Building the tap tempo tremolo

Started by Taylor, April 19, 2010, 05:39:15 PM

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aryk

Bump* I am using kingbright ultra bright white 5MM LED's and they are barely noticeable on the light plate. Any chance to change the input voltage on it? I tried hooking it up to its own power but lost signal from the circuit. Ideas?

Jonowinn

I figured out how to switch the expression input between two of the pots (Depth, and Rate,) using a 6PDT Slide switch: Mouser part# 612-EG6201.

Here's the diagram for connecting it. http://imgur.com/MESslCq

Valoosj

Does anyone have the voltages at which the multiplier switches? I built one with a 1P6T switch and my 1/16th notes don't work. The voltage I read at the multiplier's wiper was 4,72V. As it said in the pdf by ElectricDruid, anything over 3,75V goes to the default setting of x1. 

I used his trick with two 5K1 and five 10K resistors in conjunction with the 1P6T, but I guess I need to tweak these values as it does not work perfectly. I would really appreciate it if someone has the (approximate) voltages, so I can test resistor values to get me there. Hopefully changing the 3K6 will be sufficient instead of changing the 5K1/10K combo.
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

Valoosj

Ok nevermind, I had another look at the schematic and enlarging the 3K6 should do the trick.
Quote from: frequencycentral
You squeezed it into a 1590A - you insane fool!  :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Scruffie
Well this... this is just silly... this can't fit in a 1590B... can it? And you're not even using SMD you mad man!

cedarwood

What is happening here? I jumpered the 1n4001 like Taylor suggested since the posts won't fit. I checked the polarity but when I plugged it in the 10 ohm resistor next to the 1n4001 started glowing and smoking. I quickly unplugged it and desoldered the effected resistors. HELP. This build has been kicking my butt for some reason. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=691606790855393&set=pcb.691606900855382&type=1&theater https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=691606837522055&set=pcb.691606900855382&type=1&theater

Taylor

I don't have access to the MusicPCB email at home, so I can't check - did I really tell you to replace the diode with a jumper? If so, I apologize; I must have been half-asleep because that is very dumb advice, because it'll do exactly what you saw. If I did tell you that, email me so I can fix this for you.

You don't need the diode for the pedal to work. It's for reverse polarity protection so if you plug in th wrong power supply you won't burn anything up. For now, if you can't fit it, and you can't surface mount it to the pads, then leave it off the board.

Replace the resistors and fire it up and see if it works.

aryk

Taylor - Wondering if you might help me with getting the flashing LED brighter? I have tried different trimmers, tried maxing out the trimmer to see how bright the LED can get and still not getting a very bright LED. Only reason I need it so bright is so that I can see it in the Light Plate being used. I did sub a 2n3906 for the 2n3904 as I don't have one on hand. The pedal works perfectly just wondering if there's a way to get the LED brighter. Also I took the LED off the 3pdt and put it on the board directly.

cedarwood

Taylor, I re-read the email. I misread your instructions to surfacemount the diode and thought you meant to leave the diode off and surfacemount the two pads... not leave it off all together OR surfacemount the diode. My confusion. I will replace the resistors and try it again without the diode.

cedarwood

FIXED! I guess I just need to read me emails without thinking I know what needs connection  :icon_redface: Thanks Taylor. Ticking has been dialed out. Now to rewire the depth knob so clockwise is deeper.

Taylor

Quote from: aryk on August 04, 2013, 01:46:37 PM
Taylor - Wondering if you might help me with getting the flashing LED brighter? I have tried different trimmers, tried maxing out the trimmer to see how bright the LED can get and still not getting a very bright LED. Only reason I need it so bright is so that I can see it in the Light Plate being used. I did sub a 2n3906 for the 2n3904 as I don't have one on hand. The pedal works perfectly just wondering if there's a way to get the LED brighter. Also I took the LED off the 3pdt and put it on the board directly.

You subbed a PNP transistor for an NPN. I don't really understand how it's working, but that would be my first thing to change to try to get the LED blinking brighter if it's dim.

aryk

I wondered that myself. Apparently the 2N3906 is able to perform in place of a 2n3904 (according to the data sheet). That odd anomaly aside, I swapped it out for the 2N3904 and nothing changed with the LED.

Taylor

Hmm, interesting.

The LED brightness is controlled by the trimpot next to the TL072. If you're using a bright LED and you've got that trimpot dimed then you must have some problem with your trimpot soldering I guess. Have you thought about just using a much brighter LED (they make retina burning ones for crazy people).

