Preferred 1/4" Plugs?

Started by Philippe, August 12, 2010, 02:44:58 AM

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Philippe

There's a bunch of them out there, many of which we've all used on a regular basis (e.g. Switchcraft, Neutrik, G&H, Canare among the 'soldered-in' connections + the solderless style GeorgeL).

Now outside of the purported 'tonal' features of gold-plating or nickel-plating & minor variances in things like strain-relief & the covers, aren't these pretty much all the same with the exception of the GeorgeL design? The hype on the manufacturer's data sheets would have you believe otherwise while various cable-makers often expound the virtues of using a certain brand of connector on their products. *BFD*

Seems to me that most conventional 'name-brand' 1/4" plugs are nothing more than standard 1/4" plugs (excluding of course the cheaply-made/imported pot metal ones from Radio Shack...besides you wouldn't see that kind of crap on a premium cable anyway).


darron

using a straightened coat hanger should sound about the same as gold-plated copper....

it's the electromechanical differences that you pay for it plugs mostly. how reliable it is and how snug it feels.
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

skrunk

switchcraft enclosed or neutrik open.
balls to tonal features.

jkokura

I use the American made Neutrik ends when I need soldered connections, and I use the Lava Cables for the non soldered kind. (The chinese ones have plastic in them and rattle, which is why I don't use them)

Jacob

zombiwoof

Quote from: skrunk on August 12, 2010, 07:25:52 AM
switchcraft enclosed or neutrik open.
balls to tonal features.

Open or enclosed PLUGS?.  I think you are talking about jacks, he's asking about plugs.

Al

skrunk

so he is, my apologies  :icon_redface:
my second sentence still applies though.

Renegadrian

Funny thing is that here in Italy when we talk about a cable we say CAVO (which is the translation as you may easily see) or JACK!!! JACK also applies to the plug alone or even the "real" jack...So I guess it would lead to some misunderstanding if you ask for a jack here. (Uh, it also refers to the liquor!!!)  ;D
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Processaurus

All of the cheap, knockoff 1/4" plugs I've tried have wound up being unreliable in some fashion, name brands (especially those manufactured in the US, or Europe)seem to work out better in the long run.  Had all kinds of trouble with asian no-name plugs (I've gotten off ebay, etc.) slowly failing over the years, at bad times.

These days, I prefer G&H right angle plugs, some here for $2.80, they seem as reliable as the switchcraft R/A and are cheaper.  I believe it is a patented design, which is why you don't see copies.

I don't like the switchcraft pancake type plugs, because they sometimes don't fit into gear with closely spaced jacks well, like Boss pedals.  They also seem hard to resolder right, or I'm missing something, because they tend to stop working after I touch them.

The cheap plastic backed Neutrik ones are giant, but decent, I've gotten them at Redco for $1 (who incidentally, have an excellent clone of the nice, heavy, Canare GS-6 guitar cable).  Avoid Redco's generic right angle (switchcraft knockoff) plugs, they aren't very good, nor cheap.

For straight, I stick with the standard Switchcraft 280, they aren't impressive looking, but they're very reliable, and compact.  The Neutrik 280 knockoffs seem decent, if you're feeling cheap ($1).

Earthscum

I can't say much about any particular brand... I've used so many, mostly cheap cables. The biggest problem I have with soldered ends is that the cheaper plugs tend to melt the plastic barrier between the tip and ring, and they no longer fit in tight jack-holes (also a derogatory term in the Rocky Mountains).  :icon_biggrin:

I can say that my drummer has a George L jumper that he bought over 20 years ago that I am still beating on to this day. This thing has NEVER failed me. It has drug many effects around the floor. Neither of us have even had to re-clip the ends. Big thumbs up for that. I plan on getting a George L cable for my bass => effects, if I can quit buying electronic parts with my spare cash. Things are expensive, but IMHO, and experience with the little guy, it'll be worth it for a cord I plan on having for at least 20 years. I think the only other 20+ year old cord that hasn't been resoldered is a coil cord that never gets used. Wonder why.
Give a man Fuzz, and he'll jam for a day... teach a man how to make a Fuzz and he'll never jam again!

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zombiwoof

Quote from: Processaurus on August 12, 2010, 08:37:47 PM
All of the cheap, knockoff 1/4" plugs I've tried have wound up being unreliable in some fashion, name brands (especially those manufactured in the US, or Europe)seem to work out better in the long run.  Had all kinds of trouble with asian no-name plugs (I've gotten off ebay, etc.) slowly failing over the years, at bad times.

These days, I prefer G&H right angle plugs, some here for $2.80, they seem as reliable as the switchcraft R/A and are cheaper.  I believe it is a patented design, which is why you don't see copies.

I don't like the switchcraft pancake type plugs, because they sometimes don't fit into gear with closely spaced jacks well, like Boss pedals.  They also seem hard to resolder right, or I'm missing something, because they tend to stop working after I touch them.

The cheap plastic backed Neutrik ones are giant, but decent, I've gotten them at Redco for $1 (who incidentally, have an excellent clone of the nice, heavy, Canare GS-6 guitar cable).  Avoid Redco's generic right angle (switchcraft knockoff) plugs, they aren't very good, nor cheap.

For straight, I stick with the standard Switchcraft 280, they aren't impressive looking, but they're very reliable, and compact.  The Neutrik 280 knockoffs seem decent, if you're feeling cheap ($1).

Soldering to the body of the pancake right angle plugs requires the same technique as soldering to the back of a pot, a little more wattage iron, a flat tip helps, with some flux.  It's easy if you know how to do it.  You're soldering to more metal mass than you are when you solder to a straight plug's lug, so you don't use a 15 watt pencil iron to do it.

Al

Philippe

Quote from: Processaurus on August 12, 2010, 08:37:47 PM
(who incidentally, have an excellent clone of the nice, heavy, Canare GS-6 guitar cable). 
That Canare GS-6 cable is really terrific...outstanding presence & clarity. Reasonably priced & far better-sounding than those 12 foot $40.00 Monster Rock offerings.

azrael

TBH, I really like the pancake style plugs at Radioshack. SUPER sturdy. Compact and durable - perfect for pedalboard patch cables.