Building the Echo Base PCB

[Ginsengbob]

Would that possibly work in the small holes next to "time" and "b50k".
Thanks for the welcome.
So far this build has been very easy and enjoyable.
Just hope it all works when I'm done.
Just checked out your site.
Are there any sound samples from the Christine fuzz glitch pcb?

Thanks
Chris

[Taylor]

Yes, exactly. The silk screen component legend is your guide for what parts to put where. You don't need to worry about those tiny holes that have no silk screened part on them.

No clips of the Christine yet, in fact I haven't put the build document up. I will be doing that this weekend though. It's a really great project designed by The Tone God, and I thought it deserved some more attention, since it's such a simple build for how much it does.

[Ginsengbob]

Okay ,hopefully this is the last of my questions.
First , let me clarify.
When I was asking about the ground for the audio I was asking if it was ok to use the holes next to "time" and b50k, not the hole which says
G next to 9v.
They look like they might be vias.


Second.......
the 1UF cap that is directly under lfo speed B1m.
All I have is a polarized 1uf with a + and -.
would that work?
And if so , which way goes where?



thanks

[Taylor]

Okay ,hopefully this is the last of my questions.
First , let me clarify.
When I was asking about the ground for the audio I was asking if it was ok to use the holes next to "time" and b50k, not the hole which says
G next to 9v.
They look like they might be vias.

Ah, I see. In this case those 2 vias do in fact connect to ground, though you can't assume that this is always or even usually the case. So, yes you can connect your grounds there, though you might wind up with less noise by wiring grounds to the power jack (star grounding).

Second.......
the 1UF cap that is directly under lfo speed B1m.
All I have is a polarized 1uf with a + and -.
would that work?
And if so , which way goes where?



thanks

I'm not sure about that. Slacker (designer of the circuit) once said that while non-polar is technically required, it will probably work fine with a polarized cap. In this case I don't suppose orientation matters. Now, the cap may in fact fail at some point due to some amount of reverse voltage, so if I were you I'd still order a non-polar cap and replace the electro you have when you can.

[Ginsengbob]

thanks
I guess I'll have to make another order.
I'm also missing the 50k resistor , would a 51k make a difference?
I also noticed that there was some talk about both sides of the board needing to be soldered.
Is this right? Both sides should be soldered or does soldering on the bottom get through to the top as well.

I'm stoked to hear the Christine sound samples.
As soon as I get some extra cash I'm going to order all your other boards.

[Taylor]

51k resistor is fine - in general effects are designed with 5% tolerance resistors in mind, so anything within 5% of the value will be unlikely to make a noticeable difference, unless a precision resistor was specified.

It doesn't matter which side you solder on - the holes are plated through so they connect with both sides automatically. Most people solder on the side that does not have the silkscreen.

[Ginsengbob]

That's what i thought about the resistors.
When using a 78l05 does the flat end face the bottom towards the 220nf cap?

[Ginsengbob]

Ok
I think I see it now.
Feeling kind of stupid for not realizing the pinouts are the same.
Thanks for the help.
This forum really makes it pianless.

[rmachado]

Taylor, it's been one year I built my echobase.
He ran into some problems, because as you said, too many wires.
I wonder if you have pcb layout available in PDF, so I could make a model of its board, which I think is the best one.
I thank you, Raphael.
PS: I live in Brazil, and do not think that you can send me your PCB here, but I could buy you just the design of the PCB by e-mail. Sorry my English.

[Taylor]

Hi Raphael, unfortunately it's not possible to make this PCB at home, because it's double-sided and has extremely tight trace spacing. It has to be manufactured.

However, I do send PCBs to Brazil, and shipping isn't too expensive - check the website: musicpcb.com.

[rmachado]

Taylor,
The price is $ 14 of pcb + $ 2  maritime shipping?
How do I pay?
Thanks.

[Taylor]

Raphael, I sent you a private message with the details.

[rmachado]

Taylor,
I can not get value from $ 4 in shipping, it's always $ 2.
How do I proceed?
Thanks.

[Taylor]

Hi Raphael, can you email me at info@musicpcb.com? I will help you place the order.

[snarblinge]

just got my pcbs and starting the ordering of bits.

I also want to add in the feedback loop and switch it 2 or 3 ways, hopefully will have time to trawl the big thread, but just on the off chance has anyone made a quick schem. of the options?

[slacker]

For effects loops, have a look at my post in this thread http://www.electro-music.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39579&postorder=asc&start=375

[snarblinge]

thank you for the whole thing slacker. can't wait to hear this thing.

[phector2004]

Gonna finally build this thing tomorrow, hope it'll work just fine with the following subs:

2 x 20k --> 22k
2 x 47k --> 22k  (HB mod)
1 x 240k --> 220k
1 x 50k --> 47k

I'm also posting a comfortable-to-build 1590BB drilling layout for the "no frills" version (Bypass, Tails, LFO) to help out any disorganized mess creators like me. Hopefully, no considerable crushage will be needed to close the lid!



It's made to fit 16mm pots with plastic covers, "innie" DC jack, 2 toggles on the back, switchcraft-type jacks, LED bezel, and bypass switch of your choice.
Note that this relies on offboard wiring, not board-mounted pots! You'll need to drill the pots more closely together if you end up doing that.

[slacker]

Looks good, those subs will be fine.

[El Heisenberg]

Ugh my PCBs came two days before my smallbear order assuming smallbear arrives today. The wait is killibg me!!

Ive put everything on the board except the PT2399 and some other stuff. Gotta buy my PC mount pots locally today, as soon as i get my package.

The PCBs are crazy. Not like anything ive worked on since i started doin this. They really look...great. Its like assembling a Boss or Z-Vex pedal.



How does the diode lift mod from the PDF sound?