on that...or as I say, if you want or need particular advice (short of explaining inducatnce reactance) you could contact me directly.

I really think though, that this thread is not able to publicly discuss specific and helpful proven advice on my design ideas or even proven ideas of others, without the constant interjections of the like and particularly Gurner who is quick with the taunts, but nothing to show for it and I suspect not prepared to actually help from a base of actual proven knowledge of such things. I'd suggest you contact him directly if you seek his support and follow his theoretical ideas and machinations...but of course, he has deleted his emails from you access to avoid this and has yet to confirm that he has done any actual work on any sustainer and to post his results, let alone have them verified.

So...you know how to contact me...the materials have been linked, you were told before...and you didn't understand then. These things, as with pickups, are not about the resistance measurements at all...Gurner is on the right track there, but practically drawing people such as yourself down a garden path, interesting, but still no sustainer. This is not the place to discuss it, it has already been discussed at length before, it was open, but because of these constant digs, my thread has been closed and will remain so indefinitely. But there is no need to confuse yourself with siuch matters, if you can follow very simple illustrated instructions.

Please understand Trad3mark...these things were all explained as illustrated here already, and again for another in the start of this thread. This, particularly in my flu ridden state, is trying on the nerves...wht did you really expect people her to suggest...that despite what you were told, you could still just use the pickup as a driver? It certainly makes me wonder, you could have at least reminded me that I and others had already addressed this with you before. Col was the first to reply, he really has got proven experience in dual coil designs, as per my post, I'd be speaking to him about what he suggests in wire and such, if you want to go down that route...at least he has made a few of the things.

[psw]

Gurner...

I don't think anyone here, and certainly not me, has any objection to you having and interet in and building your perfect sustainer system.

What they don't need, and certainly not me, and that we have all made clear is ill informed advice and constant personal asides directed at me.

I am not questioning your knowledge, I have no idea of what you know. I assume you are working on a sustainer, you have as much but not actually said so. But your posts don't indicate you ahve anything yet, and that you are not as adept as you seem to make yourself out to be in this thread...for instance

So when the phase formula 'going gets tough'    gurner gets  erhm, I mean ......goes.  icon_redface

It's a fair cop - in the end I went the kludgers way - ie trial & error & a scope, sig gen & whole heap of resistors/caps - by swapping them in/out I got in the general ballpark for the phase shift I need  icon_lol

Thanks all for you input - hopefully, someone better at trig/maths than I can put RG's superb transposition above to good use!

You asked the question, might have even been more helpful answers if they knew what they were working on...I don't see anything that indicates a more advanced approach than myself or many others have taken in these aspects.

You surely must see that the qualities of the inductor...the driver...are what you need to base your phase correction on. Without a consistency of a known driver design, your 'calculations' and 'circuit design' will only apply to that particular driver, and not a 'universal' circuit as you request from me, and I suggest, can't exist without a given driver at least...let alone the qualities of the drive signal, the distance between the pickup and the driver and other factors...

You still seem oblivious that the whole point of my work and designs in terms of drivers, is to create a device of the right characteristics to work effectively without such compensation. To suggest that a dual coil design with 2x16 ohms in parallel is equivalent is adventurous to say the least.

Perhaps, if ou are working with such a design, you will need phase compensation to work effectively...certain what some call "the lag and lead time" (see FR patent for instance) may well need to be addressed. Good luck with that, your approach was much like mine...but such things will only be applicable and certainly approximate without the measurements and maths...at best...and specific to your particular driver qualities.

Now..if you could just find your way clear to just starting a thread and openly discussing what you are working on, you may well find that there are people here that can help and perhaps even do the maths for you say...there are some people who have a lot of expertise in this area in this forum, you had their ear.

What I am curious about, and I have no explanation why yourself and some others over at PG can't find there way clear to do what I did, openly and honestly and just start a thread, say what you are trying to do, show your progress, get some results, post up a tutorial of how others can replicate it...instead of hijacking others threads and these constant asides towards me personally? It simply makes no sense at all does it?

I hope you do find your sustainer Nirvana, but regardless of what you come up with, there will still be people that want a far simpler solution, that's within their capabilities, provides the response that they want, and works with the instrument and restrictions of it, that they choose.

