Etched enclosures

[ch1naski]

Having the worst luck getting the toner to transfer. On my fourth try, this time using photo paper. Crossing fingers....

Don't feel bad. I've never successfully etched a pedal. I don't know how these guys do it. It's tough enough to get a PCB etched just right.

partial luck with the photo paper, but not useable. I'm going to try sanding with 1800 grit before I transfer this time. The photo paper leaves a lot of stickiness on the box.

[Hexjibber]

Having the worst luck getting the toner to transfer. On my fourth try, this time using photo paper. Crossing fingers....

Don't feel bad. I've never successfully etched a pedal. I don't know how these guys do it. It's tough enough to get a PCB etched just right.

partial luck with the photo paper, but not useable. I'm going to try sanding with 1800 grit before I transfer this time. The photo paper leaves a lot of stickiness on the box.

Keep at it man, you'll get there! If it helps I sanded with 400 then 800 for about 15mins in total, rinsed then cleaned with acetone making sure not to touch the top surface afterwards. I use Polaroid Premium Gloss Photo Paper, 180gsm and transferred using the iron on the hottest setting and not applying too much pressure for about 10mins in total.

Thanks for the compliments guys, couldn't have done it without your help! Really enjoying it now!

[ch1naski]

Having the worst luck getting the toner to transfer. On my fourth try, this time using photo paper. Crossing fingers....

Don't feel bad. I've never successfully etched a pedal. I don't know how these guys do it. It's tough enough to get a PCB etched just right.

partial luck with the photo paper, but not useable. I'm going to try sanding with 1800 grit before I transfer this time. The photo paper leaves a lot of stickiness on the box.

Keep at it man, you'll get there! If it helps I sanded with 400 then 800 for about 15mins in total, rinsed then cleaned with acetone making sure not to touch the top surface afterwards. I use Polaroid Premium Gloss Photo Paper, 180gsm and transferred using the iron on the hottest setting and not applying too much pressure for about 10mins in total.

Thanks for the compliments guys, couldn't have done it without your help! Really enjoying it now!

my girl is going to get mad if I waste more of her photo paper:)
I ran out and brought home some wet/dry sandpaper, 180 up to 2500 grit. Sanded off with 400 (I've already sanded it with 180 a few times), cleaned with Zippo fluid, now trying with magazine paper....

[deadastronaut]

zippo fluid?...

i wouldn't bother with that....may leave an oily residue...


when sanding use a little washing up liquid too...then just rinse, dry..iron.

[davent]

I have never tried an etch so just speculation on my part but, have you been using are hard flat block to back your paper and level sand the top of your enclosure? Take a marker and mark up the top of the enclosure with that, sand with the hard backed paper and it's easy to see how uneven the surface is and what's necessary to get to a true flat face.

A soft backing of the paper would just follow whatever uneveness was present in the top, maybe even make it worse. If the top isn't perfectly flat you wouldn't get uniform heating when you try and transfer, the high areas would transfer but in the dips there would be issues.

dave

[ch1naski]

Okay, skipping the Zippo fluid.
I'm using a drywall sanding block, wrapped with the sandpaper. I started with 180, then 220, then 400. I've got a metal ruler as a straight edge to check that it's flat.

[ch1naski]

This is the image (before inverting and flipping) that I'm trying.

This is the last effort...couldn't get the paper completely off, but the toner had come off in key places that I don't think I could fix with paint pen. So I need to try it over.


Maybe the image is too detailed?

[deadastronaut]

the 'paper' image looks really rough....

[ch1naski]

the 'paper' image looks really rough....

I've since been using vector graphics for the actual transfer. The paper print was after converting to bitmap, and it's also on an inkjet.
The transfer image is very crisp and detailed, maybe too much fine detail....

Oh, yes, I'm also using a Brother laser printer. I've heard stories about them not being so good for this. But that's what I'm stuck with...

[electrosonic]

I could never get a good toner transfer with my Brother laser printer. I gave it away and bought a Samsung and have has much better luck.

Andrew.

[davent]

Something else that's real handy to have on your art would be the "crosshairs" for your pots', jack (meant switch) and LED holes. Will ensure that your holes and legending are aligned.

dave

[ch1naski]

I could never get a good toner transfer with my Brother laser printer. I gave it away and bought a Samsung and have has much better luck.

