"Little Angel" - Super Simple PT2399 Mini Chorus

[Pigyboy]

I'm not a cork sniffer but I do think using ceramic caps make the circuit have a lot of hiss. At least it did in the last one I built. I had used all film caps in the others and the latest seems more hissy with the ceramics. I did have to change the amp I test my stuff thru as the Peavey Classic 50 went back to our practice studio and now now I am using a Marshall Artist 30 tube amp to test at home. I would like to know it anyone else has this experience with the hiss.
Cheers,
Chris

I've got hiss without the use of ceramic caps.

Hey P_wats
Try a different amp if you can. I built another Angel today with film caps for a present for someone and both it and the other I have with ceramics are totally silent when I run them thru a Behringer powered speaker I have here. I have never liked this Marshall Artist 30. It has always been very trebly and also I just noticed I can really hear the effect oscillating when I am not playing much more than through the PA speaker. I didn't have this problem with the Classic 50.

[davepedals]

would some kind soul work out the caps part list for me in terms for big bear electronics? they use mf, pf - not uf or nf. i know i'll screw it up if i do it myself! thanks,

[p_wats]

would some kind soul work out the caps part list for me in terms for big bear electronics? they use mf, pf - not uf or nf. i know i'll screw it up if i do it myself! thanks,

http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html

[davepedals]

fantastic...thanks!  so what caps should I use? ceramic, poly film, silver mica? any one of these quieter?  I cannot find a 470k pot at small bear, is 500k ok?
thanks!

[Hides-His-Eyes]

a good start:

ceramic for anything small, poly film for anything over a nf, electrolytic for anything over 1uf

[Kearns892]

Dave, Small Bear lists many of their caps as mF. On their site, this designation means Micro-Farads; 10^-6 farads. This is the same as the standard designation - µF. This causes some confusion as in the SI system, the prefix µ typically designates micro (10^-6) whereas m designates milli (10^-3), but Small Bear does not hold to this convention! On the Small Bear site mF is really µF: microfarads.

Note pF is picofarads and stands for 10^-12 farads and nF is nanofarads and stands for 10^-9 farads.

Hope this helps!

[davepedals]

ok thanks for that info!  i've found about 4 different images now for this chorus, some show the components a bit differently for the caps. is there a correct caps list anywhere? specifically I need to know which caps (and how many) are electrolytic.  also some images show a 470k pot, other's show both pots as 100k, this has me confused a bit.  does the pcb from tonepad come with parts list and parts placement printed on the board?

it's been awhile since i've done a build but in the past i've built at least 100 projects.  

many thanks!

[BoxOfSnoo]

ok thanks for that info!  i've found about 4 different images now for this chorus, some show the components a bit differently for the caps. is there a correct caps list anywhere? specifically I need to know which caps (and how many) are electrolytic.  also some images show a 470k pot, other's show both pots as 100k, this has me confused a bit.  does the pcb from tonepad come with parts list and parts placement printed on the board?

it's been awhile since i've done a build but in the past i've built at least 100 projects.  

The two 10uF capacitors, the 100uF and the 47uF are electrolytic.  You can tell on the schematic in the first post, the ones that are polarized are the electrolytic ones.  You should always use the schematic as the definitive source for information, rather than relying solely on a layout  it will help you considerably in the future!  Use layouts more for parts location rather than parts identification.

However, a good verified layout is valuable.  check this post out: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=86297.msg723128#msg723128 the round purple ones are electrolytic.

There was a discussion earlier on about the 470k pot (or 500k) where many found that a 100K would perform just as well, and make more difference over its whole travel.  The 500K in its higher resistance ranges was more like doubling rather than a separated chorusy sound.

[Barcode80]

ok thanks for that info!  i've found about 4 different images now for this chorus, some show the components a bit differently for the caps. is there a correct caps list anywhere? specifically I need to know which caps (and how many) are electrolytic.  also some images show a 470k pot, other's show both pots as 100k, this has me confused a bit.  does the pcb from tonepad come with parts list and parts placement printed on the board?

it's been awhile since i've done a build but in the past i've built at least 100 projects.  

many thanks!

I don't know of a Tonepad project for this...

[frequencycentral]

ok thanks for that info!  i've found about 4 different images now for this chorus, some show the components a bit differently for the caps. is there a correct caps list anywhere? specifically I need to know which caps (and how many) are electrolytic.  also some images show a 470k pot, other's show both pots as 100k, this has me confused a bit.  does the pcb from tonepad come with parts list and parts placement printed on the board?

it's been awhile since i've done a build but in the past i've built at least 100 projects.  

many thanks!

I don't know of a Tonepad project for this...

Neither do I. I think he means guitarpcb.com, who no longer stock it.

BTW, when Slade built an Angel he used rev log for both pots and reported a nice even taper.

[davepedals]

yes i meant guitarpcb.com. too bad they no longer offer it! thanks for all the info!

[edukdu]

Hey guys...greetings from brazil...

First of all...Congratulation on the schematic, Rick...my new favorite box...

Now...i was wondering if its possible to add a rate led to pin 6 of PT, for delay mod...

thanks again for this wonderfull little box...

Edu Gomes

[askwho69]

Hi rick and everyone! i would like to build this box but one more question has anyone tried it with high gain? is it quite?  because robote delay is very noisy

[Barcode80]

Hi rick and everyone! i would like to build this box but one more question has anyone tried it with high gain? is it quite?  because robote delay is very noisy

You may have a problem with your build. Mine is quiet as a mouse. It doesn't get any noise except on the longest delay times.

[askwho69]

mmmhhh maybe ... it hizz like cracking! try to figure itout

[Xide88]

Holy ###t!!!! this pedal is amazing!!!!

Rick, thanks a lot for this chorus!!!!! 

Спасибо огромное! 

[frequencycentral]

Holy ###t!!!! this pedal is amazing!!!!

Rick, thanks a lot for this chorus!!!!! 

Спасибо огромное! 

Your welcome!

[bluesman1218]

Did the vero board build and I have a ton of crackling. So much that I can't hear the chorus effect. VCC voltage is 4.97 on PT2399 and 5.4 on NE5532. I had the rate LED wired and it worked intermittently, but disconnected it. I'll hook it back up when the pedal is working. I'm not a circuit guy, just a builder, so if anyone has any suggestions, I would really appreciate it.

All solder joints are good, no bridging to adjacent traces, all trace cuts are clean and non-conductive, no components touching ground that shouldn't be grounded. I have swapped both chips and it's the same problem with all of them.

BTW, I got the last 2 boards from GuitarPCB and they'll be here soon. I will probably do a fresh build on them.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

VCC voltage is 4.97 on PT2399 and 5.4 on NE5532.

This does not look correct. You should have about 9V at Pin 8 of your 5532.

[bluesman1218]

VCC voltage is 4.97 on PT2399 and 5.4 on NE5532.

This does not look correct. You should have about 9V at Pin 8 of your 5532.

Correction - 8.65v at pin 8 of 5532 and 8.64v at Q1

Are there other readings I should be looking at?

Thanks for bearing with me.
Steve

BTW, here's a pic of the enclosure. Quickie paint job and decal for the alpha build.