Etched enclosures

mfunky · September 25, 2015, 03:52:12 PM

Right. Spray paint only the recessed areas [emoji6]

VidSicious · September 26, 2015, 07:39:14 AM

Quote from: garcho on September 25, 2015, 12:46:23 PM
you paint it after you sand

But that doesn't make sense if he's doing a reverse etch, right?

Hatredman · September 27, 2015, 01:35:39 AM

Garcho, loved the "M-Transistor" logo.

darron · September 27, 2015, 02:51:32 AM

if you're sanding with a slat, unbending surface, then the raised metal should stop the lower painted parts from being scratched. try sanding against a pane of glass.

lars-musik · September 28, 2015, 04:32:18 AM

Quote from: darron on September 27, 2015, 02:51:32 AM
if you're sanding with a slat, unbending surface, then the raised metal should stop the lower painted parts from being scratched. try sanding against a pane of glass.

Yes, that's what I figure. It seems, the sanding paper - altough stiff and fixed on the workbench is still to flexible and penetrates the paint-filled grooves. I bought a large cutting disk, hopefully that'll do.

darron · September 28, 2015, 05:35:25 AM

Quote from: lars-musik on September 28, 2015, 04:32:18 AM
Quote from: darron on September 27, 2015, 02:51:32 AM
if you're sanding with a slat, unbending surface, then the raised metal should stop the lower painted parts from being scratched. try sanding against a pane of glass.
Yes, that's what I figure. It seems, the sanding paper - altough stiff and fixed on the workbench is still to flexible and penetrates the paint-filled grooves. I bought a large cutting disk, hopefully that'll do.

i'm not an expert, but i've had years of playing around. i guess for me i have to try to apply as little pressure so that that the paper doesn't fill the gaps as you say. a really light pressure and let the paper do the work very slowly rather than forcing it.

it sucks, stuff like that sometimes is half science, and half art. and the thing that drives you the most is just trying not to screw it up!

duck_arse · September 28, 2015, 10:38:17 AM

here's a sandpaper trick - use the plank of plate glass, and use decent wet or dry sandpaperpaper. smear a dribble of water on the glass before you plonk the paper on the plank, and the various tensions provided by Mrs Nature will hold the paper very nicely flat and in one place.

in theory.

vigilante397 · September 28, 2015, 12:24:35 PM

I use sanding sponges from ACE hardware (in the states). They're stiff enough to stay level and only sand what you intend to sand, and they are available in a variety of different grits. I also usually bake the paint layer before I sand, so the paint stays solid and doesn't just get rubbed away.

davent · September 28, 2015, 12:32:14 PM

I'm sure sanding the top level with the hard sanding block before etching would give you better/cleaner sanding results after etching and painting.
dave

garcho · September 28, 2015, 01:32:29 PM

QuoteBut that doesn't make sense if he's doing a reverse etch, right?

my humor often doesn't come across textually...

deadastronaut · September 28, 2015, 02:23:05 PM

If it is sanded flat properly, then when you sand the raised areas only those raised parts should be affected..

use a block...ALWAYS...and you should be ok.

deadastronaut · October 05, 2015, 05:45:27 AM

quick question ...

i have to etch an aluminium 19'' rack face plate, (printing/finding a container should be fun

)

now the face plate is black powder coated, front/back/edges,

i will sand off just the front to bare aluminium to etch but....

will the powder coat that remains on the sides/back be a good resist?...never tried it.

thoughts?...(using ferric) cheers guys,.

stallik · October 05, 2015, 06:09:10 AM

Not tried it either but while it's likely to be a good resist, such a big plate can flex easily. Does the finish crack under those circumstances?

deadastronaut · October 05, 2015, 06:11:40 AM

hmmmm....yeah hadn't thought of that...

good idea, i'll strap a piece of wood to its back...

heres the rack:
http://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_87407_19_1hegehaeuse.htm

19" Housing
1,2 mm steel, black powder coated
Front panel, 3 mm Aluminium, black powder coated
Flat-packed with screws
Depth: 250 mm
1 U

italianguy63 · October 05, 2015, 06:32:09 AM

Rob I would think Powder Coat would be a great resist... MC

deadastronaut · October 05, 2015, 06:40:56 AM

cheers mark, yeah i figured as such , but you never know..

i'll defo watch for any cracking just in case......

now to print the bugger in 2 parts and join,

then find a 20'' long thin container...hmmm..

i have a big plastic toy trunk big enough i can butcher, i'll just have to cut n glue it to size...

never done a rack before, so it should be interesting...

stallik · October 05, 2015, 07:47:25 AM

Cardboard box lined with a thick poly bag just might save the toy trunk

deadastronaut · October 05, 2015, 07:51:08 AM

aha...yes...great idea, and a lot easier to make for sure..

i shall attack my cats food boxes..

cheers kevin..

stallik · October 05, 2015, 08:19:57 AM

19in of deadastro etch. We expect something special

No pressure................

deadastronaut · October 05, 2015, 08:30:54 AM

oh man, i dread to think what its going to be..

its been a nightmare, i offered (like a proverbial mug) to build a 'clean' preamp with nice eq and integrated 1 watt amp
for low level practice/recording using a 12'' 8 ohm speaker for my son in law,
and its become an epic task, with more add-ons than a meccano set

with send/return/di out/ speaker out/ preamp out...which thankfully dear old samhay has helped me out with..cheers man.

arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....my head..

anyway the diy pcb board is designed/populated/ just waiting on the rack to do wiring etc..

cant wait to get it finished and out of my head...its been one of those ''i wish i kept quiet projects''

it does sound nice though..

btw, what is it with XLR sockets...no screws/bolts come with them it seems..?..

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mfunky