So...yes, you can make more elaborate circuits..you surely know that myself and others have...but will they practically fit in a given guitar practically...or work with the driver that is necessary to keep their choice of neck pickup...or whateer their criteria is for the instrument as a whole.

But yes...is it possible to explain why you don't take the normal everyday expected route in these things. Start a thread, gather what help you need, build a working prototype, show your work and details, have others build and verify, perhaps suggest improvements, write a tutorial...and not compare or make 'competition' up with me or others for what really is a 'pissing contest' to see if I know more than you...or whatever your last post was supposed to imply.

I have had some of my more "advanced" circuits and ideas looked over and tested, even supplied complete guitar systems with sustainers...albeit rare and for special projects, largely at a cost to me...but have always done so under strict and legally binding confidentiality agreements. These agreements apply not only to my work, but also that of the people involved in the project. The last one I was involved with involved a very major pickup manufacturer and a USA custom builder for a guitar for a major recording and performing artist and prominent 'guitar star'. It takes a project of such interest and results to tempt me to build anything for anyone but myself. That is an understandable prerogative and bound by legal restrictions which I respect. I don't give away everything I have worked on or been successful in (or even all my failures) publically, or just because someone tries to goad me into doing so under an assumed name from belfast.

I hope that in that regard, people can respect that. But, that is not to say that the old 6 year old designs and circuit strategies are not effective as a good simple proven design to start with. You and many others clearly have the ability to come up with a basic circuit or replicate those given and tried, and my driver design or those of others, and actually have put it to the test, certainly in less time than it takes to pursue me in this pissing contest over it. You may well, and seem to be indicating, that you want to follow your own way, or perhaps to reinvent the wheel with the commercial systems...which is good too...but I don't see how all these asides towards me and hijacking threads and generally avoiding ever saying what you are actually here to do...even in your own threads...achieves?

Is it at all possible for your to answer these very simple questions...why the avoidance of even saying what you are doing and doing so under your own name in your own thread without reference to me?

[trad3mark]

pete that cleared it all up.

I think my frustration and your frustration were not all that different. My frustration was that any of the tutorials that people linked to had something missing, and like the original page on those other forums, they're about 400 pages long, and i simply do not have the time to read through 400 very long pages.

I'm heading into town tomorrow, and i'll get some wire then. I think peats have 28, 30, and 32 guage wire, so i'll need to go back and double check which one i need. Curse my short term memory!! I completely agree with the aesthetics thing. I figure i might leave one coil as a sort of dead coil, with the coil still on it, but ground it to the plate of the pickup thing, so it shouldn't have any effect on anything. if it does, i'll take it out and rip off the wiring.

As far as the buffer amp part goes, i'll breadboard a few. I think i can get away with not having to do any extra routing on this. My plan was to remove the pickup toggle switch, replace it with a DPDT switch as part of the amp (as an on-off switch for the sustainer) and also fit a little battery clasp in there. It's a surprisingly big cavity, so i think i could make it all fit. It measures 65mm x 30mm x 40mm (Length x width x depth) which seems like a perfect space for the sustainer circuit. The guitar has 3 knobs on it, so i figure i'd go with Tone, Volume and a killswitch. I'm tempted to try out the Big Muff tone filter in a guitar situation, but i figure it's a very optimistic plan heh!

So back to the driver, my revised plan then will be to use the bobbin with the screws, and wrap it to 8R, going 3mm deep, using PVA after every few windings (i've a tonne of PVA) and have a dead coil beside it so it looks pretty.

I was thinking of other things to put in beside it just to look cool. All my ideas weren't great. An old russian tube, some LED's and an AA battery all came to mind, but i think it'd look messy and unfinished.

Bring on the weekend. Optimistic as it may be, it would be nice to have a working sustainer by monday.

[deadastronaut]

waheyyyyy....built a coil.....dont tell me its crap...lol...lol....lol....

[Gurner]

Well done ...it looks awful**   (what wire gauge is that you've used?)

What was the coil's final DC resistance reading? (did you count your turns?)




** just pulling yer leg, no harm meant!!

[deadastronaut]

Well done ...it looks awful**   (what wire gauge is that you've used?)

What was the coil's final DC resistance reading? (did you count your turns?)




