tiny tremoloOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

[MetalUpYerEye]

Sounds like its popping because i'm connecting my signal + with my signal ground. Pops every time the LED turns on...

I don't really know if this could be the issue, but have you considered the possibility that your LDR gets way to much light? If the resistance suddenly goes to near zero you are essentialy connecting your signal+ to your signal ground. Slide your sunglasses between the led and the LDR and see what happens, if you haven't rewired it yet that is, you've rewired this one more than most I guess 

I had thought of this but i've already tried a resistor in parallel (like a 5k with my LDR to lower the max resistance and it still pops.

I'm pretty spent on this circuit. Never has such a simple design had its foot so far up my ass.

[JRM]

I've tried the Danelectro Tremolo. True By-pass and nice but I prefer your sound clip. The Danelectro has depth and chop (hard/soft) controls plus, of course, the rate/speed control. I prefered the more chopy one and I've found pointless to play with the depth pot as things got "muddy" appart from a very limited range. At some speeds the cut was just too strong not making a nice effect. And when we desengaged the effect, the volume went up (a lot!). The clip I've heard from yours makes the effect I wanted. I've already read about the ticking issues but I haven't fully uderstood how can we manage to have different grounds when we feed the two circuits from the same power source: no matter what you do, they'll always touch each other at the baterie or psu neg terminal.

No no no no.

Why is no one understanding this?

the in/out jacks do not have to be connected to the battery or power psu terminals. they need only be connected to each other, with the ground terminating in the amp. The jack grounds are connected to each other via the aluminum enclosure, and pass right on through to be grounded down the line. This way, the power ground being utilized for the circuit doesn't ever touch the signal.

Didn't we just have a thread about this?

You're right. I've solved this yesterday at the subway on my way back home but had no opportunity to post it here. In fact it's easy: it's just to put the ldr in series with the signal wire from the in and out jack (and the depth pot if one want to). And then build the pulsing led circuit independently. A DPDT switch will enable true bypass with a led (the rate led).

[deadastronaut]

anyone good at diagrams?...would be helpful to all in future i'm sure.....

[JRM]

I can do it, but i'm not shure when. Today's night if I get lucky. I'll use the last one posted. What program do you prefer: PCB express, Eagle or Easy DIY?

[deadastronaut]

great .easy diy...thanks, i havent the time at the moment...

[Perrow]

I can do it, but i'm not shure when. Today's night if I get lucky.

If I get lucky tonight, I'll draw no bleeding schematic I'll tell you that much 

[deadastronaut]

IF... you get lucky....

[Perrow]

IF... you get lucky....

Well, you just see if I draw any schematic.








Of course, I could fake it and just not draw anything 

[deadastronaut]

no cheating.....

[Perrow]

no cheating.....

No cheating

How would I "get lucky" without cheating 

[JRM]

  you must remember that my English is not perfect! After I've post that I tought it sounded funny but didn't remember why...
It seems I got "too lucky" so I've done it this morning (it's a holiday here in Portugal). Can anybody help me to upload it? Or I can send it by e-mail to someone who can upload it

[deadastronaut]

jrm pm'd....

jrm kindly posted this to me..heres his version...i just tweaked the size...

is the wiring on the depth pot right?..looks a little strange to me...?





shouldn't it be wired more like this?..hmmmm...but then it would cut the volume wouldnt it?...

[JRM]

In fact, I had doubts about the depth pot as your schem had an odd wiring with the in and out together and the LDR and depth pot in paralel with them.
I've sent you a version with a DPDT switch, but I still don't know how should we wire the depth pot.

[Perrow]

you must remember that my English is not perfect!

No worries, neither's mine and I think that most of us let those slip from time to time (even native speakers). I just couldn't let this one slip by unnoticed.

And by the way, I think the depth pot will only work for "bleed" mode. Where you can control the amount bled away. For inline, I think even the dimmed led configuration is just a volume control, as the dark resistance is the higher resistance dimming the led will only lower the volume. But wait (and I've come to this conclusion before  ), what you could do is put the pot parallel with the ldr, that way you can control the dark resistance. You'll probably need a high resistance pot though.

Edit: grammar

[MetalUpYerEye]

I tried the depth pot both ways (dimming the LED with inline and bleed to ground on the LDR) and I never heard a really audible difference.

The switching for this has to be done on a DPDT. You can't turn the circuit on and off via the input jack without connecting the grounds and you can't switch the circuit by itself because your LDR is in the dark and won't allow any signal through...

[JRM]

Can someone try to wire the depth pot in paralel with the LDR? Try it with the higher resistance pot that you have available. I think it will work that way, making a blend between the clean (through the pot) and the "tremoled" (through the ldr) signal. I just don't have the parts to do it.

[illidan]

I can do it, but i'm not shure when. Today's night if I get lucky. I'll use the last one posted. What program do you prefer: PCB express, Eagle or Easy DIY?

i thought eagle is preferable... thanks...
and show it on page 1...

coz,, i've failed to build it...

[JRM]

Eagle is nice for pcb drawing but we already have a pcb for this circuit. Just check around page 3. As this circuit is so small it's cheaper to do it on a small stripboard.

[JRM]

I'm preparing an order of missing components so I  need to make somehing clear:

One can't use a superbright 3mm blue led as a rate indicator led at this circuit can we? I think I've read it somewhere along the 15 pages of the thread but I don't remember if that's right and why.

[Manny]

I'm preparing an order of missing components so I  need to make somehing clear:

One can't use a superbright 3mm blue led as a rate indicator led at this circuit can we? I think I've read it somewhere along the 15 pages of the thread but I don't remember if that's right and why.

Hi JRM,

I'm using a 3mm superbright for the rate LED on mine. I built it as per my hand drawn effort a few pages back, adjust the resistors as needed.
One thing to note if using that schematic is that there's a rogue ground connection that needs to be omitted, it's the one furthest to the left after the LEDs.

Hope this helps