Methods of Pedal Contruction...

Started by swinginguitar, August 02, 2010, 12:05:52 PM

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EATyourGuitar

the THD amp designer said it best. P2P can sound better sometimes but not always. the big advantage to PCB is that you can make 1000 units and they all sound the same. he still makes everything on PCB and charging boutique prices.
WWW.EATYOURGUITAR.COM <---- MY DIY STUFF

Hides-His-Eyes

Quote from: EATyourGuitar on November 15, 2010, 02:10:48 PM
P2P can sound better sometimes but not always

How? Under what circumstances? Why?

Greenmachine

I've heard that because of the 3D nature of point-to-point wiring, you avoid any cross-phasing between traces on a pcb - leading to a better sound.  I'd welcome any other opinions though because I really can't support this comment with any research or personal experience.  Point-to-point looks eminently cooler though, I must say.   :icon_lol:

Galego







Lately i've been doing mine with as much as i can onboard...

edvard

Dude, those look awesome!
I never thought of fitting parts under the pots... *facepalm*

That sort of work is kind of what I'd like to do eventually, but I what I need to get there is re-work a bunch of my Eagle files to show pots and switches in final positions.
Problem is, the Free version doesn't allow boundaries out to the size of a 1590BB so to allow the PCB drawing to double as a drill template (which would be ideal).
I suppose it'd work for a B size though, and I guess as long as I worked out exactly where everything was relatively, I could simply match up the PCB drawing with the template by the pot and switch positions.

Or maybe I should just buy the Standard Eagle, ESPECIALLY if I'm thinking of doing any selling...  :icon_redface:
All children left unattended will be given a mocha and a puppy

tubelectron

Hi All & Thanks,

In fact, I do not have any equipment to draw and etch PCBs... But I have all the stuff and knowledge to do handwired circuits (mainly tube-based) for 30 years, like this one - which is not a pedal, nor solid-state, but a tube amp :



I do what is the easiest way for me, that's all... When I need a PCB, I often buy it etched and ready to solder. But I think I should acquire the equipment to realize PCBs : it is way more suitable and practical for solid-state technology and pedals !

I understand so that no one would waste its time on PTPHW like me when PCBs can do it easier and faster...

A+!
I apologize for my approximative english writing and understanding !
http://guilhemamplification.jimdofree.com/

jacobyjd

The main point of P2P in pedal designs for me is simply the coolness factor of it. I love how it looks :)
Warsaw, Indiana's poetic love rock band: http://www.bellwethermusic.net

stringsthings

#27
Quote from: swinginguitar on August 02, 2010, 12:05:52 PM
So I've breadboarded my first effects circuit and am laying out a PC Board design.

I would like some feedback from those with more experience than I on some details:

1 - how do you mount your PCBs? Standoffs? Board mounted components (switches/jacks/pots)?
2 - for board mounting a 3PDT, do you just enlarge the pad holes and use a standard switch, or an SMD 3PDT?
3 - is it worth the effort to board mount switches/jacks/pots/LEDs, or is it better just to mount all of that to the enclosure and wire it "off board"?
4 - Any general tips on component layout on a PCB? Trying to keep the board small and the traces short....hairpulling experience at times.

congratulations on your first effects circuit .... and here's some feedback .... postive? negative? ( just a bit of op amp circuit humour  :icon_lol: )

1)  when i first started putting together DIY circuits, i used screws/spacers/nuts to mount the board to the enclosure ... it's not the prettiest solution, but it's remarkably sturdy ... for example: #6-32 x 1/2" machine screws and nuts with phillips/slotted heads

2) i have not board mounted a 3PDT ... but that certainly is a (steve)-via-ble option  :icon_cool: that will save enclosure space and reduce lead lengths to the switch which can only be a good thing ...

3)  great question ... i would say it depends on your circuit ... if your circuit is a high-gain fuzz/distortion/overdrive, board mounting may be a bit of overkill .... OTOH, if your circuit is a tremelo with some super-cool bells and whistles ( http://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/TremBear/TremBear.html ), then board mounting can really keep interference ( in the form of noise and circuit interaction ) from messing up the shimmering sound of the tremelo ... ... board mounting certainly cannot hurt ... it just requires more planning ... trial and error ....

4) general tips on component layout?  if you're socketing IC's or transistors, leave room around the sockets for easy access ...to conserve enclosure space, keep your components as flush to the board as possible ... don't get discouraged if your first PCB layout doesn't work 100% .... for example: if you're getting unwanted interaction, separate some traces on the 2nd proto-board ... or try using single-point grounding ...

again, congratulations on digging deeper into the goldmine of DIY electronics as it applies to the electric guitar .... as Mr. Spock would say,

"It is highly logical that with research, knowledge, application, and time, someone will discover the better fuzz box"

Manny

Bruno the tidyness of that p2p is really brilliant.
Truly stunning work!  :)

tubelectron

I apologize for my approximative english writing and understanding !
http://guilhemamplification.jimdofree.com/