Building the tap tempo tremolo

lespos · January 26, 2012, 02:21:42 AM

Quote from: Gaetano Capuano on January 20, 2012, 11:42:28 PM
CRAP where can I purchase an NSL-32

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=356 Small Bear Electronics is your best fiend

There is my build

For waveform and multiplier i using rotary switches instead of pots. That makes these functions a bit more understandabe. If someone interested - i found perfect rotary switches for that

http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SRBV160803/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNbjZ2WlReYusHPuglWmCRYaNeyNyivdg%3d 6 position for multiplier

http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/SRBV181004/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvNbjZ2WlReYusHPuglWmCRbZTSllc6Pt4%3d 8 position for waveform

All you need to do is build additional PCB
There is PCB's (open with Sprint Layot)

with trough hole resistors
NOT VERIFIED because i build second one version with SMD (8060 size) resistors

with SMD (8060)resistors

VERIFIED

all PCB's is ready to trasfer

Valoosj · January 26, 2012, 05:15:16 PM

Could you post an image file of that layout? Or a schematic version of it? I don't have the program to open this layout.

Gaetano Capuano · January 26, 2012, 06:19:17 PM

So it seems a few have said get a few optocouplers cause some are noisier than others, yet all the builds they look like they are not socketed. Would you recomend socketing them?
Also seems it may be awkward using regular pots for the wave form and subdivision pots, any thoughts on this?

Also a guy who built one recommended surface mount pots to help prevent noise issues

I am gonna be building this one over the next few days or so, pics coming soon.

lespos · January 27, 2012, 02:16:49 AM

Quote from: Valoosj on January 26, 2012, 05:15:16 PM
Could you post an image file of that layout? Or a schematic version of it? I don't have the program to open this layout.

There is no reason post image files, because when you will print it, you can't be sure that it will be in correct size
Just download and install Sprint Layout viewer. It's for free!
http://www.abacom-online.de/uk/html/sprint-layout.html
Scroll down to the end. There is a viewer download link

With this viewer you can open .lay files and print it in correct size.

lespos · January 27, 2012, 02:48:34 AM

Quote from: Gaetano Capuano on January 26, 2012, 06:19:17 PM
So it seems a few have said get a few optocouplers cause some are noisier than others, yet all the builds they look like they are not socketed. Would you recomend socketing them?
Also seems it may be awkward using regular pots for the wave form and subdivision pots, any thoughts on this?

Also a guy who built one recommended surface mount pots to help prevent noise issues

I am gonna be building this one over the next few days or so, pics coming soon.

Of course you can use sockets for optocouplers, but IMO - that's a waste of money. They have only 4 pins, so you can easy change it if needed

I was try both of recommended optocouplers - VTL5C3 and NSL-32. Stayed with NSL-32.

Yes, i think rotary switches is better than pots. If you using pots, you can't be really sure where is the point when waveform or multiplier stages changes. With rotary switches this is more comfortably.

Gaetano Capuano · January 28, 2012, 07:01:08 PM

thanks dude

Lucas M · January 30, 2012, 10:27:31 AM

Hi everyone,
I built the tap trem for a friend and it worked perfect. I brought it over to his place to try it, i forgot to bring my 9v adaptor i was using so he hooked an adaptor to it. I had no idea, but he hooked up an 18v adaptor and now the unit ticks like crazy, the waveform selections are all off and when its bypasses it still clicks and make weird feedback noises. Do any of you gents out there know what is bad in the unit now? i think it could be the trem ic, but I'm not sure. I'm going to get new chips anyway, but i wanted to hear others opinions in case there is something else wrong that i didn't know about.

Thanks a bunch,
Lucas

Gaetano Capuano · January 30, 2012, 10:40:03 AM

bummer

Valoosj · January 30, 2012, 01:21:49 PM

Try the 7805 and see if you get 5V out of it. I had a similar issue due to a wrong pinout of the thing. Mistook it for a 78L05.

Gaetano Capuano · January 30, 2012, 03:17:23 PM

Wow, I put the one diode in backwards, plugged it in, fired it up, and the resistor next to it became a burning ember

Crp, is my whole project shot?

?

.Mike · January 30, 2012, 03:31:49 PM

Whoa now. Hold up. The easiest way to ensure your project is shot it to start replacing random components without knowing why.

Your resistor burning is a symptom of something pulling too much current. What's pulling too much current? Your diode. When you turned it around, you setup a situation where your circuit is a dead short across a 10-ohm resistor.

Replace the diode and the resistor.

Remove the TAPLFO IC.

Power the effect.

Measure and share the following voltages: battery, all pins of your voltage regulator, all pins on your TAPLFO socket.

That is where I would start.

Mike

Gaetano Capuano · January 30, 2012, 03:44:52 PM

Oh I was jsut about to give up

Maybe I should re group and replace these pieces?

Gaetano Capuano · January 31, 2012, 02:58:24 PM

Ok, I replaced the resistor and the diode, put a new diode in the correct way. Plugged it in and it seems to be working. Its not mounted in an enclosure, but I alligator cliped the hot tothe hot of a dc adpter, and the ground to the ground, plugged it in, switched it on, and the LED flashes with tempo, when engaged I need to be touching the ground on the jack to get the signal to pass through, I assume because its not in an enclosure. The flashes change with the waveforms, the effected signal is lower than bypass signal, I did not have time to bias and all that, so I hope I am on the right track.

Taylor · January 31, 2012, 04:08:06 PM

I recommend connecting all ground with wires rather than expecting the enclosure to do the grounding for you. JAcks can become loose, etc.

Gaetano Capuano · January 31, 2012, 09:57:51 PM

Quote from: Taylor on January 31, 2012, 04:08:06 PM
I recommend connecting all ground with wires rather than expecting the enclosure to do the grounding for you. JAcks can become loose, etc.

Yeah I do.

I was being hopeful, but its not that. When engaged there is no signal, when I mess around with the 3PDT and squeeze the lugs I can get a signal.......... The LED works, blinks to tempo and wave form.

Thoughts? All my wiring looks good.................

Taylor · January 31, 2012, 10:12:28 PM

Squeeze the lugs of what? If it's the 3pdt then it might be a bad switch.

Make sure when getting it setup to put the wave distort knob in the center - at some extremes it will barely cut on. At that point you may just need to tweak the trimpots. if that doesn't get anything going then the usual debug technique with an audio probe may be in order. The audio section is pretty small, so if you LED is flashing you're pretty close.

Gaetano Capuano · January 31, 2012, 11:15:49 PM

yeah the lugs of the 3pdt, which makes me think it might be something in the wiring.

Gaetano Capuano · February 01, 2012, 03:05:43 PM

OK guys, I got my audio probe out. Actually just built one. I cant tell where the audio path of this circuit is though. I do have nice, pulsing coming out of the led side of my optocoupler though

Help

lespos · February 02, 2012, 03:04:50 AM

Wiring should be done like that. Check signal in these testpoints, and then tell us where you lost it.

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0BxW0oyyuIeI7NWE1NWYzMTktY2I0Ni00MjViLTljNTItOGYwYTI1Yjg0YzY4&hl=en_US

Beo · February 03, 2012, 02:23:49 PM

I just realized I only have 4 10KB pots, but my box is drilled to implement all five (including wave dist, no ext gain pot). I have lots of other linear pots (5k, 20K, etc) and I could do the parallel resistor thing, but that will make my pot act as a Log pot.

Can a 20KB or 50KB pot be subbed in anywhere? Otherwise, will a 10KB (makeshift) be usable for any of the controls?

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Building the tap tempo tremolo