tiny tremoloOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

[Earthscum]

I was thinking about that idea as well, except I can't get over the volume drop issue. The other thing I was considering was  just high-cut. Maybe have to use inductor, since it has the possibility of boosting some of the signals that don't get cut (yes, passively). Only thing I have is a RS 1.5k:8R tranny, and maybe an SMD or two. May have to call up my local NTE guy and see if he has any inductors.

[Earthscum]

Has anyone tried the TLC555? That's all I have on hand at the moment (been trying to get to this, but somehow end up with another compressor build on my board at the end of the night...)

[earthtonesaudio]

For some reason I toasted my LED when I hooked it right up to the 555 timer.. I had to put a small resistor before the LED for it not to burn out.. Is that normal?

There should always be a resistor or some other form of current limiting in series with the LED, otherwise its useful life will be reduced. 

If I have the rate led in, the led in the makeshift vactrol doesn't light up at all... Like the rate one saps all the current maybe?

If you're running two LEDs in parallel, in the same direction, each one needs its own resistor.  Two resistors allows independent current adjustment for each LED.  This is because parallel paths divide current; if one path is lower resistance, it will be higher current, and "steal" current away from the other path, so only one lights up.

Alternatively: you can wire them in opposite directions and tie them to opposite supply rails like in deadastronaut's Stereo Panner.  Or, you can wire them in the same direction, in series, and use only one resistor for the entire string.

Has anyone tried the TLC555?

It should work; possibly more efficiently and quieter than the bipolar 555.

[deadastronaut]

I was thinking about that idea as well, except I can't get over the volume drop issue. The other thing I was considering was  just high-cut. Maybe have to use inductor, since it has the possibility of boosting some of the signals that don't get cut (yes, passively). Only thing I have is a RS 1.5k:8R tranny, and maybe an SMD or two. May have to call up my local NTE guy and see if he has any inductors.

hi david..
i was even looking at the colorsound inductorless wah...which i have already built (in my graveyard).and nurse quacky....i remember swapping the wah
pot for an ldr..worked a treat...be nice to incorporate that into it...to get the sweep..wah filter effect...properly.

@alex, i had no problems with the leds..even though they should really have a resistor i agree.....hmmm...anyway it works..

[pantufla]

Ah! Excellent! That fixed my buzz slash tick problem. I dunno what I was thinking, I totally misinterpreted the schematic and had the ldr/led combo wired in all wonky.

Got another problem now though... If I have the rate led in, the led in the makeshift vactrol doesn't light up at all... Like the rate one saps all the current maybe?

@pantufla. i havent built this version no....maybe perrow has??....mines still on a spare breadboard at the moment...
maybe you should look at the tiny stereo pannerversion too..dual tremolo...panning left right etc..only another vactrol and 2 resistors...
but you have the choice of 2 trems..use it as a normal trem, or stereo in the studio/live etc...i tried it, sounds great
adds a dynamic movement to the sound especially on solos, or picking stuff......check it out....rob.

i uploaded a new video today of the tiny trem and stereo version....on breadboard still
i got a bit of clicking at first attempt.....so i stuck a 1000uf across the power supply..it was close at hand...cured..bit extreme but it worked..
http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry#p/u/6/Hb0heYolcTc

thanks dude, but  i now hot to bulid  pedals from a layout only, it easier for me cos  i spend  few menutes y create a PCB from a layout. anay way im gonna try it !!

PS nice tremelo you tiny panner

[deadastronaut]

thanks , and good luck.

[wormfooduk]

I have a few 12mm ldrs are they ok for this tremolo or do i need to get some smaller ones? As far as i can see online the big ones only have a lower ambient resistanace?

[deadastronaut]

I have a few 12mm ldrs are they ok for this tremolo or do i need to get some smaller ones? As far as i can see online the big ones only have a lower ambient resistanace?

wow 12mm....ldr's . i would breadboard it first (in the dark) to see how they react...might be interesting..
might need a couple of torches lol...

personally though i would use the 5m to go with the 5m leds..then shrink wrap....good luck..

[soapamp]

Hi.. Rob

1) I built one and had sound "tick"  I use NE-555
2) Output Level is very low, the dept control also less affect when turn CW.  Do "LDR" value effect to the output level and dept control.?

[deadastronaut]

hi soapamp...i was messing around with the tiny/stereo  last week,  still breadboarded.

i cured the click (which was barely noticable unless up loud.) with a cap across the power(from pos to ground ), i grabbed a 1000uf which is overkill but i
got rid of any click, i didnt try others, just what came to hand before dashing out.....try a 100uf/220uf maybe!....

havent got time to try it myself ok.busy busy busy..... all the best rob.

[soapamp]

hi soapamp...i was messing around with the tiny/stereo  last week,  still breadboarded.

i cured the click (which was barely noticable unless up loud.) with a cap across the power(from pos to ground ), i grabbed a 1000uf which is overkill but i
got rid of any click, i didnt try others, just what came to hand before dashing out.....try a 100uf/220uf maybe!....

havent got time to try it myself ok.busy busy busy..... all the best rob.

Rob... I will try it on tomorrow.    How about LDR.?

[deadastronaut]

Hmmm..not sure on the value and response on ldrs...i just bought a few ages ago and they were ok...

these are the ones i bought. 9k-22k....

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35963&OrderCode=N53AY

hope this helps.

