Raco 4" x 4" x 1.5" enclosures less expensive than you think

[LucifersTrip]

Just a heads up for beginners...


I stopped by Lowes recently to see what could work as an "enclosure".  I know a ton of people have used these electrical boxes before, but damn, the prices are lower than I expected.

Box: $1.09
http://www.lowes.com/pd_74222-427-8189_0_?newSearch=true&returnToShoppingURL=SearchCatalogDisplay%3FNtt%3D74222%26langId%3D-1%26storeId%3D10151%26y%3D1%26N%3D0%26catalogId%3D10051%26x%3D42%26newSearch%3Dtrue&catalogId=10051&productId=3129657&Ntt=74222&N=0&langId=-1&y=1&x=42&Ns=&storeId=10151&Ntk=i_products&ddkey=http:SearchCatalogDisplay

Lid: $.57
http://www.lowes.com/pd_55761-427-8752_0_?newSearch=true&returnToShoppingURL=SearchCatalogDisplay%3FNtt%3D55761%26langId%3D-1%26storeId%3D10151%26y%3D0%26N%3D0%26catalogId%3D10051%26x%3D0%26newSearch%3Dtrue&catalogId=10051&productId=3129183&Ntt=55761&N=0&langId=-1&y=0&x=0&Ns=&storeId=10151&Ntk=i_products&ddkey=http:SearchCatalogDisplay

$1.66 total for a box that has 4 pre-drilled (semi) holes for the 3PDT switch and 3 pots...and well positioned, too.

This'll tide me over for some small projects before the 1590DD's come in...


have a blast

[Taylor]

Yeah, I had the same realization, but then when I began drilling them I found it to be so much more annoying than aluminum, that I'm not sure it's worth it. Even if those 4 holes on the top are in the right spot for you, you'll need to at least drill holes for audio and power jacks, and these are a pain.

[LucifersTrip]

Yeah, I had the same realization, but then when I began drilling them I found it to be so much more annoying than aluminum, that I'm not sure it's worth it. Even if those 4 holes on the top are in the right spot for you, you'll need to at least drill holes for audio and power jacks, and these are a pain.

I enlarged the 4 holes on top & drilled the 2 in back for audio jacks in less 10 minutes...a total joke.   Are you using sharpened drill bits?  
Also, remember to work your way up to the size you're going for with a couple smaller holes first....and remember, for metal, the speed
of the drill is not important, so something like a Dremel isn't great. A larger, more powerful, slower drill works great.

[deadastronaut]

galvanised........arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.................

i like your 666 skull though!.....cool...

[ViolenceOnTheRadio]

I'm glad I checked this thread because the nephew is going to be wanting me to build him a clone of my signature overdrive I've slaved over development of for the last 3-4 years and I have no desire to also build him one of my custom, fancy wooden enclosures which I have to line with sheet steel anyway.
They actually look pretty cool too!

[LucifersTrip]

galvanised........arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.................

hahah..it's really not tough to work with...hey, I'm not doing any sculpting.

i like your 666 skull though!.....cool...

Thanx. it was a blast. I'll set it up for Halloween through a Back Talk to scare the kiddies

[Taylor]

Yeah, I had the same realization, but then when I began drilling them I found it to be so much more annoying than aluminum, that I'm not sure it's worth it. Even if those 4 holes on the top are in the right spot for you, you'll need to at least drill holes for audio and power jacks, and these are a pain.

I enlarged the 4 holes on top & drilled the 2 in back for audio jacks in less 10 minutes...a total joke.   Are you using sharpened drill bits?  
Also, remember to work your way up to the size you're going for with a couple smaller holes first....and remember, for metal, the speed
of the drill is not important, so something like a Dremel isn't great. A larger, more powerful, slower drill works great.

Yeah, I drill aluminum boxes every day. I use a Unibit, and a hole takes me maybe 15 seconds to go from no hole to full diameter. The Raco boxes took me around 2 minutes per hole. I guess for me it's just not worth all the extra time to save 3 bucks or so. I'm cheap, but also lazy.

[caress]

i really dislike the way they look... 

[Taylor]

Well, that's the other thing. And you can't etch them, which is how I do my boxes these days usually. I think they can look cool, but you're really limited finishing-wise because of the non-uniform surface.

[davidallancole]

They would be cheap, excellent boxes for knocking out prototypes till your happy with your finished circuit.

[LucifersTrip]

Yeah, I had the same realization, but then when I began drilling them I found it to be so much more annoying than aluminum, that I'm not sure it's worth it. Even if those 4 holes on the top are in the right spot for you, you'll need to at least drill holes for audio and power jacks, and these are a pain.

I enlarged the 4 holes on top & drilled the 2 in back for audio jacks in less 10 minutes...a total joke.   Are you using sharpened drill bits?  
Also, remember to work your way up to the size you're going for with a couple smaller holes first....and remember, for metal, the speed
of the drill is not important, so something like a Dremel isn't great. A larger, more powerful, slower drill works great.