Andrew.

that's what I've been hearing. I'm going to get a different one.
Yet another thing to suck up my money.....all in the name of my obsessive hobby.

[ch1naski]

Something else that's real handy to have on your art would be the "crosshairs" for your pots', jack and LED holes. Will ensure that your holes and legending are aligned.

dave

I'm still struggling with illustrator/Photoshop/inkscape, I have a hell of a time with "layers" and importing graphics from one image to another. Vector packs are somewhat of a pain for me at the moment. But I'm making progress. I used rulers and went off of a three knob 125b drill template I found around here somewhere.

[John Lyons]

On the subject of getting the box flat.
Using a hard flat bock to sand with is one way.
Another way it to put a wet sheet of wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper
on a sheet of glass then sand with the top side of the enclosure down.
Make sure to keep the paper wet and wash of the metal dust every once
and a while. You can hold down the paper to the glass with one hand
and hold the box with the other.

One way to get around having a super flat box top is to
take out some of the slop by making your iron surface softer.
It's hard to get two hard surfaces perfectly parallel, especially when you are
moving them around,
Put a folded sheet of paper between the iron and the box.
This will iron out any small imperfections and give you more contact between
the iron and box. They make different sanding pads for this very reason.
You could use 3 or 4 sheets if you like. Or heavier paper.
Once the box is hot it does not take that much heat to keep it there.

EDIT:
May as well add this for clarity. Use an even pressure and circular
ironing motion. I make small circles around all the edges and then work
into the center with some mild pressure. You want to work over the
entire area and press the photo paper or press and peel blue onto the
whole surface of the box while keeping the iron and box as parallel as posible.
That being said, I lean a little on the fist half/tip of the iron while making circles.

[ch1naski]

Thanks for the help, John.
I finally got a decent transfer, but I think the details were too fine. The etch didn't pick it all up, and some of the toner seems to have given way during the etching. It wouldn't rub off with my fingers, but didn't hold up in the etching process.
I won't really know how my first one came out until I sand it down tomorrow. It's late, I have been at this all day.

One thing I do know, I'm getting a new laser printer this week. I've heard too many bad things about Brother printers. Get what you pay for, I guess.


I just want to thank you all for the help and suggestions. I love these forums. You all rock.

[ch1naski]

Okay.
My first etch. Be kind. After initial sanding (I used a dremel with a wire brush to clean some of the lettering so I can go back over it with a paintpen).


It's going to house Jon Patton's clipper ship. Hence the  ship.


I think the toner didn't transfer too well.
Getting rid of the brother laser printer tomorrow, and investing in a decent one. I've got one suggestion for Samsung.
Any other suggestions for a decent, inexpensive laser printer?

[John Lyons]

That actually looks pretty good other than the pin hole pitting.
Make sure to mask off the area where etchant can seep under the
toner transfer. I use dollar store enamel paint dabbed on with a small
artist brush. Use a strong light. If you see any aluminum gleaming through
then dab on some paint to keep that area from etching.
One way you can keep etchant in the right place is by dabbing it on the areas
you want to etch rather than submerging the whole top. Use a Q tip/earbud
soaked in etchant and after a few retouches wash away the spent etchant and
dab on more may take a bit more time but it's highly more accurate in localizing
your etch areas and cutting down on surface area where pin holes may hide.

Another way to do it is to entirely coat the top with paint right up to where the
transfer isn't blocking etchant. Will take some time but the etch will be only
where you want it. Covering larger areas with toner isn't foolproof, it's quite thin
and unrealistic to think that it will be 100% blocking.

[ch1naski]

Thanks, John. I used a paint pen to cover the edges of the toner, but not in the large patches of toner. And i did submerge it.
Lesson learned.
I'll cover everything I can with enamel next time. Also plan on trying the sponge/sponge qtip method. Good thing I've got a few bare enclosures here....

[deadastronaut]

well its not too bad.

like john said look at it under a light, you'll see shiny specs where the toner missed...basically paint everything you don't etch.


printer: samsung ML1600: 

[Mustachio]

Yup I agree with those guys, and don't worry this is good practice and fun!

Printer: I bought a Canon LBP6000 recently its awesome , and cheap for what where doing here. I got mine for 50 bucks brand new. The options for toner darkness etc are great and simple to find.