Raco 4" x 4" x 1.5" enclosures less expensive than you think

Started by LucifersTrip, August 21, 2010, 04:48:17 AM

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stringsthings

Quote from: LucifersTrip on August 23, 2010, 02:10:46 AM
heavy?  ..mine weighs 18 oz...i just weighed a similar size [5" x3"] Boss pedal and it weighs 20oz
harder to drill/cut than aluminum? ..slightly if you have the right tools...and remember they are pre-drilled...unless you want to spend even more for pre-drilled pro boxes
lots of space to work in?   a little...same as similar size pro box...these are 4 x 4 x 1.5 = 24 sq inches. 1590bb =  4.7" x 3.7" x 1.18" = 20.5 sq inches
will withstand a lot of dropping? ..possibly, but I don't think you should count on that with any enclosure...haha

heavier when compared to a typical DIY aluminum enclosure ... ( insert "heavy metal" joke here ________  ( snicker ))

IMO, it takes more force to get through the steel than through the aluminum ... but, as you pointed out, you can use the pre-drilled holes ... this saves some wear and tear on your drill bits ....

more space for those of us older DIY'ers ( squint, squint  ;D )

... and as you state, dropping is not a good thing for pedals ... heh heh .... ( i wuz just making the point about the sturdiness factor of the box ... you can step on it without worrying about damage )

jefe

Quote from: LucifersTrip on August 23, 2010, 08:34:49 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 23, 2010, 06:53:36 AM
hi lucifer...checkout page 2 of the pictures thread.....they look good...

you're right...not a bad idea putting the pots on the lid instead. It's a smooth surface to work on



thanx

I made one pedal using this method (lid facing up), and I had no problems. I am using a drill press and nice sharp bits, though. I only use my unibits on aluminum. I was able to paint it, but I used a self-etching primer first.

I like how you can butt them right up agains each other, seems to save a lot of space. I will be using these boxes for a few more projects, no doubt.

marmora

I've always liked the idea of using Raco boxes, but it took me a while to figure out what works for me.
Instead of trying to drill through the knockouts, I use knockout plugs, which are much easier to drill.  I put the in/out and DC jacks through them.  The tops aren't too difficult to drill.  I use some oil and take my time with a drill press.
I've tried using a Dremel engraving tool to label the box with decent results.
I like that there are a quite a few different sizes of depth and width.  There are a few different covers available as well.



petemoore

  They are unmatched except for wood [lowes has woodstacks cut that quickly form sturdy ish box.
  In terms of IGOTTAHAVITNOUGH syndrome, they are waiting at the HW Store, calling you now.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

LucifersTrip

Quote from: marmora on August 23, 2010, 03:00:56 PM
I've always liked the idea of using Raco boxes, but it took me a while to figure out what works for me.
Instead of trying to drill through the knockouts, I use knockout plugs, which are much easier to drill. 

That's a great idea...can you give a link to one of the shops online that carries the plugs...

Quote
I put the in/out and DC jacks through them.  The tops aren't too difficult to drill.  I use some oil and take my time with a drill press.
I've tried using a Dremel engraving tool to label the box with decent results.
I like that there are a quite a few different sizes of depth and width.  There are a few different covers available as well.

I'll definitely check into the variations at other shops. Where I shooped, it seemed that they only had one box [4 x 4] that would be good for a pedal. Most of the others seemed a little small and the next size up was too deep & bulky.  It looked like they had one cover
per box there...

Quote



Nice...If by any chance you have any pics of the inside installation into the back plate, that'd be great.  I installed onto the other side.

thanx for the info
always think outside the box

marmora

Quote from: LucifersTrip on August 23, 2010, 04:33:24 PM
Quote from: marmora on August 23, 2010, 03:00:56 PM
I've always liked the idea of using Raco boxes, but it took me a while to figure out what works for me.
Instead of trying to drill through the knockouts, I use knockout plugs, which are much easier to drill. 

That's a great idea...can you give a link to one of the shops online that carries the plugs...

Quote
I put the in/out and DC jacks through them.  The tops aren't too difficult to drill.  I use some oil and take my time with a drill press.
I've tried using a Dremel engraving tool to label the box with decent results.
I like that there are a quite a few different sizes of depth and width.  There are a few different covers available as well.

I'll definitely check into the variations at other shops. Where I shopped, it seemed that they only had one box [4 x 4] that would be good for a pedal. Most of the others seemed a little small and the next size up was too deep & bulky.  It looked like they had one cover
per box there...

Nice...If by any chance you have any pics of the inside installation into the back plate, that'd be great.  I installed onto the other side.

thanx for the info

Here are the plugs, they come in different sizes:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productDetails.aspx?SKU=998034313

In terms of box styles and covers, I like Garvin Industries.  They're local to me, but they might supply the big stores as well.