** just pulling yer leg, no harm meant!!

no worries man...its 0.246mm couldnt get 0.2mm.. or something..i ripped the label off it lol...

i wound it 162 times...and got a reading of 10.2 ohms...had to unwind a few times and
snip it..more is better than less.for sure......but yeah its bang on 8 ohms now...

still looks bad lol.....



lol. rob.

[psw]

No Tutorials are 400 pages long, that is 8 years of discussion that are that long...it's been explained...

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=16984

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=24211

0.246mm is more than 25% out...as a result, many have found poor results, particularly in the high strings and in overall efficiency...trying to compensate for this with more power will only encourage more EMI and problems. This is obviously not the specifications, you will get A result, but obviously, I can't vouch for it if that far out of spec.

I'm not sure what glue you used, or why it turned out so messy...you could have course have wiped the glue off to set...white glue dries clear...and I noticed you chose to ignore the use of PVC tape to bind it up as per the tutorial

However a good go, didn't take long I bet...and by using waterbased softer glues that wont harm you, it will be reverable if the driver does not perform to expectations. The quality is certainly good enough to work, the lack of specs attention, I'can't explain that...(oh, don't ahve a 386, give me a 311, that will fit in the same space...not the best strategy do you think...the inductor (ie driver) is a vital electronic component). Good example of how far out the "calculators" are for these things though, gurner calculated 165 turns for thicker wire...

....

Is it at all possible for your to answer these very simple questions...why the avoidance of even saying what you are doing and doing so under your own name in your own thread without reference to me?

Guess not...

It would be good at least to know if you have ever done this for the people you seem to be advising on such things as 2x16 ohm drivers and the specific wire gauge and such you would propose and support...but if you can't answer even the simple questions put about motivation, you seem unlikely to know that...

[deadastronaut]

no worries psw i wont blame you for anything ok.....lol.

i did use wood glue..and yes i will wrap in tape etc..
i was so excited i just snapped a pic before it was done ok...i'll tidy it up a bit ....i promise..
now to butcher that  old crapocaster......wahhhhheyyyyyyyy...!!!!!!!!!!

i got told off!....

only joking...

cheers. rob.

[Gurner]

psw - steady on there chap, you're becoming a little dilerious & obsessive about my posts?

Suffice to say I wouldn't chime in if I wasn't profoundly confident wrt what I was chiming in with (like I say, this is a more 'learned' gathering than other guitar forums - I wouldn't want to leave myself open to ridicule by being plain wrong or ahem 'wishy washy')

Oh & while I'm here - I didn't calculate that 169 turns would equal 8 ohms - the well respected (& very well used by the pickup winding community) Ziegler pickup winding calculator did. It is very accurate - & the discrepancy has arisen, because I merely quickly fed into it some rough 'plucked out the air' bobbin dimensions (as a 'guide'). And I'm pretty certain that the bobbin dimensions I used will not exactly match the bobbin used by deadastronaut.

With the Ziegler caclulator, the bobbin core width & length dimensions you feed into it are absolutely key, as those two dimensions dictate the bobbin circumference, which in turns dictates how much DC resistance each single winding adds to the grand total (but I'm sure you knew this? Perhaps you simply overlooked it in your rush to dis'  )



PS Re Stripping enamelled copper - hehe, using 'wet & dry' is rather quaint, but not particularly 'street'    ....& potting with wood glue as you wind is great fun - lovely & messy ....a bit like 'colouring in' or fingerpainting etc - but you'll not catch too many folks who make coils frequently actually using PVA.

[psw]

no worries psw i wont blame you for anything ok.....lol.

i did use wood glue..and yes i will wrap in tape etc..
i was so excited i just snapped a pic before it was done ok...i'll tidy it up a bit ....i promise..
now to butcher that  old crapocaster......wahhhhheyyyyyyyy...!!!!!!!!!!

i got told off!....

only joking...

cheers. rob.

It looks fine and quite workable, except that the wire thing...if you look at a cross section of a wire, say 2.5cm and take the area distance between a 2cm diameter circle in the middle of it...and work out the area of distance, the mass left outside of the 2cm...it may seem a small discrepancy...it may seem a small difference...it's only 0.05 but in fact is quite a lot. I know that that wire can mean making some effort to find it, but it was not chosen at random..you will notice that I supplied Bankia with his wire from the other side of the world on his tutorial, but for comparative results it is important.