[john.hostetter]

Hey y'all. I'm excited to build this little guy, but I can't seem to get my LED to flash. It'll light up...but no flashing! I'm using an LM555CM from radioshack. Could that be the problem? Do I need the CMOS version?

[Earthscum]

Hey, Rob. I tried out the CSIW out, and it works (BUT I cheated... I didn't have the room to use the 555, but I had to try it for a break from my current project, so I used an MV-52 tap tempo... major clicking, at least the way I had it set up, but for kicks it worked).

I tried the original values first. Not too bad, but gets lost at faster speeds... not quite a shimmer. This is with square on/off, though.

I plugged in my bass and started using a BMP gain stage and a t-filter in feedback, parallel with the 470K. Once you find the right match of caps, it works wonderfully. I went through all the Morley Power Wah schems and tried their cap values. A couple combos I remember working really good, nice 'Q'uack to them, were  2.2n / 10n, 10n / 4.7n. Symmetrical caps didn't allow the sound to shift as much.

I did this the other day, but I kind of remember having gain issues. WHEN I get back to it, I'll keep log of my findings, lol... I'm so bad about that. I have so many unlabeled schems. But, I think it sounds to have good potential. I just want to actually try it out with the 555... it didn't click, lol. It just took up a bit more room than I comfortably had left on my board, so I opted for the shortcut to get the urge out of my system for a bit.

Oh yeah, one idea if you happen to mess with it, take the LDR to the + voltage rail, drop the lower base bias resistor, and drop the emitter resistor in the BMP gain stage. I haven't tried it yet, but I kind of remember it having a different effect on the sound when I was trying it with an envelope follower before. I can't remember what the difference was, but I do remember I switched between ground and positive with a toggle for awhile playing with it. Also, because I think you'll dig it, try the feedback in a Bazz Fuss circuit. The BF really seems to emphasize the Q nicely. I have been thinking about making a metal case for the electronics that would house them in an "extension" of the pot's housing, paint it yellow with a duck's head (gear being the beak), make an open-frame wah pedal, and call it a "QuackPot". (hey, it makes me laugh!)

[Quackzed]

  "quack,quack,quack,quack,quack,.."

[john.hostetter]

This may be redundant, but what isn't on this board? I solved my own problem, the crapshack 555 needs drastically different voltages/resistor values to get a flashing LED. Tomorrow I will post the values what got me closest to sensei deadastronaut's schemo.

[Earthscum]

Hey, john... is that the TLC one?

[deadastronaut]

Hey, Rob. I tried out the CSIW out, and it works (BUT I cheated... I didn't have the room to use the 555, but I had to try it for a break from my current project, so I used an MV-52 tap tempo... major clicking, at least the way I had it set up, but for kicks it worked).

I tried the original values first. Not too bad, but gets lost at faster speeds... not quite a shimmer. This is with square on/off, though.

I plugged in my bass and started using a BMP gain stage and a t-filter in feedback, parallel with the 470K. Once you find the right match of caps, it works wonderfully. I went through all the Morley Power Wah schems and tried their cap values. A couple combos I remember working really good, nice 'Q'uack to them, were  2.2n / 10n, 10n / 4.7n. Symmetrical caps didn't allow the sound to shift as much.

I did this the other day, but I kind of remember having gain issues. WHEN I get back to it, I'll keep log of my findings, lol... I'm so bad about that. I have so many unlabeled schems. But, I think it sounds to have good potential. I just want to actually try it out with the 555... it didn't click, lol. It just took up a bit more room than I comfortably had left on my board, so I opted for the shortcut to get the urge out of my system for a bit.

Oh yeah, one idea if you happen to mess with it, take the LDR to the + voltage rail, drop the lower base bias resistor, and drop the emitter resistor in the BMP gain stage. I haven't tried it yet, but I kind of remember it having a different effect on the sound when I was trying it with an envelope follower before. I can't remember what the difference was, but I do remember I switched between ground and positive with a toggle for awhile playing with it. Also, because I think you'll dig it, try the feedback in a Bazz Fuss circuit. The BF really seems to emphasize the Q nicely. I have been thinking about making a metal case for the electronics that would house them in an "extension" of the pot's housing, paint it yellow with a duck's head (gear being the beak), make an open-frame wah pedal, and call it a "QuackPot". (hey, it makes me laugh!)

hi david, excellent, we have got to hear that , quack quack quackiness....quackpot...

@john, i used a bog standard 555 i found in an old tub of bits... this is the writing on mine..ua555ic/f7617

[clydeshere]

Ok, so let's see we want no ticking, I'll solve that by separating signal path from circuit (signal and ground)

Sorry for the noob question but I'm still getting clicking and not sure how to do this? Separating signal path from circuit that is.
Also the 100uf cap from + to - thats just directly going from the 9 volt to ground?  or is it some were in the circuit?

[Perrow]

Ok, so let's see we want no ticking, I'll solve that by separating signal path from circuit (signal and ground)

Sorry for the noob question but I'm still getting clicking and not sure how to do this? Separating signal path from circuit that is.
Also the 100uf cap from + to - thats just directly going from the 9 volt to ground?  or is it some were in the circuit?

As for separating the signal path from the circuit path just look at the latest pcb design. Power ground is never in contact with signal ground, that should solve any ticking.

Yes, the 100uF (or greater) cap should go from + to -, that should do it as well (unless of course your ldr finds a way to tick but I'm not certain that's possible).