9aul

Hi, I've just finished building the taptempo but alas when I plug it in no signal from my guitar gets through  :icon_sad:. Instead it generates popping noises and weird sounds, you can control the tempo waveform depth etc. Of these sounds using the corresponding pot and the LED flashes along with the rhythm. So I'm thinking something is working here. The bypass also works and allows clean signal from my guitar through. The trim pots are all set to halfway and if these are adjusted it changes the effect. Interesting sounds but sadly not the ones I was after! Could someone please help!! I've made a few pedals before, but for all intensive purposes treat me as if i'm stupid. It's probably something blindingly obvious.
Here are the voltages I've measured at the main components

TAPLFO
1 = 5.04              14 = 0.03
2 = 0.87               13 = 4.32
3 = 2.30              12 =3.09
4 = 4.99              11 = 0.48
5 = varies from 1.8 to 3.3    10= 5.03
6 = 0.02              9 = 3.81
7 = varies from 1.4 to 3.6     8= 4.99

TL072
1 = 4.45      8 = 8.90
2 = 4.45      7 = 4.44
3 = 4.22      6 = 4.44
4 = 0      8 = 4.22

2N3904
Leg nearest TAPLFO = varies from 1 to 2.5
Middle leg = from 0.3 to 0.5
Nearest TL072 = 0

Voltage reg
Top leg (nearest wave distort, oh I have the wave distort control in place BTW) = 5.03
Middle = 0
Bottom (nearest 330nf) = 8.8

Opto
+ve = 2.5 to 3.5
-ve = 1.8 to 3.2
Both other legs = 4.41


And on the diode voltage varies on top(banded)  leg  (anywhere between 8 and 0) and no voltage on the bottom leg. Also for the electrolytic caps +ve leg reads voltage (4.4 for the 10uf and 8.8 for the 100uf and –ve leg for both =0.

Thanks

smacca

whats happened to musicpcb.com?
the page doesnt load and a virus warning pops up

therealfindo

Quote from: bcalla on December 26, 2012, 04:54:47 PM
Here's a picture.  It has a light metalflake which makes the picture look splotchy.  It's actually pretty subtle.




Hey.. I'm about to builds a tap tremolo using this chip (http://www.uk-electronic.de/Download/Manual%20Tap%20Tremolo.pdf) and I want to print up a label for the box. My question is whether the multiplyer and waveform positions are always the same, such as where you've indicated them on your knobs here?

thanks

Taylor

Quote from: 9aul on August 07, 2013, 05:35:13 AM
Hi, I've just finished building the taptempo but alas when I plug it in no signal from my guitar gets through  :icon_sad:. Instead it generates popping noises and weird sounds, you can control the tempo waveform depth etc. Of these sounds using the corresponding pot and the LED flashes along with the rhythm. So I'm thinking something is working here. The bypass also works and allows clean signal from my guitar through. The trim pots are all set to halfway and if these are adjusted it changes the effect. Interesting sounds but sadly not the ones I was after! Could someone please help!! I've made a few pedals before, but for all intensive purposes treat me as if i'm stupid. It's probably something blindingly obvious.
Here are the voltages I've measured at the main components

TAPLFO
1 = 5.04              14 = 0.03
2 = 0.87               13 = 4.32
3 = 2.30              12 =3.09
4 = 4.99              11 = 0.48
5 = varies from 1.8 to 3.3    10= 5.03
6 = 0.02              9 = 3.81
7 = varies from 1.4 to 3.6     8= 4.99

TL072
1 = 4.45      8 = 8.90
2 = 4.45      7 = 4.44
3 = 4.22      6 = 4.44
4 = 0      8 = 4.22

2N3904
Leg nearest TAPLFO = varies from 1 to 2.5
Middle leg = from 0.3 to 0.5
Nearest TL072 = 0

Voltage reg
Top leg (nearest wave distort, oh I have the wave distort control in place BTW) = 5.03
Middle = 0
Bottom (nearest 330nf) = 8.8

Opto
+ve = 2.5 to 3.5
-ve = 1.8 to 3.2
Both other legs = 4.41


And on the diode voltage varies on top(banded)  leg  (anywhere between 8 and 0) and no voltage on the bottom leg. Also for the electrolytic caps +ve leg reads voltage (4.4 for the 10uf and 8.8 for the 100uf and –ve leg for both =0.

Thanks

Build an audio probe and probe through the opamp half of the circuit. Your digital side is working, so you just need to find the point where your audio stops. Doublecheck the datasheet for your opto to be sure you have it in the right way.

Quote from: smacca on August 07, 2013, 09:10:06 AM
whats happened to musicpcb.com?
the page doesnt load and a virus warning pops up

Well, it's loading for me, however recently the site keeps getting hacked so some browsers might flag it as malware and block it. I don't know what to do about this other than get a new site... If any web gurus want to PM me with their thoughts I'd be very grateful.

smacca

here is what pops up when i go to the site:



it has only been doing this since i mentioned it earlier, maybe 2 weeks. before that it worked fine for me.

.... and im ready to buy this board  ???

Brejna

Are the trimmer values 22K or 10K?

Brane

Taylor

22k will give more range in dialing it in, so I recommend that.