Building the tap tempo tremolo

[Johnny B]

Hi, I am living just outside Johannesburg, South Africa and have just come across this project via a link on the BYOC website. Do we have any other S. African's on this thread?
Although getting some of the rarer components down here can be difficult, I think I will probably go ahead and build the tap tempo tremolo. Most of my pedals are in 125B enclosures and I would like to fit this one in the same enclosure. I have three questions
1. The size of the circuit board?
2. The max current draw at 9V supply?
3. Has anyone managed to fit the TTT with all the pots, both footswitches, input and output jacks, dc power jack, and 9V battery in to a 125B?
Thanks in anticipation of your answers.

[moose23]

Have built my TTT and got rid of the little bit of ticking pretty easily but I also have a high frequency oscillation which is in time with the LFO so presumably the LFO is producing these oscillations so I tried the tips in this thread for sorting the ticking such increasing the 330pF to 1n and wiring the bypass to include the rate LED which helped a lot but I'm still left with a a low volume of super frequency oscillations, best way to describe it is a kin to the tinnitus ringing sound and it's equally as annoying too. The only difference in my circuit is that I used 10K trimpots and 220n on the input of the regulator which shouldn't have any affect here.

Anyone have any ideas or encountered this problem before?

[Ultrakd]

get a switching jack, wire the 3 wires of the pot you want to control from the wire to the switched side (usually 1-2-3 goes to Sleeve-ring-tip respectively), and the corresponding 3 wires from the other side of the switching jack back to each correct pad hole on the PCB. This way when nothing is plugged in, the switching jack stays closed and the pot is engaged. When you plug in the expression pedal the switch contact is broken, so the pot is out of the circuit and the pot in your expression pedal replaces it.

So wire the pot to the switch (1-2-3 to Sleeve-ring-tip) then the switch to the correct holes on the PCB?

[Taylor]

Hi, I am living just outside Johannesburg, South Africa and have just come across this project via a link on the BYOC website. Do we have any other S. African's on this thread?
Although getting some of the rarer components down here can be difficult, I think I will probably go ahead and build the tap tempo tremolo. Most of my pedals are in 125B enclosures and I would like to fit this one in the same enclosure. I have three questions
1. The size of the circuit board?
2. The max current draw at 9V supply?
3. Has anyone managed to fit the TTT with all the pots, both footswitches, input and output jacks, dc power jack, and 9V battery in to a 125B?
Thanks in anticipation of your answers.

The board is about 2 inches by 3 inches. It will fit in a 125b, but it's not going to be easy to get everything in.

Have built my TTT and got rid of the little bit of ticking pretty easily but I also have a high frequency oscillation which is in time with the LFO so presumably the LFO is producing these oscillations so I tried the tips in this thread for sorting the ticking such increasing the 330pF to 1n and wiring the bypass to include the rate LED which helped a lot but I'm still left with a a low volume of super frequency oscillations, best way to describe it is a kin to the tinnitus ringing sound and it's equally as annoying too. The only difference in my circuit is that I used 10K trimpots and 220n on the input of the regulator which shouldn't have any affect here.

Anyone have any ideas or encountered this problem before?

I haven't heard of that issue. Are you using a nonstandard crystal? What type of power supply are you using?

[Barcode80]

get a switching jack, wire the 3 wires of the pot you want to control from the wire to the switched side (usually 1-2-3 goes to Sleeve-ring-tip respectively), and the corresponding 3 wires from the other side of the switching jack back to each correct pad hole on the PCB. This way when nothing is plugged in, the switching jack stays closed and the pot is engaged. When you plug in the expression pedal the switch contact is broken, so the pot is out of the circuit and the pot in your expression pedal replaces it.

So wire the pot to the switch (1-2-3 to Sleeve-ring-tip) then the switch to the correct holes on the PCB?

yes.

[Ultrakd]

Is the expression pedal jacks a good mod to have? Whats your opinions?

[moose23]

Hi, I am living just outside Johannesburg, South Africa and have just come across this project via a link on the BYOC website. Do we have any other S. African's on this thread?
Although getting some of the rarer components down here can be difficult, I think I will probably go ahead and build the tap tempo tremolo. Most of my pedals are in 125B enclosures and I would like to fit this one in the same enclosure. I have three questions
1. The size of the circuit board?
2. The max current draw at 9V supply?
3. Has anyone managed to fit the TTT with all the pots, both footswitches, input and output jacks, dc power jack, and 9V battery in to a 125B?
Thanks in anticipation of your answers.

The board is about 2 inches by 3 inches. It will fit in a 125b, but it's not going to be easy to get everything in.

Have built my TTT and got rid of the little bit of ticking pretty easily but I also have a high frequency oscillation which is in time with the LFO so presumably the LFO is producing these oscillations so I tried the tips in this thread for sorting the ticking such increasing the 330pF to 1n and wiring the bypass to include the rate LED which helped a lot but I'm still left with a a low volume of super frequency oscillations, best way to describe it is a kin to the tinnitus ringing sound and it's equally as annoying too. The only difference in my circuit is that I used 10K trimpots and 220n on the input of the regulator which shouldn't have any affect here.