However, you should get quite a lot out of it...I just get a lot of people come back with the "it didn't work, must be the design, therefore the designer"...when it is typical (and you can see multiple examples on this thread) that people just simply do not stick to a known formula that will work or do it properly or with adequate skill.

Before modifying the guitar...I would build the circuit and run a line directly from the bridge pickup, out of the guitar to it...then hold the driver over the strings well away from all pickups, upside down over the strings...to ensure that it works (you don't really need any switching to do this, reverse the driver leads for the harmonic effect). Before this test, I would also connect a small speaker (8ohms) to your circuit and make sure that it is in fact working as an amplifier before hooking up a driver which is not going to make any sound.

good luck

[trad3mark]

psw how much room for error did you find between wire gauges? everywhere local to me seems to stock either 0.19mm or 0.21 as the closest to 0.2.

[psw]

psw - steady on there chap, you're becoming a little dilerious & obsessive about my posts?

Well, statistically it seems to be you...

Suffice to say I wouldn't chime in if I wasn't profoundly confident wrt what I was chiming in with (like I say, this is a more 'learned' gathering than other guitar forums - I wouldn't want to leave myself open to ridicule by being plain wrong or ahem 'wishy washy')

Where is the evidence that you are working on anything but an 'improved widget" at all...let alone made one of these things. As someone with less than a month on this forum and almost all of your posts here...exactly where is any of this "knowledge" that you presume to co-opt from others on this forum come from?

Oh & while I'm here - I didn't calculate that 169 turns would equal 8 ohms - the well respected (& very  well used by the pickup winding community) Ziegler pickup winding calculator did. It is very  accurate - & the discrepancy has arisen, because I merely quickly fed into it some rough 'plucked out the air' bobbin dimensions (as a 'guide'). And I'm pretty certain that the bobbin dimensions I used will not exactly match the bobbin used by deadastronaut.

Did you find it direct, or did you find it as one of the tools often used as a guide from the sustainer thread. Either way, it has already pointed out elsewhere that such things are notoriously inaccurate, it is a guide and very good for that...everyone is using slightly different core and bobbin sizes and you quoted entered the entirely different gauge than specified wire for the design when you did do your example...any reason for that?

With the Ziegler caclulator, the bobbin core width & length dimensions you feed into it are absolutely key, as those two dimensions dictate the bobbin circumference, which in turns dictates how much DC resistance each single winding adds to the grand total (but I'm sure you knew this? Perhaps you simply overlooked it in your rush to dis'  Tongue)

No...because I had already advised against worrying about such things as you can wind the coil as fast as all the futzing around finding the guide winds...generally it does work out in that kind of ball park so that 'guide number' is already known...I described how to measure the wire resistance...and pot the coil...

However, along with the bobbin and such necessary for these calculators to work...is the skill of the winder whcih can not be known. This becomes more exaggerated with hand winding, the scatter winding effect and particularly with thick wire gauges...many, many times thicker than the pickup wire it was designed to calculate...because ot hte tendency to create quite a few gaps, and sometimes even stretch (causing the wire gauge to thin down) at the ends of an elongated coil. SO...no, it wasn't to "dis" you...it was sound advice for this application borne from the use of this calculator by myself and many others with this kind of thing for many years.

And your advice is borne from?...well...you won't say...which of course was the question put to you for some time now from myself and others.

....

PS Re Stripping enamelled copper - hehe, using 'wet & dry' is rather quaint, but not particularly 'street'...

The "wet and dry" method is in fact the way suggested in the pickup forum and used to from my pickup making activities (which was originally why I joined PG and why of course I was interested in sustainers as being like a "reverse pickup" of sorts...and the crucial differences). It is extremely cred in the pickup communities and when working with such fine wires...most people you will find have heard of it and many, like me will have a little piece taped to the side of their winder for just such a purpose.

....& potting with wood glue as you wind is great fun - lovely & messy ....a bit like 'colouring in' or fingerpainting etc - but you'll not catch too many folks who make coils frequently actually using PVA.

The PVA method is safe and works perfectly and is reversible should people seek to rewind a bobbin and not waste magnets and materials if they...say for instance...didn't use the right wire for my design and the results are less than expected, or they built a coil that does not adequately work for a host of common reasons, usually related to internal vibration.