Yeah, I drill aluminum boxes every day. I use a Unibit, and a hole takes me maybe 15 seconds to go from no hole to full diameter. The Raco boxes took me around 2 minutes per hole. I guess for me it's just not worth all the extra time to save 3 bucks or so. I'm cheap, but also lazy.

I was planning to use these for the small projects and the 1590dd's for larger. I'm just building too many to justify buying 1590bb's for all the small ones, especially since I always stray from standard boxes anyway. The price difference for me is much larger than $3 or so, or I would go with the 1590's. These cost $1.80 incl tax and the 1590bb's cost $8-10 + shipping

[deadastronaut]

its the 3pdt's that are the main cost in England........£5-6 each,,,,

[petemoore]

  You got lucky with the drilling, get one knockout knocked out and you'll wish you:
  Drilled near the tab, not the other end of the circle.
  Used a clamp to hold the far side of the circle [from the tab] enough not to bend the tab a tiny amount so as to break the finish [seems like theres some kind of glue-ey finish that makes the knockouts strong until broken].
  Used a sharp tool.
  Braced it from the inside by gripping a credit card loaded with really super epoxy using a breadbag [instead of having to hunt up gloves]..float the epoxy layer across any knockout seams, at least 24 hours prior to drilling.
  ..then theres the outside...I have lots of Raco'd circuits though, even bondoed a Raco a few times [ugh] it works but is work to make it look 'sweet' that way.
  Dual layer leather art looked pretty good, white background through black leather-cut lettering looks cool and was fairly quick/easy with diamond shaped jack openings.

[Hides-His-Eyes]

its the 3pdt's that are the main cost in England........£5-6 each,,,,

£4 if you order three from hong kong on ebay

£3.75 on doc tweek with the lowest postage anywhere

Or just millenium bypass...

[LucifersTrip]

its the 3pdt's that are the main cost in England........£5-6 each,,,,

This should knock the cost down a bit...£2.45 ppd:
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-3PDT-True-Bypass-Guitar-Effect-Stomp-Foot-Switch-SB-/300457446219?pt=Guitar_Accessories

[stringsthings]

Well, that's the other thing. And you can't etch them, which is how I do my boxes these days usually. I think they can look cool, but you're really limited finishing-wise because of the non-uniform surface.

excellent point .... you're finishing options are indeed limited .... i usually just label with a sharpie ...

advantages:

   1) availability
   2) lots of space to work in
   3) will withstand a lot of dropping

disadvantages:

   1) limited finishing options
   2) heavy
   3) harder to drill/cut than aluminum

[LucifersTrip]

Well, that's the other thing. And you can't etch them, which is how I do my boxes these days usually. I think they can look cool, but you're really limited finishing-wise because of the non-uniform surface.

excellent point .... you're finishing options are indeed limited .... i usually just label with a sharpie ...

advantages:

   1) availability
   2) lots of space to work in
   3) will withstand a lot of dropping

disadvantages:

   1) limited finishing options
   2) heavy
   3) harder to drill/cut than aluminum

advantages:

   1) cost: 5 - 6 times less expensive
   2) availability
   3) partial holes pre-drilled in convenient locations [1 for 3PDT, 3 for pots and yes, even a small hole right above the 3PDT hole for an led]
   4) a little more space

disadvantages:

   1) limited finishing options
   2) a little harder to drill
============
heavy?  ..mine weighs 18 oz...i just weighed a similar size [5" x3"] Boss pedal and it weighs 20oz
harder to drill/cut than aluminum? ..slightly if you have the right tools...and remember they are pre-drilled...unless you want to spend even more for pre-drilled pro boxes
lots of space to work in?   a little...same as similar size pro box...these are 4 x 4 x 1.5 = 24 sq inches. 1590bb =  4.7" x 3.7" x 1.18" = 20.5 sq inches
will withstand a lot of dropping? ..possibly, but I don't think you should count on that with any enclosure...haha

[deadastronaut]

hi lucifer...checkout page 2 of the pictures thread.....they look good...

[petemoore]

  The bottom plates screwed on a very tough board, ripped thin enough so the box mount screws have access, and stay there.
  The circuit boxes can then easily be removed/swapped.
  2 rails [back row mount rail-board up a 5'' step] makes 2 tier pedalboard, power supply in the middle under the back row.
  Very sturdy, and heavy enough when standing alone to stay flat on the floor.
  Some became swiss-cheese like after many circuit variations and swaps, I still use these, but some of the circuits 'graduated' into new boxes.
  The patterned topology can be used creatively with paint and other coatings.
  One drill punchout of punchout means big hole in top or side though, clamping or very light drill pressure recommended [hard to do when the exitting drillbit edges shear into the metal with heavy torque, clamping recommended, epoxying optional. Don't put the stompswitch in a punchout.
  They are easy to find, make available quickly, and affordable.

[LucifersTrip]

hi lucifer...checkout page 2 of the pictures thread.....they look good...

you're right...not a bad idea putting the pots on the lid instead. It's a smooth surface to work on



thanx