I like the idea of installing components on the other side like you did.  It makes a lot of sense.
With mine, the way the board is installed inside depends on the depth of the enclosure.  Some have board mounted pots, so the boards are "hanging" from the pots.  On others, mainly the ones that are more shallow, I've painted the inside with a few coats of old paint so that the board doesn't short against the box.  You can use other common techniques like tape or standoffs as well.  I also used a little bit of JB Weld on the inside on the side of the knockouts that don't have the tab.  While unlikely, this is done in hopes that if the knockouts get bumped they'll stay sturdy.
All in all, it can be more work than a typical Hammond style enclosure.  You could go simple and toss a circuit in and call it a day, or your could go all out.
For me, I find the space easy to work with and its been easier to couple the pedals together when I know that the in/out jacks are going to be in just about the same place every time.

stringsthings

Quote from: mojotron on August 25, 2005, 05:22:28 PM

I've had fun with these electrical boxes...




from page 2 of the pictures thread ....

isn't that funky how the input and output jacks are on the tops?   that's very DIY  :icon_mrgreen:

jefe

Quote from: stringsthings on August 24, 2010, 01:44:57 PM
from page 2 of the pictures thread ....

isn't that funky how the input and output jacks are on the tops?   that's very DIY  :icon_mrgreen:

It actually works out quite nicely! It makes it very easy to add or remove pedals from the chain, or swap the order, while you're experimenting.

LucifersTrip

Quote

Here are the plugs, they come in different sizes:
http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productDetails.aspx?SKU=998034313

Excellent...a great option if I ever knock out a hole by accident. I didn't find the size there that I need [7/8"], but at least I
know what to look for.


Quote
In terms of box styles and covers, I like Garvin Industries.  They're local to me, but they might supply the big stores as well.

I'll definitely look into Garvin and any other brands I can find. I like variety...

Quote
I like the idea of installing components on the other side like you did.  It makes a lot of sense.
With mine, the way the board is installed inside depends on the depth of the enclosure.  Some have board mounted pots, so the boards are "hanging" from the pots.  On others, mainly the ones that are more shallow, I've painted the inside with a few coats of old paint so that the board doesn't short against the box.  You can use other common techniques like tape or standoffs as well.
I just use a bed a foam...

Quote
I also used a little bit of JB Weld on the inside on the side of the knockouts that don't have the tab.  While unlikely, this is done in hopes that if the knockouts get bumped they'll stay sturdy.
All in all, it can be more work than a typical Hammond style enclosure.  You could go simple and toss a circuit in and call it a day, or your could go all out.
For me, I find the space easy to work with and its been easier to couple the pedals together when I know that the in/out jacks are going to be in just about the same place every time.

Good points.
I do like these for 3 knob boxes since they are partially pre-drilled...I think 4 or more, I'll go the standard...or another skull

thanx
always think outside the box

stringsthings

Quote from: jefe on August 24, 2010, 02:35:59 PM

It actually works out quite nicely! It makes it very easy to add or remove pedals from the chain, or swap the order, while you're experimenting.

exactly !  :)  i think it's a really good idea ... i like it when someone has an original idea such as this ... IMO, it's really in the spirit of DIY

ViolenceOnTheRadio

I couldn't find one but has anyone seen these as open face on both sides and taking 2 cover plates?
I think that would be more ideal for opening them up and servicing if there are any issues due to the wires linking to the pots and the hassle I'm sure it creates...or excessively long leads anyway.

So far here's my cosmetic design:


Base will get painted black and I'll buff the cover plate till the chromium is completely surfaced then clear coat the entire enclosure so it never tarnishes and doesn't need repolished.
With a little window dressing, these would actually serve quite well for boutique enclosers, you just need a good drill press and sharp carbide or diamond bits.
My leads and power jack are going through the knock outs which much like my women, will require some meaty drillings :icon_lol:




tubegeek

I know I'm bumping a very old thread but I just wanted to add some info nobody has mentioned so far.

I used a Steel City octagon years ago to build the Craig Anderton Super Tone Control (great circuit!) and when I started reading this forum I saw that people were doing much more with the cheap junction boxes than I certainly had. (Thanks to those who mentioned JB WELD!!!)

What I was able to do was knock the knockouts back level with the box, using a ball-peen hammer from the inside (the top is dead easy to do, the sides are harder to manage.) I had already tried using a C-clamp to do this without much luck - the C-clamp might work better if you heated the box with a torch. I'm yet to try that.

I slathered JB WELD on the inside to keep the knockouts where I had put them. Then, a little coarse sanding and maybe some filling with JB WELD as needed, and it got beautifully shiny, and it painted up pretty well. (Grey Rustoleum primer, and then white appliance epoxy.) When my paint is dry I will snap a picture and put it up.