It is safe...many people making these things are very young and naive and just seek to make the thing...I advise common working cheap products that they probably already have with a long standing proven history. CA glue is massively unsafe in this activity. Paraffin wax (though commonly used with pickup potting) can be an extreme fire danger...it must also be applied after winding and is generally found not to provide sufficient penetration by comparison with this application. As the wax penetrates the windings, the copper wire absorbs the heat in the wax starting to set it a few winds in and closing the pores...often leaving an internal unseen area of unpotted coil. At the very least, with people unaccustomed to working with it, it can be hazardous and non-effective. Many commercial applications for inductors require a "solid coil" for which such potting techniques are not adequate...for these applications there is a wire with a coating that will melt while remaining insulated with the application of a current to it...if people can't get the right wire gauge, I am hardly likely to suggest they seek out such wire and attempt to work with it.

No...I don't know which folks you are referring to...if it were you, i would have thought you'd offer up your alternative and show how you do "all these coils"...but alas, you can't yet even say if you have any experience in sustainers, let alone winding coils...

I am just trying to clear up the mis-information you seem to be continually presenting...and seemingly avoiding just doing your own work or even talking or presenting it.

The reality is that, the only sure way (and it is not unheard of, there are many strategies for ensuring a potted coil) especially with people who have never made a coil before...and with one with so few turns, thick wire and done be hand...is to pot with glue as you wind. All successful sustainers have been done in such a manner...including the eBow and others. In my more modern versions, I use epoxy...but not some 5 minute stuff from the hardware store...and largely because my more modern versions have no supporting bobbins at all...some not even cores of magnets...like the wafer coil. It too can be messy and is not for amateurs. I advise against it for such people as typically approach this simple project.

Also, dry PVA is much the same as the qualites of PVC which of course is the industry standard for insulating tape on wires and such....it seems highly appropriate...and unlike bad alternatives like CA, is designed to have gap filling qualities ideal for this purpose. So...while you seem to think it "quaint" and demean this solution as 'kindergarten-ish" and so me and my work (which is proven and public...unlike yours, if there is any at all) it is the best and most appropriate that I could find that WORKS and has a proven record...is safe...is reversible...that costs next to nothing...and is far less "messy" compared to what some suggest...absolutely risk free, extremely effective insulation material, practically free, WORKS! The importance of potting can not be under-estimated...and since for all your jibing you have not offered an alternative...it is not at all helpful.

Remember, like the wire gauge (which you also have not suggested an alternative) and the design generally (which you have not offered an alternative) the potting is frequently left out. Only last month a person potted the coil with playdoh...seriously...and sounded much like the OP of this thread and several others actually making these things. Commonly, people just leave it out...and the result is something that does not work and squeals uncontrollably from internal vibrations...audibly...form the driver itself, not from feedback. The same has occured with wax potted coils and other alternatives...but never with PVA wound with the "potting".

The use of PVC tape at the end to bind it up, helps with the clamping to keep the coil nice and compact and gap free and remove excess glue. Yes, it can look a bit messy, but a damp rag and it's all cleaned up and no risk of chemicals reacting with the enamel insulation that may strip it and cause shorts. Coils also settle and can generate a bit of heat and expansion in this application (unlike pickups) and as such, glues like CA will be sticking to the enamel insulation and may 'crack' with expansion risking future shorts and a failure of the driver. Wax (which can't be used while winding and so you can not be sure of penetration...and so not advised for the reasons given above) will provide a medium that allows for this and will fill gaps (if it and the coil itself can remain hot enough for a sufficient amount of time...or vacuum soaked) without ever risking the insulation and provide for the inevitable expansion and settling that will occur. Epoxy does not, and you have to have methods that ensure that there is absolutely no gaps at all (like my more modern designs...that btw are 'theoretically impossible' with that calculator). PVA is a medium that has a long work time and allows the coil to settle while setting, and will cope with any expansion and heating effects that will be thrown at it because it has some elasticity...perfect for this application.

And while there are all these coherent reasons for suggesting it...you "did" it and me with no alternatives or apparent thought into what would be advisable. You then throw out every logical fallacy as support for these non-alternatives...the old "plea to authority", there are more experienced people here than you and me. Well, for sure...but I ahve wound well over a hundred coils for this exact application and tested a lot of materials...personally. There would be few here if any that can say that. Moreover, it is a logical fallacy and so facetious, because you have only just joined this forum and have nothing to verify that YOU are an authority on any thing yet and so can't co-opt that status, and that although there are many professionals, not many have in fact wound coils for this application if they wind coils on a regular basis at all. With sustainer and pickup making coils what I am known to have been doing for many years, and a forum member here for many years (and yes, quite a few simple and effective circuits designed and constructed) and the originator of these sound and safe techniques that work.

