Does anyone etch enclosures using UV photoresist?

[Beo]

All of the tutorials and threads I've read regarding enclosure etching involved iron on transfer (e.g. PNP). I've had some success with this, but I've also had a lot of bad transfers (I think I need to try a different laser printer).

I'm setting up a UV station for etching PCBs using presensitized photoresist copper board. I understand that you can use regular copper board, and apply the photoresist using a spray. I've also seen other metal and glass etching websites that seem to describe developing this spray on photoresist onto other materials.

So, is anyone out there using spray on UV photoresist to transfer their etch designs onto enclosures?

Thanks
Travis

[trjones1]

I've tried it.  I think it would work well, but i actually never got it to work because the chemicals involved are extremely nasty and i don't have a good space to work in, so i gave up after burning out my sinuses a couple of times.  I think that with a very well ventilated work space photo resist etching of boxes would give nice results.

[ParlorCitySound]

I use photo-style etching at school and toner-style at home. Photo certainly yields a more constant perfect result; however, its a bit of a pain when it comes to exposing it. I couldn't really figure out a way to cheaply make a light table so I've stuck with using magazine paper and an iron. I've considered trying to go the photo route but it will end up much more costly. Having to buy photoresist or worse, boards already sprayed, a chemical to remove resist and etching solution seems like a pain. Magazines are damn near free, water too.

If you don't already, try heating the copper board up for about 20 seconds before placing the toner print onto it. It will stick immediately so don't try to move it, but so far I haven't had a bad transfer yet since warming the board. Grab some fine steel wool also, helps a ton to keep the toner on the copper when pealing off the wet paper.

-Kevin

[KazooMan]

I agree that you need a good clean  surface to get a good transfer.  Fine steel wool works great, but be aware that some steel wool comes with a bit of oil on it to keep it from rusting.  That could give a poor transfer.  You might want to wash the board after the steel wool (drying without touching it) or wipe it down with a solvent.