This method would certainly be useful in the case that Pete Moore mentioned when you snap off a knockout accidentally - they could easily be put back by this method, in fact, I think that's how I thought it up.
"The first four times, we figured it was an isolated incident." - Angry Pete

"(Chassis is not a magic garbage dump.)" - PRR

LucifersTrip

#32
thanx tubegeek for adding...here's some more info that some may not have realized, regarding how perfect the dimensions are.
--------------

yes, 1) it's heavier duty than a standard enclosure and yes, 2) it's a little deeper than a  standard enclosure which gives extra headroom (you can easily put circuits above the pots if need be) and yes, 3a) it has almost perfectly positioned pre-drilled holes for pots and a 3PDT that only need enlarging. the only holes necessary to drill from scratch are the ones for the jacks, and they are easy to center since you can position them right in the middle of the 3 knockouts on back (center if you want a DC power jack) and yes, 3b) not only are there 4 holes drilled in a diamond formation perfect for pots and the 3PDT, but there is also small (weird coincidence) pre-drilled hole drilled right above the one for the 3PDT perfect for an LED and another one opposite if you want a 4th pot or a switch.

The above most have probably realized, but also:

4) since it is a square enclosure, a 3 x 3 gridded perf fits perfectly into the corner between the pot and the 3PDT.

5) A metal  battery holder fits perfectly on one edge

6) To get to the battery (remove the bottom lid), you only have to partially (only a couple turns) loosen 2 screws and slide the lid rather that having to completely unscrew 4 screws like in a standard enclosure. You can change batteries in 20 - 30 seconds.

7) Raco makes a box with only one cutout on top which looks much cleaner

It's almost like Raco had pedal builders in mind for these!...Here's an old Sam Ash Fuzz with a couple mods. Every hole (2 pots, 2 switches, 3PDT, LED)  on the top was pre-drilled.   I was thinking of writing a how-to for these Racos, but it's just too damn easy.




always think outside the box

wavley

I actually use a few of these on my pedalboard.  One has something kinda like RG's isolated splitter, one has an isolation transformer coming back from my space echo, and one has stomp switches to turn various things on and off.  If I do any drilling it's just in the lid, two of them have hard wired cables coming out of them so I used a knock out and the complementary wire clamp.  I don't usually build pedals in them, but I use them for a lot of utility things.
New and exciting innovations in current technology!

Bone is in the fingers.

EccoHollow Art & Sound

eccohollow.bandcamp.com

iccaros

Thanks TG for bumping, I have used Break out boxes for amps, but until I saw the paint, I could not think of a way to use them for pedals.. Has a quality that screams I did this, its cool live with it..

wavley

Quote from: iccaros on January 31, 2012, 06:41:59 PM
Thanks TG for bumping, I have used Break out boxes for amps, but until I saw the paint, I could not think of a way to use them for pedals.. Has a quality that screams I did this, its cool live with it..

Funny how that is, I have boxes that I made look real nice on my board and it's my junction box utility stuff that folks wanna talk about.
New and exciting innovations in current technology!

Bone is in the fingers.

EccoHollow Art & Sound

eccohollow.bandcamp.com

tubegeek

Glad my bump was welcome.

By the way, does this forum usually like bumps to dead threads in general, or do most people prefer new threads? I get into dead threads all the time via searching....

I was very surprised at how nice my plain steel box looked, just sanded shiny smooth - I am a sucker for brushed metal anyway. I think I used 100 grit, because I was trying to grind down some little dents. it looked much smoother than I expected.
"The first four times, we figured it was an isolated incident." - Angry Pete

"(Chassis is not a magic garbage dump.)" - PRR

jefe

Quote from: tubegeek on February 01, 2012, 10:42:30 AM
Glad my bump was welcome.

By the way, does this forum usually like bumps to dead threads in general, or do most people prefer new threads? I get into dead threads all the time via searching....

I was very surprised at how nice my plain steel box looked, just sanded shiny smooth - I am a sucker for brushed metal anyway. I think I used 100 grit, because I was trying to grind down some little dents. it looked much smoother than I expected.

Looking forward to pics of your build, curious to see how it turned out. Welcome!

Speaking for myself, I much prefer when people bump old threads. There are already about 100 threads for each topic around here, why make 100 more? The only acception to that is when threads get reaaaaallllly long, then it gets kinda hard to dig through for useful info - so in that case, I guess I'd prefer a separate thread if there is some new info or a tangent to the discussion. A link back to the original thread is very handy, like "hey, I was reading >this< thread, but I had a separate question..". But that's just me.

DougH

I used to use the raco boxes but the punchouts were  not flush like the one shown above. Might have stuck with them longer if they looked like that. Mine were butt-ugly.;-) When I went back to aluminum I couldn't believe how light and small it was.;-)
"I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you."

Gordo

I've always thought that they looked as appealing as the back of my bag, but I think I'm warming up to the idea.  It would be cool to have a whole pedal board of them.  As was mentioned before "try finding THIS at Guitar Center!..."
Bust the busters
Screw the feeders
Make the healers feel the way I feel...