You can also achieve very professional results first time around...as Bankia shows in his concise tutorial on my design, one of many about and linked to...

http://diy-fever.com/misc/diy-sustainer/



Does that look "unprofessional" or "insufficient" or amusingly "quaint" for the application?



Looks pretty darn good to me, and exactly using the methods described by me!

As for using an iron to strip wires I have explained this before...if you strip any insulated wire with an iron, you will burn of the insulation and so leave residue. Often this residue will be carbon and conductive...but also resistant (often highly so) risking frequent false or misleading readings. If you were to try and solder to such stripped wire, you are likely to create poor or dry or at least suspect solder joins on such fine wire. This is a known fact, and stands to reasons...and is eactly the experience of the OP here even...so therefore always bad advice. With wire such as the 0.2mm specified, I use the back of a knife as pointed out, with very fine wire such as pickup wire, I use very light wet and dry paper as do most people I suggest and widely known to be the case in that community. Any other insulation, I use industrial standard and accurate wire strippers made for the purpose, but not applicable to this kind of wire. I don't know what you mean or imply by "street", but it is of course 'standard procedure' and widely described in most texts concerning pickup winding...maybe you are not aware of such things when you describe this method as "quaint". However, as usual, you level such things against me instead of offering any alternative or advise of your won...short of sticking a hot iron into wet glue while you are trying to hold the whole thing together with glue on your hands and creating exactly the problem described from the OP of this thread...before you suggested using it!

At least, my advise is based on experience, proven, safe and likely to produce results. You have shown nothing and offered nothing but poor advice and have shown nothing to allow you to co-opt authority for such things from the minority of 'professionals' in this community who may perhaps have some experience in such coils and this application. The only one who I can categorically point to from this community, and shown the work of...used exactly my suggested method, quaint as you find it...and it worked perfectly and looked good too. What does that tell you Gurner...

However, you may still like to answer that question...IF you are working on alternatives, just post the things in an appropriate thread of your own...be up front about it, and let people decide for themselves (without the put downs) if they would like to follow your example. I honestly would love and had expected in all these years for someone perhaps to come up with something...but for all the profile the "project" has had, nothing of the sort has yet to appear. And those that "claim" to know better, strategically knock know proven and working methods and designs, don't show their work...and never, start their own threads illustrating their own work, and certainly not without constanct jibes personally directed towards me. Many members here will know this to be true, and you are just repeating that trend, comeing as you do to here from PG. One really has to ask, "why?" You see others here, and some contributing to this thread, do exactly that..."lets make a tap tempo echo" thread...or "let's make a DIY looper pedal"...and in the end, often, a whole verified project will come of it, join the legions of other such designs, and enrich the community and the whole DIY thing. This is of course how most of these things start, certainly what I did...I just got a lot of hangers on as well as contributors over many years...and there was an absence of anyone else doing the same thing outside of that project and being successful in all that time. No one is more surprised than me, normally once it is shown that it can be done, lot's of alternatives and solutions emerge. I honestly wish you can do it. However, as I say...they almost always emerge from honest, open and often a collaborative effort, in threads under their own moniker and always show their work and results. I've not seen anyone here suggest that they are an 'expert' because a few weeks ago they made up a name and joined this community...but apparently you feel that need to be so shallow that you rely on the 'reputation' of others and apply it to yourself...purely to work your agenda to mock me and my work and suggestions. Any intelligent person can see that this is just stupid and should undermine your credibility till proven otherwise. You clearly have no concept of practical insulation and coil potting nor wire stripping procedures appropriate, offer no alternatives (do you really think these things should be hi-tech...carbon nano tubes perhaps?) nor a knowledge of the common practice in the pickup making community and the literature...while suggesting a technique known to risk false readings and bad joins if used...and repeatedly explained...and especially if used in the situation and materials being used here. And, with the clearly inexperienced people trying to do it.

[psw]

psw how much room for error did you find between wire gauges? everywhere local to me seems to stock either 0.19mm or 0.21 as the closest to 0.2.