Anyone have any ideas or encountered this problem before?

I haven't heard of that issue. Are you using a nonstandard crystal? What type of power supply are you using?

I'm using this Quartz Crystal QM002 http://www.banzaimusic.com/Quartz-Crystal-QM002.html

and a regular Boss PSA power supply.

Also opto is Silonex NSL32 and the regulator is a 78L05.

[Ultrakd]

Im sure this is a stupid question but with the photocoupler does the long leads go into the holes where the + is or do the short leads?

[.Mike]

I'm using this Quartz Crystal QM002 http://www.banzaimusic.com/Quartz-Crystal-QM002.html

That's a 2MHz crystal you have there. You need a 20MHz crystal.

Im sure this is a stupid question but with the photocoupler does the long leads go into the holes where the + is or do the short leads?

http://www.silonex.com/datasheets/specs/images/pdf/103708.pdf

The dot indicates the cathode of the LED side of the optocoupler.

Mike

[moose23]

I'm using this Quartz Crystal QM002 http://www.banzaimusic.com/Quartz-Crystal-QM002.html

That's a 2MHz crystal you have there. You need a 20MHz crystal.

Im sure this is a stupid question but with the photocoupler does the long leads go into the holes where the + is or do the short leads?

http://www.silonex.com/datasheets/specs/images/pdf/103708.pdf

The dot indicates the cathode of the LED side of the optocoupler.

Mike

Ah totally messed up on that myself so. Thanks for the quick help. I'll order the right one now, hopefully it'll work perfectly.

[Ultrakd]

Im sure this is a stupid question but with the photocoupler does the long leads go into the holes where the + is or do the short leads?

http://www.silonex.com/datasheets/specs/images/pdf/103708.pdf

The dot indicates the cathode of the LED side of the optocoupler.

Mike

Ok so that would mean that the long lead on the side with the dot is the anode of the LED and goes into the + correct? Sorry for the noob question

[Taylor]

Im sure this is a stupid question but with the photocoupler does the long leads go into the holes where the + is or do the short leads?

http://www.silonex.com/datasheets/specs/images/pdf/103708.pdf

The dot indicates the cathode of the LED side of the optocoupler.

Mike

Ok so that would mean that the long lead on the side with the dot is the anode of the LED and goes into the + correct? Sorry for the noob question

Check the very first post in this thread - it's explained there.

[dfine22]

Finished up the TTT.  Wow great and extremly versitile pedal.  I was able to trim out the tic fras well which was only marginal anyway. Good stuff. 



[

[Tacoboy]

Nice work 
Mine is also finished this weekend. The only problem I encounter is the use of the Tap Tempo stompbutton.
It need debouncing I guess... When pushing the button, it reacts like i pressed it 5 times...
Anyone an idea how to debounce this button? Or must the code be rewritten?

[Taylor]

At first I had that problem, but pretty quickly I got the hang of how it needs to be tapped - it's just a feel thing really. There is debouncing in the code but it wouldn't be too hard to add more if you needed it.

[Tacoboy]

Owkidow! Indeed, it's pretty hard to get the feeling for tapping this button... I use the Carling 1PST momentary footswitch, a very good switch, so it should be ok I guess.
Let's just play some hours, days, ... to get the feeling in my left toe to operate this button 

[Ultrakd]

Ok having some problems :/.....1st when the pedal is in bypass its fine. But when I turn it on I dont get any input sound...just this woooping sound . What did I do wrong? 2nd can I put 2 leds on the bored where they always stay on blinking to the tempo?

[Taylor]

The problem will be in your audio path, so the tl072 and the parts surrounding it. Trace through the circuit from input to output with an audio probe (read "what to do when it doesn't work" sticky thread at the top of this forum) and find where the audio stops.

Do you have your optocoupler oriented correctly? See the first post in this thread on page 1 for details.

Did you tweak the trimpots around?

[Ultrakd]

The problem will be in your audio path, so the tl072 and the parts surrounding it. Trace through the circuit from input to output with an audio probe (read "what to do when it doesn't work" sticky thread at the top of this forum) and find where the audio stops.

Do you have your optocoupler oriented correctly? See the first post in this thread on page 1 for details.

Did you tweak the trimpots around?

Ok I took the switch out of the equation and just wired it so the effect is on and it works but one of the main problems Im having is with the volume knob. I have the A25k pot on there but it doesnt change sound until halfway. Before that there is no sound, like its turned off. And when it is all the way up it isnt that loud. I had my amp completely turned all the way up and it was still low volume. What could be causing this? Yes I tweaked the trimpots and Im 99% sure the optocoupler is oriented correctly.

[Taylor]

Sounds like there's probably an open circuit somewhere in the audio path (bad solder joint?) and the sound is only making it through because of bleed. Try reflowing your solder joints.