I tested wires from 0.15 to 0.25 and larger in comparison.

There is a fair margin in error with this project...I would veer towards the 0.21 as the 0.01 is likely to take the insulation into account...so 0.2mm + insulation = 0.21

Again, check the available tutorials...the driver winding tutorial consists of only three posts, half a page, showing exactly what to do in pictures...there was never any reason to read 400+ pages of discussion about such things. This was pointed out here and to you personally on May 14.

Bankia's tutorial is excellent and exactly the same thing, the link is above on that. As shown, have the correct materials at hand before you start and the whole process should take about 10 minutes...plus drying over night. A small reel of wire can make a few winders, so if the first one is not up to the quality as you might like (lets face if before you do it, you have no experience and is not uncommon) but for the few dollars you spend on the wire, you will get a few goes...or a few whole drivers if you take care.

Ignore people without proven experience or alternatives that have been shown to be effective. PVA was chosen for very good and sound reasons and is safe and reversible. It is no more "quaint" that Wax that has shown to have problems in this application and far safer. It is necessary to use the glue while winding, but you only need a little, the winding will push the glue through it, you just simply wipe off the excess with a damp sponge or rag and clean up when it is all done and wrapped up and preferably clamped on the sides of the coil as necessary while it sets.

Good luck...but I'd be going for the 0.21 and expect good results...wind to 8 ohms or slightly less as described...ensure your meter is accurate or calibrated if necessary and be sure to get a good bright bare wire to read off...it can help to solder a wire to the start point of the coil before you start winding, as this makes for a sure contact point at that end.

[psw]

In relation to my "credentials" that are continually being "mocked"...I have been working on guitars, pickups and even sustainers and various circuits (owning over 50 stompboxes for instance) for decades. I do quite a bit of guitar wiring for instance.

Last week I wired this LP wiith the "twenty-dual" scheme, a more advanced version of the infamous Jimmy Page wiring. I consulted with the designer and others and made sure I had a verified diagram. I made cardboard template (yep, I just pushed hole in it with sharp scissors) and marked the controls for their function with a black pen. I know, seems kindergartenish and pedantic...then I used a FILE to score each opt as appropriate for grounding wires and pre tinned them...and all the contact points on the pots.



The results you can see, with no more heat or time than you would use for the tinned wires to be joined to them, a perfect neat shiny soldering connection that can be melted quickly and easily with every join required.

For exactly the same reasons as the wire, and I know the Gurners of the world will think this a bit "quaint" or even primitive...but have a good look at the number of bad joins, mess and even destroyed or damaged pots using the excessive heat method to simply burn through the machining oils and gunk and oxidization that occurs on these parts, or any exposed metal, even wires in short order.

Further, I continued to methodically go through all the connections systematically and checking as I go, every solder join perfect, every wire trimmed and tinned. But even with such methods and care...still has to be tested, there are so many potential pitfalls...



So...eventually I get the "harness" soldered up on the cardboard, attach jumpers from all external wiring connections..and wire it up and plug it in a test that they all work completely as expected. Once tested and all happy, then the cardboard is removed, the pots go in the guitar and the wiring made neat and good and fully insulated with shrink warp tubing or PVC tape as appropriate.

Cold it be done with the old, apply as much heat as you can to join to the pots, could it work with a few cold joins in it, could it work without testing it first (in this case, yes, but how would I know), could it be achieved without the "quaint" cardboard cutout and the penned in pot labels to remind me what I was working on and the function...well, possibly, many would not go to this extent...I didn't when I started doing this.

However, I guarantee better results, perfect joins and positively working wiring before anything goes into a guitar...and this is especially true with things like the sustainer which are quite a bit more tricky to get right.

Therefore, I still always test my sustainers before they go into a guitar and the wiring and especially if I have not done things before, without making too many plans or commitments to things like pulling a guitar apart or drilling into it, before I know it works. In fact, I have a special guitar that is especially dedicated with a huge route under the strings and a template for an infinite amount of real world control layouts...so that I can do this all with new designs and where I do not have the actual guitar handy to work on, fitting easily a collection of different pickups and configurations on the fly, testing circuit variations and such in the real world.

There are a number of people like Gurner that would like you to consider my work and methods and advice to be "quaint" but they are well known and considered professional, guaranteed to get the appropriated results, will work before they go anywhere near modding a guitar...and more over...I can absolutely confirm that anything like this will be faster than the old "Kludge" things together and inappropriate use of tools and methods that many seem to advocate and we have all seen many examples of on every forum, including this one...sometimes even in name brand guitars!

So...

Things like PVA as a practical liquid version of PVC, the industry standard insulating material in electronics is not "quaint", it just makes sense.

Not burning insulation through is always ill advised, it can lead to false readings, it did in this thread, it is always bad practice...virtually ensuring suspect joins, especially on fine single strand wires with hardly any surface area to join to.

Making the suggestion that a person doing this for decades and learning from a lot of people, including many from this forum over the years, and a lot of practical experience on these exact procedures and working on guitars...and troubleshooting other peoples mistakes I might add...has not the experience and record to speak with some authority or that my work is in any way "quaint" or"finger painting" or "colouring in" as has been suggested, is just rediculous...Gurner has clearly seen enough of my work to know my credentials. We have seen none of his and he refuses to do so or explain from where he gets this mysterious "expertise" and finds it necessary to bloat out this thread with constant bad advice...and co-opt the apparent "expertise" generalized across a forum he just joined, to suggest that by doing so, he too shares in this "authority" and can speak to these matters...clearly a nonsense and a bankrupt intellectually.

I do have more advanced circuits...I have a years worth of "secret" designs and innovations in hex drivers for instance that is well known and documented as well. But, we are not talking about such things here, we are talking about a 6 year old very simple design that has proven to work, much like the eBow...itself glue potted I should add...and many of my ideas are not only my prerogative not to share, are not adaptable to DIY generally and certainly not cost effective in that form and some even covered by confidentially agreements...although verified as working under sustained accusations that they are "hoaxes" over the years.

So...just to verify, I do have a fair bit of experience and do not deserve the kind of ill informed constant jibes about my approach being childlike or not having quite a bit of precedence in all the literature and the work of professionals in the industry, from which I learned and practice. If people just work methodically and with care to replicate a known design with the specifications required, there is no reason not to get positive results much like I have presented in audio and with these exact same specs and basic circuits.

That there are some very experienced people in this forum, I still see little evidence of it as being of the majority, and none that can be attached to the new member Gurner who has decided to continue to badger me instead of verifying his own credentials or to do the more expected thing of even coming out and stating that he is working on a sustainer, his criteria for his work, and his progress and outcome working towards verification and the open disclosure that he seeks from me on my more evolved designs...in his own thread and under his own name.

It is a "pissing contest" as far as he is concerned...but I welcome it if he can do better...I just don't understand why he does not do so openly and needs to waste his time following me across forums to do so. I will however, continue to correct bad advice and mis-information and my "credentials" and point out the bankrupt nature of his arguments. That there are experienced people here does not equate to hi9m being one of them, or the people actually attempting this project and seeking help. I will continue to correct bad advice, especially advice that has the risk of bad readings and joins or indeed the safety of the people attempting to build something which is pretty simple, if a little unusual.

I will continue to support this design as well as something that can be successfully done and to point out the obvious, if it does not conform reasonably to the specifications and methods suggested to achieve the results required it is not the fault of the design, and certainly not the designer, but a failure of people to take sound advice and stick to it...even when repeatedly shown to be in three short picture laden posts in a tutorial with sound bites of the results.

I can only presume that Gurner, like others much like him in recent times, has nothing at this point in time and little if any knowledge of this particular design, dual coil designs or much in the way of coil winding experience or research. I ahve to presume that, because curiously, he does not even say if he has made a sustainer of any type or have anything he is prepared to show for it. When provided with the information for his phase correction, the maths is too hard and he goes to trial and error...why not, that's how I do it, a little "kindergarten" I know...time consuming, but results did come of the work in the end. If one were to go back over the years of my work, and telefunkton has given links to almost every post I have made here on the subject (missed few that might give a couple more clues btw) you will see it has always been under my own name and either my own threads or like this one, in relation to my own designs or experience.

Now...about that question Gurner...

[deadastronaut]

yep it works perfectly..on all strings up to 24 fret...waheeyyyy..

lol....not really.i;m just building the amp..ha ha...and yes i will test amp first...lol...

update soon...

rob.